searched!!! (cooling fans with half rad

ok i’'ve replaced damn near the whole cooling system…(not the heater core)…i’m running a 1/4 pass cool while driving but when i stop that when the fun begins…some times it will surge up to damn near red but lately (it’s been damn near 100 every day) it will creep up there…the funny thing is if a bring the rpms up to like 1500 while i’m @ idle the needle will come down …

yes i’m running the stock fan and yes i’ve read the “guide” more than a few times

i’m looking into fans so part two to this question is this

i assume is a heat soak issue and i need to get that 2000cfm quickly for i fuck something up…

with me running a half rad (dual core)…do i get

one 12’
one 12 and one 10’" for the front

or can i fit a 12 up front also

is anyone running a setup like that…a fan in the front and back of a half rad?

i searched and couldn’t find anything

i went to buy half rad today and the guy told me to jack the front of the car real high before filling in the rad because our b18 head is higher than the inlet of the rad and as a result of this air is trapped in the upper rad hose. he told me if i dont do this i will overheat…
maybe you could give it a try

i’m not sure about that…my rad sits somewhat higher than the oem one

come on people i need answers…i did some checking and i noticed as was under the hood when i hit the gas the speed of the fan increase thus bringing the temp gauge down…i’ve ordered a 12" and a 10" fan the 12 puts out 1550 and the 10 1400 so that should do it…the prices was good also 34.99 for the 12" and 29.99 for the 10"

do you still have the ac condenser in front of the radiator? i still have AC so i was only able to fit a 10" fan in front of the condenser on the passenger side. hope that helps.

i have 2 fans running on 1/2 dual core rad. i had the same problems. Its because my front mount is in the way. iI use a pep boys 12" hayden fan in the front and oem in the stock location.

iight cool i said fuck it and just ordered a 12 to replace the oem and a 10 to go up front…my car is a/c free from factory…yo j…did u take the rad out to do the front one or just the bumper

take radiator out install fan from the front first then i attached oem fan it dropped right in.

ok i have the fans installed the 12 does 1550 while the 10 does 1500 more then enought BUt the same thing is happening i took a temp reading @ the rad and it’s between 210 and 220 when the guage is in overheating…other than the gauge nothing else happened to make u believe u are in fact over heating…no check engine light engine still idles fine…

the gauge reads fine until i stop i go up i put the rpms @ 2000 and it goes back down…is the damn car overheating or is that gauge fucked and i need a real temp guage…but not before i fiqure out what the hell is going on…

is that an oem water pump ur using and how about ur t-stat and radiator cap.
is the cooling system properly bled?

i have a spoon t-stat and my car runs fine just before half way thats both fans running. if i dont run the puller fan my temp does go up when im sitting but when driving it goes down.

i forgot to ask how is ur fans running (how is it setup) both fans on all the time cause of the weather we have right now.

i’ve had my whole cooling system replaced by FSM except for my heater core…t-stat, water pump , headgasket…the fans are wired constant…

i couldn’t even run @ honda day after waiting to get in the fucking needle was past red but i didn’t see a diff in the engine…and it sat on red for about 10 before i could cut the car off…

this shit is pissing me off…how can other g2 run a half rad but i can’t…

o yeah i bleed the system for like 40 mins other night it ran better after that… i’ll bleed it again today and see what happens

take it back to FSM maybe they can help. I was running my car friday and needle didnt move at all. try this out when ur start the car and get all warmed up turn the heat on to see if ur getting heat inside ur car if not u need to do more bleeding. and also see how the 10inch fan is running is it pulling or pushing, cause maybe ur fans r working against each other.

my car the fan infront of the radiator is pushing and the fan on the other side is pulling

when u bled it for 40 min, did you just jack the front end up a little and take the rad cap off and let it idle?

just ran it 2 idle…i bled it again today…around 3 pm it was about 100 degrees i believe…well it held @ right before that lil coolant thing in the gauge while driving on city streets i get on the highway and it would go up depending on how fast i was going the highest i seen was almost 3/4 up …

talk about a pain in the ass this car is becoming

change your thermostat. Get either one that opens sooner, or theres a trick to drill 2 1/8th holes into the existing thermostat. That way coolant is always flowin whether open or not.

another possibility that your having all that trouble is that u have a bad ground somewhere and i kno this from first hand experience. once my ground (head to chassie) wasnt grounded good and i had all sorts or trouble (ie. stero cuts off everytime i step on the brake). Another trouble i had was that my temp gauge would go up to overheat position like past the red line. so my input is to check your grounds. bad grounds = major problems

Everything I’m about to tell you has been said before, and half of it you could figure out with a little common sense, or a haynes/chilton.

First off, don’t jack the front of the car way up in the air to get all the air out of the cooling system. That’s a completely retarded thing to do, and whoever suggests it will only be contributing positively to the world when he’s pushing daisies. Honda’s engineers are smart, they have degrees, and they’ve been building engines for a long time. Though they may not want us to fix our cars, they gave us everything we need. Including a BLEED BOLT. It’s located on the flange that the upper radiator hose connects to. All you have to do, is loosen it up, and that “trapped” air will escape.

Second, even if you don’t get all the air out, it will get pushed through the relief valve at the radiator cap and into the overflow tank, then, when the system cools down, it might get fluid from the tank if it needs any.

Lastly, if you want to run cooler engine temps for some reason, Do NOT remove your thermostat, and do not drill holes in it. If you’re going through the hassle of draining the coolant and taking the housing apart, replace the thermostat with a cooler one, say… a 160 degree jackson racing thermostat that you could purchase for $6.00 from Summit Racing.

Removing or drilling holes will cause coolant to flow through the engine constantly. That’s now how the system is designed to work.
This is how it is designed to work: While the engine is running, heat dissipates from from the head/block into the coolant that is SITTING in the engine, when it reaches the temperature of a stock thermostat (78 degrees C) it will cause the thermostat to open. Then, coolant flows from the engine to the radiator, where the COOLANT is cooled until it falls below 78 degrees again. Then the thermostat closes, and the coolant sits in the engine again until it heats back up. If you drill out the thermostat or remove it, the coolant will remain cool, and your temperature gauge will show normal temperatures, but the engine will overheat, and you won’t know.

If you’ve replaced the coolant and thermostat, and you’re still running hot. Get a new radiator. The radiators tend to corrode and become insulated such that the coolant still flows through it well, but doesn’t get cooled well.

I’m currently running a civic si radiator in my gs-r turbo. The water temps get to about 160-180 pretty quickly, and then hold at that temp. until the oil temp gets to about 180. Then the water temps will rise to 210-215 if I’m just sitting around, but they’ll run closer to 180 when I’m driving around.

good luck

umm ok maybe thats whats happening to me during driving it sitting still on the lower end of cool but once i come to a stop it shoot up to the upper then may creep as high as the edge of hot depending on how hot it is… if i’m sitting still for a long period and it’s not hell hot out it will come back down some what and if it doesn’t i just rev it some and it falls down

SIDE NOTE: i’m also dealing with sometimes during wot theres a popping sound and the engine is being held back…it doesn’t happen all the time…just wondering what it is…

bad ground?

i had the same problem and it ended up being a ground… maybe try this: when u turn the car off (down to acc or maybe with the key out) step on the brake pedal and c if it raises ne cuz i noticed that my needle shot all the way past the red line when i kept the pedal down… if this does happen and ur temp needle shoots up when your car is off im gonna have to say its a grounding problem. for me because of the bad ground i had every time i would step on the brake pedal the temp would go up and also a lot of other weird things happened (when the car was on)