okay well i changed my plugs to bcpr6e’s because i was boggin @ 4k rpms and now i’m getting some pinging/popcorn making noise in my engine/manifold. im pretty sure its detonation but how?
I’ve been using this .bin from xenocron thats says agressive timing and such but when i used my other (ngk iridiums zf5r or w/e)it never a pinging/popcorn making noise. it would just bog around 4k rpms. i changed to a colder plug cause it says that its a necessity for FI’d cars, and now i get this…also i gapped them around .30
also, i did fill up with 93octane but i’m pretty sure that their could be still some lower octane fuel in there…could that be a problem?
should i try gapping the plugs different? if so, how much?
also i can smell fuel on the plugs, is that a sign of something other than detonation?
Please help. i want this thing safely driveable already!
well it was a .bin that i took from xenocron’s .bin folders under turboedit…
this is the bin:
WB Tune, stock B18a, precision SC34 57 trim turbo, DSM 450s, agressive timing in fuel in boost (251whp / 235tq) @ 13psi USE ONLY IN A PR4 ECU, NOT PM6!
this was the closest to my mods. stock b18a same turbo trim, dsm 450’s. I’ve even read up on other forums of other people using this same .bin and no problems @ all. I read a post that someone was using this bin and was having the same problem as me ( bogging around 4k rpms) and he changed the plugs and he said it would be fine after awhile but was told to change to colder plugs.
People have been saying that detonation sounds like shaking a marble in a tin can…some say pinging/knock, clanging metal to metal…mine really doesnt sound like that at all but im still worried…
Again it sounds like a pop noise…like someone is making popcorn in my engine…i wish they would stop lol
would it be okay to let my car idle so that maybe it could clear itself of all the lower octane it probably still has inside the tank?
i highly suggest you go get your car tuned and ditch the basemap. that sound you hear is what’s going to kill your engine in not long. so its either a couple hundred for a good tune or a couple thousand for a new engine.
again it is not a basemap…
someone has used it on their car and tuned it already and made a specific amount of horsepower/tq
i know its better for me to go to a tuner and get it tuned specifically for my car, but the .bin has my exact mods excluding the turbo which i dont think would help to create the popping noise…
i want to think the engine is misfiring so i’ll re-gap the plugs @.28 and then if that doesnt work, i’ll take the .bin and advance the timing a schmidge…
if all else fails, i’ll just take it to whipfactory cause its like 5 min from my house
again it is not a basemap…
someone has used it on their car and tuned it already and made a specific amount of horsepower/tq
i know its better for me to go to a tuner and get it tuned specifically for my car, but the .bin has my exact mods excluding the turbo which i dont think would help to create the popping noise…
i want to think the engine is misfiring so i’ll re-gap the plugs @.28 and then if that doesnt work, i’ll take the .bin and advance the timing a schmidge…
if all else fails, i’ll just take it to whipfactory cause its like 5 min from my house
do you have any idea what your doing, or what your talking about when it comes to this stuff? how much experience do you really have?
seriously stop, listen to yourself, your grabbing a tune off the internet that you think is basically tuned for your car, and you run it, with your engine pinging its ass off, and you still sit here and argue in its defense.
that “popping” noise you hear is pre detonation, its GOING to blow your engine up, only a matter of time.
and you know whats the cause of pinging? A BAD TUNE. too much ignition timing, and your going to add more because of your inexperience, which will just guarentee it blowing up, also not enough fuel causes the engine to run lean and create alot of heat which also causes predetonation.
so stop being a hard head and get your car tuned properly, or send a rod through the side of the block, either way i dont care what you do.
first of all, i appreciate the help from everyone and i mean no disrespect when i answer back
i thought there was a different term for adding more ignition…i thought retarding the ignition meant (-) and advancing ignition meant (+). correct me if im wrong. i guess i meant to retard timing. sorry just had it mixed up in my head.
experience wise…i have none…none what so ever. thats why i joined this forum so i could look up what i needed to find and if i couldnt find it, i could ask and get answers that could lead me to fixing my problem.
i didnt want to think it was detonation of any kind but thats just me being in denial… i’ve never heard what it exactly sounds like so hey i learned something new
yes i know that getting it professionally tuned is best but where’s the learning experience in that? not saying i want to experience it by blowing up my engine but yea im planning to street tune it and i just wanted something to run it on BETTER than a basemap and i just wanted to find out what the popcorn noise was and best way to correct it(besides going to professional tuner)
Well i’ll replace cap and rotor and mess with the ignition @ idle and if all else fails…im off to whipfactory
thanks again for the advice/info/help.
