Well I just got rid of my old DSM, motor lost compression in 2 cylinders, and I was tired of dumping money into it. Now that I have a DA i’m thinking of boosting but i’m being a bit of a candy ass about it, because I think i’ll pop my motor as well in the car. The car has 170,000 miles on the odometer, but everything else seems to be in good working order, i’m doing a compression test this weekend, and if I were to boost it I would run a low 8-10psi, I have done fairly cheap setups before that costs about $1,000 with the right connections, looking to get 200-230whp just to have a quick little, yet still reliable car. Although a friend of mine keeps putting the LS/VTEC idea in my head, and says he can do a minor build for the same price i’d spend on turbocharging the car. Which setup should I go for, I cannot stress enough that I need reliablity, but I want a little peep in the cars step.
your in a FI thread so of couse everybody is gunna say boost so do it and make sure you do a compression test first, oh and turbo cost less than a reliable ls/vtec so keep that in mind, but also turbo’s that cost cheap are not very reliable so i’d say f*ck it and get the turbo and a GOOD tune and you’ll be alright…for awhile
ls/vtec may not last you as long as you want it if you dont spend much more than 1000. im just saying maybe though just incase people wanna flame me. boost anywhere from 5-8psi and you should be good i guess. ls/v is alot more than just throwing a head on. turbo’s much easier
I have experienced both ls/v and turbo ls and I would highly suggest turbo ls. I have used ls/v for years with no problems, but like the others are saying, you would pay more, and get a lot less out of it.
The beauty of the turbo Ls is that you get awesome torque, and because you’re not cracking open that masterpiece of a motor, it will be dead reliable (assuming you don’t push it past 8-10 lbs daily). But what you need to keep in mind is, regardless of what you do, increasing hp accelerates wear on everything, whether its turbo or NA. Turbo ls motors are just so much bang for the buck, you can’t go wrong. They are simple, and VERY effective. I know people that run them for years with not a single problem.
Also, when it comes to turbo parts, you get what you pay for. Stay away from cheaping out on important components, you’ll just regret it and buy a better component later.
Boost that shit!!!
I have a boosted ls, I love it. @170k just becareful how much you boost and check up on the health of the motor
thanx for all the replies everyone, looks like i’m going ls turbo! I’ll take my time and do it right the first time:bow:
Once you feel boost, you never go back…If you know what you are doing 
Def boost that asap!
boost it, mileage is a concern but, more the condition of the engine.
i had 180k on the clock of my original b18a and the thing had light but present factory cross hatching from the original hone.
im also lookin to boost…wit my car at 150k miles on it, other than a compression and lead down test, what other things should i concern about replacing as far as part inside the motor b4 boosting it even if compression test pass, should i get a thicker head gasket, or is oem replacement good enough, any thing else i should i do , let me kno, thanks
Very true. I’ve done my homework but going boost requires a lot of maintenance. But for what you pay for you’ll get a bang out of it going boost rather than going N/A… Anyone know someone in here with a fast N/A car with the B18A1/b18b1 not no swaps/ls-v…
how much would going boost cost btw… im thinking greddy turbo kit in the future.
N/A = slow
Boost = not slow
easy decision.
hmm…going boost cost more then a ls-v setup. i dont know where some guys get that from. yeah sure you can get some garbage junkyard setup. but who the hell wants that?? a proper setup will be minimum 4-5k. ls-v, maybe 1500-2000 done properly.
i say ls/vtec turbo, you get the torque of an ls, but can also rev past a lousy 7000 rpm and still make power.
[QUOTE=DANinja;1837025]N/A = slow
Boost = not slow
easy decision. ;)[/QUOTE]
wow your a fucking idiot. :gtfo:
boost it…i drove my ls-t for 6 months then blew it cuz it spiked to 25psi then leaned out…but thats my fault…then i had a 210K LS sitting around and its held at 10psi for a year now…no problems at all. forget the LS-V…to me its pointless if you have a stock bottom end and cant be at 7K and above all the time
boost it run it till she is almost dead sell it and if your looking for a good all motor go for a b20b if your looking for a good turbo get a b18c or a b20z or again the b20b there all amazing and b20’s are bang for the buck ya everyone noes there walls are thinner but only a hair and if you get chrome ecu and tune it it will run amazing just do the chrome thing get some ARP rod bolts rod bearings rods and it will drive better then a b18c (type r) and for a turbo on your car i suggest a tubonetics kit, db1 turbo with greddy boost controller, apexi turbo timer,and a spearco intercooler and you will have one mean setup
LS boost FTW!!!..
:fingban:
try again.
boost has a better power/wallet ratio, has more overall potential and doesn’t need a peaky high RPM powerband to move. if you think N/A is so great, go spend 5 grand so you can run 14s and top out at 200whp.
in the beginning it MIGHT have a better ratio, ($2500 turbo kit, $400 clutch, $500 exhaust, $500 fuel system, $600 dyno tune) hmm your already at $4500 to do a reliable turbo setup that will last more than 6 months. but then you start breaking things down the road that will nickel and dime you to death, and then wearing out engines and turbos. if rebuilding your engine every other year or so after beating on it with 10-12 lbs sounds like fun to you go ahead. i mean read the original post and his problems with a turbo car.
overall potential? you max out a stock LS at 250 or so hp, and its only making that for around 1000 rpm, after that you want more power then you have to dump at LEAST $1400 to build the bottom end. and dont forget your going to have to buy a bigger turbo $800, and retune $300.
wow you really really dont know what your talking about do you? properly tuned NA engines have tourque bands as flat as a board. make good power from the VTEC changeover all the way to redline. and make plenty of torque early in the powerband.
most SFWD cars make their crazy 300-450 whp at full boost which is usually only for around 2000 rpm on a properly built/tuned engine.
who said anything about topping out at 200 wheel? again obviously you dont know what the fuck your talking about. B20VTECS make 230+wheel all day long on a VERY usable powerband and run 12’s. i mean there is a DA on this board with a stock internal I/H/E Type-R running 12’s, then drives it home with STOCK honda reliability.
oh and another thing K series make 220-240 wheel with just I/H/E and 280+ built. if you think a 280+whp NA honda is running anything more than an 11sec pass you really need to do some research before you open your mouth again.
im not knocking turbo setups at all, been down that road MANY times with different setups i mean my screen name here has turbo in it. but as ive progressed through this hobby i have found that NA is much more practical, can be just as fast if built properly, and in the end is more reliable and easier to tune. but blatently stating that NA cars are slow is ridiculous.