Now here’s what’s odd. It’s not something that happens while driving. It’s coming from the right and left, while I back up or pull forward while turning right or left. But it’s only if I’m barley moving. It’s not a CV noise, both axles are new and it happened before I switched axles.
I’ve done new outer tie rod ends, lower ball joints, sway bar end links, etc. It’s lowered on Pro-S’s, with a Skunk2 upper camber kit as well.
Could it be bad radius rod/arm bushings? I wouldn’t think inner tie rods would cause a sound if they were going bad, plus then didn’t seem to have any play really, nor the wheel bearings.
I’ll be replacing the front and rear, lower control arm bushings in the next two days, so that will slowly widdle down my list of things to do.
But any ideas what that clunking could be coming from? Again, hardly moving, and only if I turn to the left or right.
best bet is to just get the car up on jack stands and take an hour to check every subframe and mounting bolt under your car…
I was having odd clunk issues that I couldn’t figure out… had my mmechanic stumped too… with lowered cars you tend to pick up more vibration from rougher roads which in turn ttends to loosen bolts underneath all the time. I make it a habit to check stuff every month or so.
Anyways, my “Clunk” was in the form of 2 bolts at the back of the transmission that connect to a brace that attaches above the PS rack to the firewall (17mm ones to be exact) that had come loose and was causing my tranny to thump against the brace. it cause a clunk in 1st gear and sometimes 2nd and also while making turns.
My next clunks were all my suspension bolts underneath coming loose… Anything loose I have been craning back down and mmakin sure it is gutentight…hahaha
Mine is when I’m hardly moving, like 1 mile per hour. And only when I turn the wheel almost all the way.
Rear T Bracket is nice and secure. I just swapped in a B16 a few months ago. And as I said, it’s not going forward or backwards, it’s turning at very low speeds, aka a crawl.
[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2265580]Mine is when I’m hardly moving, like 1 mile per hour. And only when I turn the wheel almost all the way.
Rear T Bracket is nice and secure. I just swapped in a B16 a few months ago. And as I said, it’s not going forward or backwards, it’s turning at very low speeds, aka a crawl.[/QUOTE]
I would check all your sway bar and end link bushings. I had a weird pop when I drove on uneven surfaces and when pulling in and out my driveway. I was already replacing all my bushings. I had also happened to be installing my end link bushings within a few days and when I looked at stock bushings they were falling apart. Changed them out and it’s fixed.
[QUOTE=djzachtyler;2265372]best bet is to just get the car up on jack stands and take an hour to check every subframe and mounting bolt under your car…
I was having odd clunk issues that I couldn’t figure out… had my mmechanic stumped too… with lowered cars you tend to pick up more vibration from rougher roads which in turn ttends to loosen bolts underneath all the time. I make it a habit to check stuff every month or so.
Anyways, my “Clunk” was in the form of 2 bolts at the back of the transmission that connect to a brace that attaches above the PS rack to the firewall (17mm ones to be exact) that had come loose and was causing my tranny to thump against the brace. it cause a clunk in 1st gear and sometimes 2nd and also while making turns.
My next clunks were all my suspension bolts underneath coming loose… Anything loose I have been craning back down and mmakin sure it is gutentight…hahaha[/QUOTE]
What did you to to get to these bolts? Did you have to go underneath the car? because im having sounds happen whenever im in those two gears when i make turns or just begin moving from a light.
If your transmission is moving. It seems like your shift knob would be jerking around as well seeing it’s attached to the transmission. Might be something to observe when your driving.
I had to put the car up on jack stands and scoot under with a creeper and get all the way to the back of the engine bay. ( I have a 4" drop so that is quite a crawl at 6" 210 haha) I was on a mission to make sure every damn bolt underneath was tightened up.
ANyways these bolts are about dead center in the rear of the compartment at the back of the left edge of the tranny casing where all the bolts for the cover pate that go around the case (engine side) are. you cannot miss em they are pretty big and ther are 2 of em.
I’ll be putting my car up on jack stands again tomorrow to swap out a faulty lower radiator hose, so I’ll try to snap a couple pics for yall & post em up tomorrow evening. Probably about time to check all the subframe & other bolts under there to make sure they are all good n tight again anyways
I thought about those. The passenger side seemed to have some play, but the bolt is nice and tight. So I’m thinking the bushings might be toast.