BTW if anyone knows someone selling a used moates burn1 rom burner, email me with the details @ kallmijonx2@hotmail.com
ok thats cool, i respect you for admitting that your a noob. and thats just fine, we were all there one time.
but honestly, after being in this for over 6 years, having multiple turbo setups, nitrous, NA builds, more motor swaps than i can remember, there is still two things i know nothing about and dont want to, Bodywork, and Tuning.
thats because there are professionals with alot more experience that can provide these services alot better than i could ever. and theres too much at stake for me to try this on my own.
just to let you know, you take that motor up to redline with just a tick too much timing and a tad to little fuel, which by the way is VERY easy to do when running a turbo setup, and you will send rods right through the side of the block.
you need to understand that the ignition timing stock is set too high even for low boost levels such as 6-8 psi. thats why SAFC’s dont work well, because they only adjust fuel not timing.
Amen, if you boost your car on a basemap you risk premature failure. Why spend money and time on your car just to cheap out on tuning. Do it right the first time bro.
i read up on the g2ic turbo guide and it says i want to set it at 12* btdc…i was guessing it wants me to retard timing 12* btdc correct? Also, that means i will be turning the distributor cap or w/e clockwise right?
u set that using a timing light and checking ur timing marks off of the timing belt and adjust the distributor if u cannot hit the mark u may need to take off the timing belt and jump it over a tooth
i changed my plugs to a step colder and it eliminated the pre ignition. but now im still getting cut off at 4k rpms.
has anyone had this problem before? some things that i think could be the culprit are-
distributor could be bad. im going to be replacing it but before i turbo’d it, the distributor would whine(i think the bearings were bad) but then i changed the battery and it went away. so maybe this is the problem.
im using a .bin off xenocrons bin directory under turboedit and when i load the bin, the vacuum only reads up to -14.7 and it has no MAP sensor selected and smaller injectors applied. should i try applying a map sensor and changing the injetors and run it like that or will adjusting those will change too the map too much and wont be the same
the map is ng48-pr4tune-19.bin
can someone take a look at it for me and let me know what they think!
You really need to put a wideband on there to know what’s going on. It sounds like you are running out of fuel to me. Same problem we had with a custoemr car, his old worn out fuel pup would run out of fuel at about 4500rpm. And it would run out FAST.
judging by the rest of the thread, i think it’s pretty safe to say he blew it up. probably right after he attempted to change the timing, and mess with the tune.
I’ve had xenocron do a basemap for me and it was running great BUT I did get it tuned right away as I wanted to make sure my engine is running healthy by just not judging on how it sounds.
It saved me a lot of headaches and for 2 years I am running the integra with no problems whatsoever.
I know that dyno tuning would cost $$$ but it was worth it having the peace of mind that everything was done right.
Nobody in the right mind would run basemap and leave it as is. Every set up is different and there are so many factors that is different on the same setup (i.e. engine health, fuel pump health, injector’s output, etc…)
I slipped in some colder plugs (in the 8 range) and bye bye pre-ignition
Picking up a wideband o2 pretty soon so i can street tune off the .bin i DL’d from the xenocron .bin dump
Having a hell of a time trying to swap out the fuel pump only cause all the damn nuts and bolts are rusted pretty bad around the gas tank so might take it to a shop once im done with my downpipe. Or just wait till summer.
Been busy wit school and work, no time for my car @ the moment.
Oh btw, i’ve got an oil pan leak and i remember’d that I broke off some of those stems where you put the bolts on. Anyone know where i can pick up some of those?
