Canada DA lover!!! i’ve got questions
how many of you boost guys removed the front cross member? is it needed?
on the 93 what exactly are the 4 injector wires to cut for the resistor box, good pics please. HTC has a good diy, but no exact location. I’ve had a few other projects and was hoping someone had pictures that could help me out.
Thanks for your help
you cannot remove the front crossmember. if you want space you can always get an aftermarket traction bar. you will gain massive space with it. btw just wondering why don’t you just get saturated injectors which don’t need the resistor box?
I had started the build on a budget and trying to continue that way, I’m okay with electric and stuff like that. I did some reading and there are guys out there not using it, The dc2 doesn’t one and they use the same 3 engine mounts as i will be??
Thanks for taking the time… I’m open to all comments, i’m not a genius all the help i can get the better for the forums and me (:-
buy an aftermarket Traction bar set up… i use the Avid racing one and it works great… pm me if your are interested i can get you one!!.. i posted pics of it in the suspension forum!!!
[QUOTE=trilib2000;2129066]I had started the build on a budget and trying to continue that way, I’m okay with electric and stuff like that. I did some reading and there are guys out there not using it, The dc2 doesn’t one and they use the same 3 engine mounts as i will be??
Thanks for taking the time… I’m open to all comments, i’m not a genius all the help i can get the better for the forums and me (:-[/QUOTE]
i dont think you understand. the dc2 has two mounting points for the lower control arms. on the da9 the control arms have one mounting point and what holds them from moving front to back is the radius rod which is mounted in the front crossmember. you cannot remove the front crossmember. if your looking for space an aftermarket traction bar is your only solution. why do you want to remove it?
The down pipe won’t fit and i thought i would have been able to drive it like that. I would rather not spend $300+ on a traction bar… I think the only option is to have the section i need removed cut and rewelded for strenth.
My crossmember wasn’t my biggest concern, Getting these Dsm’s installed so i can atleast drive it to a shop for welding. I have looked all over (net) and i’m still a little confused as to the location of the ground wire. I want to use my mutlimeter to find the power source, but the ground needs to be found 1st. Can i just use a ground off the car then insert the (RED) clip on the mutilmeter into the injector dead plug to locate the power wires?
Performance world is this weekend and i would have loved to drive the DA again.
Thanks Guys
TURBOTEG705
I can’t seem to send you anything, No e-mail or PM. I’m going out to see Zeeman shortly for a tune and i need to make sure i have my S**t together.
That bar is being sold for $300 flat through EDT which was located here in Newmarket. I think using the stock crossmember with the new welds will give me some much needed weight in the front… I have never been a wheel spinner (tires are expensive) good one’s that is.
I have a friend who works in the scrap yard and has no problem throughing me 4 steelies for cheap… This will be what i use until i get use to BOOST!!!
I heard once i go boost i will never look back at N/A
My contact info (patrick1@rogers.blackberry.net)
Thnx
I’ve been all over tha link. I have no choice but to use a circut tester or use the multimeter, either way she’s getting done this weekend, Maybe after performance world!
what do you not understand from that diagram? it does not get any clearer than that.
i guess when it’s never been done, it looks harder than it really is. I finished the project today… Yeah it was kinda easy, Blue,Brown,Yellow,Red. those are the colors i was looking for. I opened the Injector harness and followed the colours and Presto, completed.
I’m working with the welder for the crossmember.
Thanks
g2ic