I have a 1990 integra that is pretty much stock, and I have done the engine tests (compression, etc.) and all checked out even better than expected! So, I decided to start collecting the parts for my turbo build.
What I have/bought:
Spoolin Performance Log manifold
Spoolin Performance 2.5" AC Downpipe
Spoolin Performance Dumptube
All hardware for this stuff
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
Samco Radiator Hoses (Got a sweet deal!)
460cc injectors from a early turbo RX7 (bolt right on!)-same as DSM’s, 10 more cc’s tho
What I’m thinking I will get:
AEM/other good FPR (what do you recommend?)
Moates Ostrich EPROM emulator
ECU chipping kit from Xenocron
AEM wideband kit w/ gauge
Oil Pressure gauge
Boost gauge
Water temperature gauge
(2) slim fans (what size fans for a stock/fluidyne replacement radiator?)
Garrett T3/T4 50 or 57 trim turbo .60/.63
getting downpipe/dumptube/manifold ceramic coated
silicone couplers
T-bolt clamps
Ebay 28x6x3 intercooler (bar and plate) unless someone has something against the ebay intercoolers.
intercooler piping (can piping for free) I’m thinking 2.5" from TB-IC, and 2" from Turbo-IC
Stealthmode oil lines
Greddy type S or type RS BOV (Type S is hard to find so prolly RS)
thats what I can think of for now, I’ll be shooting for 230-250 WHP until I upgrade some internals, and if I can get more, ill go for the highest safe numbers I can get. I think that should make for a semi-quick daily driver maybe somewhere in the mid-high 13’s if I’m lucky. what do you think about my setup? anything you would change or stay away from? any advice on turbo trim? what numbers do you think it would ut down? I’ll prolly run 7 PSI for now, and then 10 after I get a new MLS headgasket and some ARP headstuds, and maybe a couple other internals. thanks!
i would run:
precision turbo and injectors if you can find good deals on them.
aeromotive fpr
i dont really trust ebay stuff so i would prolly get a name brand ic and make sure your greddy bov is real.
everything else looks good.
i have an aem fpr and aem fpr now and i have no problem with either, but you can get better items for your money. for the car im building now i have a universal aeromotive fpr which costs less than the aem unit, i suggest the rail mounted aeromotive fpr so that you don’t have to spend a bunch of money on fittings, lines, and whatnot. the aem and aeromotive rail mounted fprs cost about the same. i am actually just going to keep my aem uego gauge for my next project, i bought it when it came out because the controller is actually inside the gauge making it very simple. i decided to run 2 aem serial gauges now instead with a normal aem uego controller(no gauge). the only reason i am even keeping with aem for a wideband is because i am running aem ems. talk to xenocron about widebands when you make your order, he sells a couple brands that are both a little better than aem.
i have not ever heard a single complaint about the FMICs off of ebay. it not a super stressed part of the system, so its hard to get a bad one. you should be fine with it.
Which ad on ebay are you guys refering to or which one should I try to get off of ebay if they are soo good? By all means, if it is working for several people, then why shouldn’t it work for me? Let me know somethin’.
and the precisions are 5-bolt arent they? the downpipe is a 4-bolt pattern, so I need a garrett, or other 4-bolt. isnt the SC61 a little big for a stock LS? I was looking at the SC34 & SC50 before I got a 4-bolt DP. thanks
how about the 2" piping from turbo-intercooler, is that too small for when I decide to up the boost and make more power? should I just do 2.5 all the way around the first time so I dont have to redo it later? thanks!
how much power do you think could be made on the 2" from turbo-IC? 350WHP? also, what turbo are you running, and when do yuo get full boost by? I am leaning toward a 50 trim .60/.63 garrett because it will spool faster and probably get me to 350. if I want more than that, ill upgrade later. Does that sound like a good idea? I really want full boost before or at 4k RPM, and hold strong to redline. I also live in a place where the temperature maybe gets to 90* 3 times a year if im lucky. the rest of the year is like 60* and below.
not sure about ac yet, but i am keeping PS. 350 will be on a built motor, yeah. I think I want a .63 A/R tho because it has better top end, and like you said the .48 might die out. think 7 psi by 4000 is possible with that? Ill do 2 inch from turbo-IC and 2.5 from TB to IC for now, and see how it works, and upgrade later if i need it. thanks for your help BTW! Any more advice/suggestions is welcome! TIA
I havent even really looked where the condensor is yet, but im sure ill find it. Im assuming it is near the radiator tho, in front or back? My A/C isnt even cold any more, and like i said, i live in a place with fairly mild weather. Ill for sure think about removing it. thanks
my piping is 2.5 charge piping all around with a metal reducer welded onto it where it meets up to the turbo, 2" should be fine tho. i really like sandwich plates for oil feed, they make installation simple.
they sell both, you have to specify which you want when you order. i would personally run a sc34. for a bimmer i helped build we were going to run a sc61 with 4 bolt downpipe, pretty much every company we talked to had them in stock.
ok, thanks! I am still stuck between the SC50 and SC34 though. Im thinking the SC50 for faster spool on a street car. I think it should be good for 350 WHP as well later, and if I want more Ill just upgrade to a larger turbo. thanks!
I also just saw the specs on the SC32, and was wondering if anyone is running that turbo. It is a 54 trim, so right in the middle of the SC50 and SC34
I am just wanting to hear some first hand experiences on people who have a street setup running 7-10 psi, then some higher psi’s as well. I am just wondering if I should get the precision turbo for $750-800, the garrett t3/t4 57 trim for $575, or if I should just get a garrett GT3076r, and not worry about having to upgrade later. I like the idea of the GT3076R, but I havent really seen anyone running lower boost on them, so I’m not sure about it. It should spool wuick since it is ball bearing, and have a good top end too. Any experiences on any turbo is appreciated! thanks to everyone who has helped me out too!!!
yeah, Im thinking of just spending the $1100 now, so I dont have to upgrade later. The way I see it is:
Buy a SC34 now-$750
Buy a SC61/other bigger turbo later- $750+
thats $1500+ , or I could just get the GT3076R now, and do it right the first time. I think the .63 A/R will be great for my goals, now and later. thanks for all your help too.
yeah if you do get a precision turbo, sc61… pure sex.
