What’s the point of doing this modification if you’re adding a binding point to your suspension?
crowbars to coax the bolts on? :tsk:
What’s the point of doing this modification if you’re adding a binding point to your suspension?
crowbars to coax the bolts on? :tsk:
i didn’t need a crowbar. there is one hole that is a little wider or longer, kind of oval shaped i guess in the top of the shock tower. it all bolts up with out binding. feels like stock except now i can adjust. i had no binding problems.
I really want to do this, but something still isn’t sitting well with me…
Archon, please READ, there have been no binding problems and no knocking the body like the other 2 types of camber kits. The a-arm replacement is the best way to go.
Well my install is getting pushed back 2 weeks. Quaife still has my steering rack gears backordered, and the steering rack isn’t here either. So hopefully that stuff will be here in 2 weeks. I’ll post up as soon as I try the parts and see if we have another sucessful install (should work by the way things are looking).
I did read and have read.
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/arms/arms.html
Yes, thats for an EF, and it has already been stated that the arms have no clearance problems with the fender or anything on our DAs, no need to fabricate custom arms like that when the DC sk2 arms have been proven to fit fine, not bind, and not hit the inner fender or anything. The anchor bolts and the SPC/ingalls adjustable balljoints DO have clearance issues with some drops, however
The EF and DA arms are quite different too if you havent noticed, here is a DA arm

EF:

In all reality Im sure the Sk2 arm is a stock modified piece, so you could essentially do this to a stock DA arm as well… but if the DC arm fits, then there’s no reason to do it.
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I’m going to wait on JDM1nt2B as my guinea pig ![]()
If he succeeds, I will be willing to do this.
I did it!
with your mom :bowthank:
I will try to get some pictures as well. I just need to either get a new camera or use a friends.
Oh, on a side note. I get my MF8’s tomorrow.:hyper:
Awesome. My roomate has bronze MF-8 on his DC2.
They are one of the rarest Mugen wheels to find. Very few sets that I see around.
Silver or bronze?
bronze
Now I just need to find me some white Advan RG’s. I’m turning into a wheel whore.
Advan RG are nice wheels, I just can’t see why people pay an arm and a leg for some regular Japanese CAST wheels. Other cast wheels from reputable Japanese cpmpanies, like RAYS Gram Lights, cost way less than Advan RG wheels.
With the RGs it’s all about how good they look, which is pretty damn good.
Yeah I have always loved the way the RG’s look. The downside is the price.
^^^…and they’re cast.
yay… off topic woot…
well i got mine installed and as anticapated i need an alignment like a motherufcker
i got pictures, but i took em with my phone. and as luck would have it… my album on t-mobile is broke.
basically when installing you need to put the anchors in enough so the studs/threads poke through the shock tower. once they do you need to then put a nut on each bolt and tighten down equally.
ive got probably 300-500 miles on mine with only one problem, when i was installing the driver side i didnt tighten down the passenger side allen head bolts on the ball joint so i had to riase and fix the camber, i also had to adjust the caster as well [thank god for FR trac. bars.]
Hmmmmmm…
It sounds like the install is pretty stright forward and they do work…but I want to know more about how much this kit will mess with caster. I don’t have traction bars and I don’t plan on getting them, so I wouldn’t be able to adjust caster.
At this point, I don’t know what to do as far as a camber kit. I might just end up taking my car to get aligned with no camber kit and just having my toe put to spec.
I guess I could get anchor bolts or ball joints, but I don’t want to deal with clearance issues in the shock towers :think: