Alright after posting a couple threads, i finally started up my baby:clap:
Its been a long as two months to finish that turbo project because:
im a noob.
lack of funds.
doing more research @ time of installation
i live in chicago area and its hella cold out here!!
school
lazyness
I was sick and tired of hearing my gf and family saying shit about my g2integ so i was like fuck the cold and get it started
Well here i am! haha excited as fuck but yea got some little quesitons here hope someone can chime in on some.
I was looking at my boost/vac gauge and it read negative vacuum. Is that suppose to happen or is there something else causing it? Fixes if any?
My cars ideling really low ( i think its because im running rich but correct me if that wouldnt be the cause and i cant tell cause i dont have a a/f gauge) but i think it could be running rich cause of the basemap i used. i took one off of xenocrons .bin directory that was listed as this:
"“WB Tune, stock B18a, precision SC34 57 trim turbo, DSM 450s, agressive timing in fuel in boost (251whp / 235tq) @ 13psi USE ONLY IN A PR4 ECU, NOT PM6!”
i know im not gonna be boosting 13psi on a stock b18a (maybe i will with the right tuning cause i know its been done before) but im pretty sure the tuning is causing the funky ideling. do you think its better for me to start with a stock .bin and then go from there or its better to run a already made .bin and start from there? I’m not sure wtf im trying to get @. i kno its mostly cause the tuning. i’ll do more reasearch on the tuning business but if you know anything let me know.
If anything i said is wrong or doesnt make any sense, please correct it so i can learn something. Yet again i would like to inform everyone i am a noob, i am not a mechanic, and this is my first project car.
no actually i didnt smell any extra gas but would i be able to with me in the car and the door open and the hood open too?
I feel like its the tuning. Can anyone set me up with a good basemap?
oh and the gauge read like 10psi of vacuum then i got scared and shut it off…then i started it back up and then read almost 15psi of vacuum. is that considered normal?
arryte then i guess the vacuum worry is okay. any other replies to my questions. i know it could be many diff. things but post something and i’ll see if it could be the culprit.
i tried the one .bin that was on xenocron’s .bin directory and it started up but idel’d funky
this is the .bin:
WB Tune, stock B18a, precision SC34 57 trim turbo, DSM 450s, agressive timing in fuel in boost (251whp / 235tq) @ 13psi USE ONLY IN A PR4 ECU, NOT PM6!
i used that .bin because it said it used a wb to tune it so hey i figured it would be decent enough to run it till i street tune it myself
it is pretty dead on with all the mods that i have. almost same turbo trim, injectors and stock motor and it was a wideband tune too! i was just kind of weary about the 13psi cause i dont have a diff. map sensor but i can always get one. or will i even need to swap out a diff. map sensor? iono lemme kno
i thought it was the .bin i used so i made one myself. but i also forgot to gap the plugs to .030 and so i did that too.
i tried to make my own basemap using turboedit and the basemapper deluxe and ii burned it into the chip and when i tried to start the car, it gave me a solid light and it didnt even start. so i might head back to the other one i used before but just boost 10psi and run it rich till i street tune it i guess.
if anyone has a .bin with the same mods stated above but @10 psi it would be helpful for me. really helpful
im hoping that me not gapping the plugs the first time was making my car idel funky but i’ll let you know how it goes.
let me know what you guys think. thanks in advance
i also live near whipfactory in aurora. i dont want to really take it there cause i’d rather do it myself but yea thats my last resort.
soo my next start will be including:
-gapped plugs at .030
-wbtuned .bin
-fingers crossed.
the peak boost the car was originally tuned for wont matter to you if your running lower boost because the maps are tuned run off boost/vac (load) and RPM.
so in theory if you dont reach 13psi your fine because the 13 psi car was tuned at 10psi since it passed that level of boost.
its pretty hard for me to explain in words what im thinking but i hope you get my drift.
your idling problem may not be from tuning but from something mechanical.
how much vacuum are you actually pulling at idle? ideally you should be at around 20in.
yes its your “set” timing, doesnt really matter too too much since the ecu can electronically change the timing.
if your misfiring up top it is definitley an ignition issue.
what kind of plugs are you running? did you step down to some colder plugs?
also i would be weary of 15 degrees of vacuum, you should be closer to 20 if not more. check your vacuum lines, especially around the map, because that is going to affect idle drastically, the ecu will see the lower vacuum and assume that your under some kind of load and add more fuel but since you dont have the CFM coming from the turbo to compensate, your running rich as fuck, and idling like shit.
firing order correct? how was your car running before you installed the turbo kit?
check your vacuum lines for cracks, pinholes, or anything… spray a little carb cleaner around different areas where the vacuum lines are, and listen for a change in idle speed…
Before it was running smooth, had an engine whine but it was because of bad battery that i just changed and it doesnt have the sound anymore with the kit on.
As i started the car today, the vacuum was @ 10-15 and it sounded like it was running better.
I dont have an o2 sensor plugged in and i saw my ecu had the light on and it was a solid light so maybe that could be the reason?
I also read that if you dont have an o2 sensor, your ecu will run your car funky and i think that could be the problem.
What im going to do is disable the o2 sensor and see how that runs without it.
i’ll keep updating this thread. thanks for all the help guys
to tegboi: how should the wires be plugged in? maybe that could be something cause i know that i might’ve plugged them in wrong ever since i installed those ngk wires w/plugs but i also did run the car and it didnt run any different so maybe i got em right i think i installed them from top left going counter clockwise: 1432. i’ll also check the hose’s for leaks. could using cheap vacuum hoses make the vacuum read all messed up? like using small hoses or something like that? i used the hose that came with the gauge and it was a clear hose and i bought some hose from menards too.
Hey everyone. Just a little update on my turbo integ.
Turns out i soldered the ecu shitty and just ordered a new one from xenocron.com( awesome service btw).
Well got the car running smooth. Vacuum runs @ 20 and everything sounds great. I still dont have my dp on so its pretty loud but anyways…
I have a question. I took my car for a short run and i tired to pull on it just to redline and my car would bog and wouldnt rev past 4k rpm’s… wth could be up with thaat?
I was also watching my boost gauge and i as hitting the throttle, i noticed i was making any boost at all. Shouldnt i be making at least some @ about 3k rpms? i was thinking a leak @ coupler or something but i checked all of them and they were all good. Any other ideas? Maybe faulty boost gauge?
Also, my turbo oil outlet was leaking oil but thats not the important part…the thing is that the oil that was dripping out was WHITE! i dont know if might’ve mixed with anything on the driveway to make it look that color but it was WHITE. What could be mixed with it? Salt? Coolant? idk.
All in all, im happy for my car. I paid about $1200 for everything(including the car XD) yea i got it for a steal. Great motor and decent body for $250 haha.
Well yea just a little more kinks to work out. If anyone lives near Aurora/Naperville area and would be able to assist, shoot me an email @ kallmijonx2@hotmail.com
The bogging could be due to misfiring. was it struggling to go anywhere above 4k? backfiring and so forth? were you able to get it tuned? the white liquid your seeing could be mix between coolant and oil. it usually looks like milky light brown in color. depending on turbo size, your not going to see anything on your gauge without a Load.
Well im not sure that its misfiring since anywhere before 4k rpms run smooth.
I think that the oil was mixed with coolant because i just remembered that i had filled up my radiator and it had just splashed all over the place and it was probably mixing with the left over coolant on the crossmember.
I’m gonna try changing the plugs and re-gapping them.
About the tune, i used a .bin off of xenocrons .bin folders under turboedit. It was an already wbo2 tuned and it had the closest mods to mine so i used that one.
I had a t3/to4e turbo .57 trim i believe. I"m pretty sure that i should be making something but hey its my first turbo car so i’ll shut my mouth haha.
Also i read on homemadeturbo that having the speedometer cable or sensor in might have something to do with it? im not sure i really didnt read much on it but i’m gonna be doing that too.
I’ll update more when i can. Thanks for the replies