after SEARCHING i cant find exactly my problem i got a 91 gs (CDN) the seat belt light stays on ALWAYS. the belt works fine but the light stays on sometimes it dims out but is always always somewhat on i think in the last 2yrs it went off once. any ideas to get it to work properly
check the connection that goes to the buckle lock thingy. there’s a connector there. try cleaning it with some electrical contact cleaner (spray). do it for both driver and passenger if both have them.
yea man i did that just now i swapped both buckles out with another set i had… no change:(
i just went to the store and notice that the light is dim as if trying to turn off and is only fully on when im no the gas… weirddddd any word?
then the connection is poor. maybe the pins are loose… or u have some damaged wiring along the harness.
ya i guess man welll thx i guess ill check it all out tomorrow
just raising an old post here. Im having the same probs on my 91 LS as well. did you fix yours already
check the connectors under the seat…
i don’t see any wire under the seat. Not sure if the USDM 1991 integra is the same as the canadian one. I do believe we have just the regular seat belt and the US spec had the Motorized passive seat belts
I’m chasing the same seatbelt light problem on a Canadian Integra - just started beeping today. Removed the front seat, then you can see the plug under the carpet. It leads into the centre parking brake housing. The plug looks intact. There seems to be a large harness going under the front of the seat too.
When the car was new (in 92), I clipped the wire at the seatbelt to stop the annoying alarm if the seatbelt wasn’t yet engaged. Haven’t heard this alarm for a lot of years 
I’m going to try this ICU fix tomorrow:
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127170&highlight=icu
My problem is intermittent, but the ICU capacitor issue is a known problem, for which I think it’s worth trying - since I’ve had a series of strange lights on during the past few years that seem to just ‘go away’ by themselves.
It also could be a poor ground for the seatbelt switch.
Graham
Removed the ICU today, had a look at the caps, and they looked OK.
Since I had bought a 100uF 25v 105o cap (5 for $1) then I decided to replace it since I had gone to the trouble of ripping out the ICU.
Under the magnifying glass, I noticed a transister right nearby that had corrosive looking material around it’s legs. Since I went to the trouble of removing the cap, then I decided to rip out the transister too, so I could clean the area of the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol.
Since it is fresh, I’ll recount some of the ICU removal procedure for somebody else.
Remove the positive lead from the battery so that nothing shorts out while you’re cranking on the wiring harness. (10mm socket)
Remove the plastic dash panel under the steering wheel - three screws - remove the coin holder by prying on the bottom corner where it pivets, allowing the bottom corner to pop out - third screw is exposed. The panel can then pull towards the back of the car to unsnap.
Remove plastic panel covering the fuse box - three plastic screws - you’ll have to shunt it around until it releases. It finally came off after pulling up and towards the back of the car…sort of…
Two 10mm bolts - one top, one bottom will release the fuse assembly.
I just pulled it away from the wall a few inches - didn’t really need to unplug anything. The ICU is in a grey plastic box piggy-backed onto the fuse assy back.
Removing the ICU from the back of the fuse holder was a little tricky - because I picked a cold winter day to do it (-10C) and I was afraid of breaking things in the cold - they seem more brittle. It was held on to the fuse block by snaps at the top & bottom. I found a standard blade screwdriver did the trick by prying slowing up and down from the exposed side, and also the snaps are at the top & bottom need tweaking too. (Keep in mind that the far side of the ICU box is ‘plugged’ into the back of the fuse assy and the screwdriver has to release the far side plug - so the box should come off ‘parallel’ so the connectors don’t get broken)
Eventually it came off, then there was a large red plug that had to be removed. It had a snap on the bottom that seemed tricky to get at - but pry a bit and the snap will release, allowing you to unplug the red plug.
Once you have the ICU box free from the car, it seems like an accomplishment. Open it up and check for corrosion with a light & magnifying glass. It does seem much easier putting everything back together. If I couldn’t replace the components myself, I’d check ebay or wreckers for another ICU.
My experience had good results so far, but the symptoms had been intermittent before the operation. I also wondered if it was a loose connection somewhere else, you certainly move connections around a bit by ripping out the ICU.
Good luck,
Graham
i can’t see it being a loose connection/poor ground. the light stays on, meaning the circuit remains closed. those issues would open the circuit and keep the light off. the switch at the buckle opens the circuit.
i’m not sure of the duties of the icu, but if one of them involves the seatbelt indicator, i’d suspect that. if not, maybe a short to voltage. which could have been caused by a poor ground
It probably was the ICU, but the schematic diagram showed the seatbelt switch going to ground. If the ground end was loose, the the seatbelt indicators would lightup whether or not the sw was closed.
Graham
i’m still not sure i follow. i’m quite new to electronics, but am interested to know how the bad ground would keep the switch closed
Hey, I’m not having the light on, but I am having the chime. It seems to happen just after the seatbelt retracts back. Sometimes it doesn’t chime until I lean foward. My seatbelts haven’t locked up since. I was reading what u guys were saying and Im just trying to figure out if I’m having a similar problem or something different. Any insite is appreciated cause Im just needing a little help here. Search a lil bit already.
The US Integras use a power seatbelt (it’s manual in Canada).
It also sounds like there is a fairly common problem with a loose plug under the driver’s seat for the USA cars. (I saw lots of this fix while searching this site) The Canadian version is a little simpler. It only has a switch on the driver’s seatbelt - not the passengers.
My issue was that the seatbelt alarm was going off, even though the seatbelt was plugged in. (Assuming the sw gets closed when the belt plugs in) If the ICU was expecting to see ‘ground’ when the switch is closed (gnd is at the end of the seatbelt alarm circuit). If the ICU doesn’t see gnd (switch is open - no seatbelt) then the alarm sounds. If the switch is closed and you remove the gnd (as in a loose gnd) then the ICU still won’t see gnd and the alarm will still sound. That’s how I see it - judging by the schematics - but I could be wrong
It appears that removing the ICU and cleaning the board DID fix my problem as everything has been working properly since the operation. I also had intermittent parking brake lights, at times that could be related to the ICU - they just disappeared and reappeared randomly. I would guess the ‘black corrosion stuff’ on the circuit board affected the operation of the ICU by conducting slightly and making a minor intermittent short.
Graham
hmmm. i would think that the switch would be closed though when the seatbelt is unbuckled, keeping the light on. and buckling it would open the circuit and turn the light off. i’ll find out about this.
You may be right, but either way the switch works, it’s a simple circuit connected to ground.
Good luck with your ride.
Graham
Thinking it over, the seatbelt switch on the Integra must be normally closed, then opened once the belt is plugged in. I snipped one of the black wires on my seatbelt switch when the car was new and the alarm was annoying. I always wear my seltbelt, but sometimes it goes on a few seconds after I start the car.
Snipping this black wire caused the alarm to silence.
Here’s an example of opening a circuit for an alarm:
A jewelry store with a burglar alarm has foil all around the outer perimeter of the store window. When a thief throws a brick through the window, it breaks the foil strip (breaks the circuit - removes the ground) and sounds the alarm. The alarm has it’s own voltage and doesn’t get it from the foil strip. The ICU has logic, many wires and must have voltage from another source - the alarm could sound by removing a ground - if it was designed that way.
OK - enough of this already