Already did new sway bar end links, tie rod ends, and lower ball joints. I just bought a 20ton press, so I’ll be doing all my bushings when I get a chance next.
Every try kicking your tires? I changed my end links, strut rod bushings and I still heard a chunk noise so I was mad and I kicked my tire and it cave in so I already knew from the start it was my camber kit. All four bolts came loose .__.
Camber kit is fine. Brand new Skunk2. New: Sway bar endlinks, tie rod ends, lower ball joints, camber kit, axles, etc. All bolts are tight. Wheels have no play, so bearings aren’t to blame, plus the sound doesn’t even fit.
This sound will not happen if I accelerate, but sometines when I brake hard in reverse while moving slow so I can hear the noise. And mainly when I turn to full lock in either forward or reverse.
[QUOTE=djzachtyler;2265796]I had to put the car up on jack stands and scoot under with a creeper and get all the way to the back of the engine bay. ( I have a 4" drop so that is quite a crawl at 6" 210 haha) I was on a mission to make sure every damn bolt underneath was tightened up.
ANyways these bolts are about dead center in the rear of the compartment at the back of the left edge of the tranny casing where all the bolts for the cover pate that go around the case (engine side) are. you cannot miss em they are pretty big and ther are 2 of em.
I’ll be putting my car up on jack stands again tomorrow to swap out a faulty lower radiator hose, so I’ll try to snap a couple pics for yall & post em up tomorrow evening. Probably about time to check all the subframe & other bolts under there to make sure they are all good n tight again anyways :)[/QUOTE]
Check your lower control arm bushing, unscrew your lower bolt joint and take it off and twist your lower control arm it could have some play. Mines are out but i plan on changing them when I have a 2 ton press
Fixed mine, turns out the two bolts that were holding the header onto the little bracket right before the o2 sensor plug disappeared. Put two back on and now no more noises when i first start of in 1st and change into second. If you have figured it out already though, tell us what it was!
I do actually, but have reached my upload limit on the site? I have put maybe 5 pictures total up here, but will get some new ones with my DSLR Nikon this weekend while I do an oil change and load em to FB to put links in here for ya.
I think that is the “exhaust manifold stay” The bracket I was mentioning is just to the right and connects the transmission case to the firewall.
I actually had to replace the exhaust manifold stay on my ride (it was broke in 2 and welded together) and the other (transmission) bracket stopped coming loose.
Like I said tho I’ll pst pics this weekend on my photobucket and link em here.
[QUOTE=djzachtyler;2265372]my “Clunk” was in the form of 2 bolts at the back of the transmission that connect to a brace that attaches above the PS rack to the firewall (17mm ones to be exact) that had come loose and was causing my tranny to thump against the brace. it cause a clunk in 1st gear and sometimes 2nd and also while making turns.
[/QUOTE]
lol i was looking at my mount yesterday and noticed that those two bolt pulled a houdini and vanished some time back
YAHTZEE! It was the front LCA bushings that were the culprit. (that or the radius rod bushings)
Replaced them all with my Prothane/ES setup, and feels AMAZING! Still have to do my steering rack bushings, but the clunking is gone! =D
Though the subframe LCA bolt on the passengers side was seized and the head stripped. Now the way I did this, was the only way I was able. Short of getting a whole new subframe. The bushing collar was seized on the LCA subframe bolt, so some of you can imagine how this might go. So…
Grinded the stripped bolt head off. Positioned the LCA down. Now the bolt is still threaded into the welded nut on the mounting point, and the collar is seized on the bolt. Anyway, I had to deep breath push the LCA towards the back of the car to bend the metal around the welded on nut at an angle. Enough so I could slide the LCA off the bolt since the bushing was completely torn. Once off, I slowly bent the metal back into it’s original location. (Measured and all that good stuff) Then cut the bolt/collar in half so I could get at it with vice grips and get it out. Now the angle of the welded nut was at a slight angle, and the bolt would cross thread. And since I couldn’t get a tap in there anyway to clean up the threads, I just broke off the welded nut, and just used another OE bolt, and a separate nut on the other end.
Not exactly what I would call “ideal”, though it worked, drives 100%, nothing weird and handles amazing. Eventually I may get a new subframe, but for now, meh it works.
