been reading posts about people making 250ish HP and nothing about aftermarket rods and pistons, i was wondering how much boost can the stock rods and pistons take safely and if i were to replace those how much can the stock sleeves hold?
This isnt a answer to your question but this may help you out in your decision on rods. You can get a set of eagle rods for around the same price if not cheaper than a new set of stock, eagle is a better set all around.
stock rods have been known to handle 250ish whp. some have even gotten 350+ on stock rods.
if you keep your stock rods, get some ARP rod bolts, will help that much more for high revving, and fast revving
i understand that but i was looking more towards a cheaper 14b setup… im not building an all out racecar just wanted to make my car pretty peppy because my friend has a 1999 dsm with the little t25 and it pulls all the way to 7k so i figured the bigger 14b on a smaller motor would love the 6.8k redline, i just dont know how much power i should squeeze becuase im not aiming past 225whp but i dont know if i should upgreade rods, pistons, injectors, and sleeves at that point to be reliable?
Dont hold this to me i’m sure i’m wrong but eh,
I have been told that the ls sleeves can handle about 300WHP before they begin to crack
Now that doesnt meen the first time you hit 300WHP bam its going to crack,
But for a bit of time it should
I have seen a stock ls block (everything)
he has it tuned for 250WHP and he hit 303WHP (Honda-tech)
But he aid he was just wanting to see what his setup would do,
So I know I’m not helping but eh its better than a no post
I plan on going with a small setup as well, 14B turbo cuz there everywhee in the junkyards,
Hoping for around 225WHP,
Just like you I dont want a race car but I do want something that will pull and be fun
So Im going with a full stock block aside from ARP head studs and maybe a headgasket etc… if I find them cheap
:whew: alot of talking for not much help
dont say that your post is appreciated, the more info in general the better, im starting to think ill just stay stock rods and pistons but anyone from experience can you tell me if 225whp is reliable with stock internals or no? the car is somewhat of a daily driver, thanks alot!
like i said, ARP rod bolts, they arent terribly expensive, and it’s better safe than sorry…why put a rod through your block because you didn’t feel like spending a few bucks on some high quality bolts? be safe…also look at your rod and crank bearings, and your rings. get everything tested and looked at, especially if you will be taking the motor out and apart…do the right thing, your motor will thank you.
yah, do you good check on everything,
It’s sorta like you going to the doctor before you play a sport,
Get everything check up on,
I dont even think arp stud would be needed
(But yes safe than sorry)
Normally the B18’s dont have bad headlift under low boost
Now I have heard that the D16’s (ex. D16y8 etc…)
Have bad headlift even under low boost, :danger:
But yes, I also will be installing headstuds as wel as cleaning everything up while the head is off,
Thanks, Later
[B]EDIT: Your talking about ARP Rod bolts, I was thing headstuds,
My bad, Hmm I’m unsure if ARP Rod volts are needed,
But while its off I guess why not,[/B]
the stock b18a1 rod bolts are a weak point on our engine. it is not recommended to boost a b18a1 with stock rod bolts, and high RPM is a bad idea as well…the bolts are old, had a lot of heat to them, a lot of stress…just get the bolts you wont regret it, and you can’t lose…there is no reason to NOT get them.
eh that and I’m not taking my engine out,
I dont have the time to pull my engine and put it back in,
That Why I was only going to install arp headstuds,
Anyway, I have seen many many many boosted tegs with stock blocks which would mean to me that they didnt ever replace the rod bolts
But I mean, If I had the time I guess I would, bu then why wouldnt you just replace other stuff while your at it/
the weak point in the B-series engine is the cast pistons. they will go before anything else.
that’s why most people swap out the cast pistons for some nice forged ones. but rod bolts are so not hard to change, you life the car, take off oil pan, take off girdle, and do the little swap…sure it’s a tight fit but it takes patience…i might do it soon, along with some better pistons…
The motor I’m building now is on stock rods and pistons. The rods have been shot-peened and ARP rob bolts added. The pistons have been ceramic coated by HPC. This should provide a bit of added security but even still I’m not planning on going over 300hp, probably not over 250hp. It’s all about the tuning. Some have run 500hp on stock bottom end.
so you think 8 psi on a 14b with arp rod bolts and head studs would be reliable for a daily driver?
sorry guys but one more quick question the more and more i think about it i kinda want to put new pistons and rods in now that i got a winter beater (1988 mazda 626 5spd - FREE) if i were to put new pistons and rods how much psi could i push then until the sleeves would go and with a block guard how muchx psi can i push?