[i]This isnt a “I would like…” or “In the future Im going to build…” This is reality and Im buying a whole custom kit reguardless, I just want some input thats all; I have professionals helping me installing this. (And no xenocron, not crpturbo; hes just making my manifold because I respect his work) [/i]
Some of you know Ive been building this b16 FOREVER… Long story short its finished and I need to buy the turbo part of the motor now; Here is my setup:
b16
polish/balanced crank
civic type r crank pulley
acl bearnings
eagle rods w/arp fasteners
cp 9:1 81.5mm pistons
itr water pump
itr oil pump
Race Eng. Block Guard
AEBS Head Studs
port polish head
supertech valves (dished top, black nitrate coding)
supertech retainers
supertech springs
gsr cams
skunk2 cam gears
obd0-obd1 conversion harness
p28 ecu
uBerdata
RevHard Intake manifold
AEM Rail
My ideal turbo setup:
CRPTurbo custom manifold
3’’ DP w/e cut out
880s (peak and hold)
Aeromotive FPR
2.5’’ in IC piping 3’’ out
IC size ?x?
Greddy RS BO
TiAL 44mm WG or TurboSmart?
GT25 or GT30 BB Garrett
Did I forget anything?
Goal: 400+ whp on 14psi on pump gas
Ideas, thoughts, brands, ANYTHING please help me out. I have to finalize this by this weekend so I can order my shit.
Oh I thought you didnt like CRPTurbo.com… I posted about him in the past and someone didnt like him. I thought you tuned a car that had one of his manifolds on it and you told me you hated it in a post… I must have made a mistake… someone else will probably shine on this post and well find out then… anyhow
Money is not an object… the object is to make at least 400whp with the RIGHT parts. Since i have a 1.6 i figured a GT turbo would help me spool a lot quicker… Wrong idea? Thanks xenocron
The turboshop that is helping me install it think the gt turbos are a waste and I should just get a t3/t4… I said no way! Makes me wonder if its worth the extra cash in the end…
I posted on bh site and searched around a bit on there and found out some good shit.
I hear tons of people say the CTR pulley is garbage but I had mine balanced with the rotating assembly and until I see proof that its horrible I dont wanna take it off. I dont see anything wrong with it. Its OEM, I dont understand why its so bad, we can thread jack this thread and talk about it Im not worried about it.
Ive also been told an OEM oil pump wont go bad unless you starve it of oil. Im sure they go out at SOME point in time but for the most part dont starve it and your good to go.
The 2871rs is the dual ball bearing, if you went with the “r”(single) you will save like 500 bones. I made 407whp on 12psi on an SC61 with an “s” housing, so obviously imma reccomend that to you.
As far as turbosmart and tial…I use the tial 44 on my 2JZ car, but turbosmart only makes A 38 AND A 48! They do have nice products though, and their 38 is 3/4in shorter than the tial which will prevent you from needing an elbow, or having any hood clearance issues.
Oh and fuck that CTR pulley…I have 2 all motor cars at the shop right now with very similar setups, and they both broke oil pump gears. And guess what, they both had that ctr pulley. Coinicidence? I think not at this point. Save weight on the flywheel side if anything.
Well Im no dyno expert but your goal of 400whp with that setup might require a bit more than 14psi…Even the sweetest b18c’s Ive seen around here on 14psi are usually in the 350-380 whp field.Might be tough with the b16.Although you have some respectable mods 14 might not get you there.18psi would be more realistic.Ok this is where you tell me to shut up :loser:
I dont tell anyone to shut up. Im just recording these boards that Ive posted on to try and get a good understanding to what to expect. I suppose either way 18psi would be fine for 9:1, it just has to be tuned correctly.
I didnt think my ctr pulley was a bad idea because i had it balanced with the whole rotating assembly… Im starting to worry now.
A dico potato IMO needs 20+psi to make 400whp. they are pretty small. for your application, the gt3071r might be a better choice than the gt28rs. all GT series with the “r” are dual ball bearing. they don’t even make GT series turbo’s with a single ball bearing. these turbo’s are going to run you over the $1100 mark. well worth the $$$ though.
No track times, right after it was turboed I had the third surgery on my arm and didnt make it out this season… Yet anyways.
The turbo system was built and fabbed by turbotechnologyinc.com where I work. Pictures of the manifold are on our site and was CUSTOM made to our chassis. Id say your looking at around 5k for the turbo setup. