Ok, so I finally took my new Teggy on the freeway. I got up to 100mph in 4th gear and as I accelerated and reached 110mph/7000rpm my car shut down. WTF? I have a B16A with p28(?) ecu. I’ve never experienced this in any of my Hondas, so I’m kinda lost.
did the car shut down, or did 5th gear reach it’s redline/fuel cutoff…
I’ve heard of B16 transmissions limiting to 116 mph… Just swap in an LS 5th gear if that’s the case.
^ It shut down, in 4th. I didn’t even reach 5th yet. I’m running a GS tranny.
why exactly are you running a long geared tranny on it?
Because the guy who did the swap only bought the engine/ecu & used the original tranny. I don’t really race that much, plus its my daily driver, so a B16 tranny will be one of my projects once I’ve finished w/ the rest of the car.
So whats the deal with the speed limiter? How do I get rid of it? Can I go past 110mph in 5th? I didn’t even bother trying yesterday only because I wanted to see how far 4th would go.
I remember reading that JDM ECUs had a speed limiter around 112mph. I don’t know if that is your problem but it sure sounds like it.
when i had my ls motor in my car i got up to 127 and it still had 1000 more rpm’s to go. i havent finished my jdm b16 full swap. trans and all. but when i do i will test this speed limiter theory.
I Have A B16 With A Pw0 And My Car Shuts Of At 112-117 Mph. I Thinks It Just The Speed Gov. In The Ecu. I Noticed That Companys Make Chips That Take Out The Speed Gov.
^ I wonder if Jet can do it? They are one of the only companys that I would trust inside my ecu. Now p28 is obd1 right? Could I get one of those things like the 4x4 trucks have where you plug into the diagnostics port & tweak settings? Or are those obd2 only? I know I have no real reasons for going more than 110mph besides just fun, but I wanna know if I can push it to 130 :manual:
You should be able to hit 130MPH (208 Km/H). I’ve had my Teg to 220 Km/H (137MPH). I have a GS-R which has a short geared tranny…I was almost at redline in fifth.
Yeah, we’re not talkin about a usdm B17, but a jdm B16 & p28 ecu. Not exactly the same thing. Canadians… :dance: , just kiddin, my familys originally from Quebec.
130MPH huh? That will be fun when something happens. /sarcasm
yep all jdm ecu’s have a govenor of around 110.
Alright, we’ve established that there is definately a governor. How do I get rid of it? Can someone please point me towards a reputable chip, or company that can remove the speed limiter?
My suggestion would be to just get a USDM ECU.
Sorry to sound noobish but which ecu do I/should I get? Like a 99 Civic Si ecu?
That kind of depends on what wire harness you are using. If you are using your 90’ GS harness then there should be 4 extra wires run for VTEC and o2 so get an OBD0 PR3 or PW0. Have you read this:
This is a cut-n-paste from it:
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Transmission: USDM S1, Y1(cable)
Engine: 1988-1991 JDM B16A
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Transmission: JDM S1, J1, Y1, A1 (cable)
This is a non-OBD engine from 88-91 JDM vehicles (Integras, Civics). As you can plainly see, this motor has 30 more hp which is a considerable increase. Your torque takes a hit being 9lb-ft less that your B18a, but many people agree that the loss is worth it. Also, you get the high revving characteristics of a VTEC motor. This engine pretty much drops right in and is a great choice. This engine uses the non-OBD cream colored plugs (same as your current B18A1). Many first generation B16a engine packages can be purchased for $1000-$1500 depending on where you look. These motors from Japan will usually only have 40,000 miles or less on them. Everything on this motor is compatible. These are the only items of concern with this swap:
· Wiring harness-But the only difference between the two harnesses are the 3 wires for VTEC and the 2nd O2 sensor for the B16A harness. You can use your existing B18A harness, but these 4 wires need to be added (ECU pin-outs are on the last page of this editorial). Chances are is that the JDM harness is cut anyway, so you will end up using your B18A harness.
· Motor mounts-As long as this motor came from an Integra XSI, the mounts are the same. Otherwise you can use your existing B18A mounts
· Distributor-If this motor comes with a non-OBD VTEC distributor you are in good shape. It will bolt right up and plug into your existing cream plug harness. If not, you can use your B18A distributor but the leg towards the front of the car has to be cut off to allow clearance for the VTEC purge assembly. You will only have two bolts holding your distributor, but that is adequate. Everything else with the distributors are the same (cap, rotor, igniter, coil)
· ECU-Although the harness sockets are the same for both non-OBD VTEC and non-VTEC ECU’s, you will need to use a non-OBD VTEC ECU for the VTEC motor (PR3, PW0).
· Transmission-This motor should have came with one of the above transmissions. All B-series cable transmissions are interchangeable. However, if it did not come with one, I do recommend that you get a short-geared JDM S1 or Y1 cable transmission to run with the B16A motor (better for VTEC). You can get a YS1 transmission, but you will need a 92-93 clutch assembly because the input shaft splines for the 90-91 transmissions are smaller in diameter than the 92-up transmissions.
Below are things that I recommend doing while your motor is out and before you drop your B16A in:
· Replace the water pump & thermostat
· Replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner
· Replace Cap, Rotor, and Spark plugs
· Adjust valves
· Replace cam end plug
· Replace valve cover gasket and spark plug seals
· Replace fuel filter
· Replace PCV valve
I Dont Think You Will Be Able To Run A Usdm Ecu If Running Obd0.
I’m pretty sure I’m running obd1. I’ll have to e-mail the guy I bought the car from. We discussed all this & I wasn’t smart enough to take notes.
I do know for sure that its using the 90 GS harness, and only 1 o2 sensor (cuz I’m using the B18 exhaust mani).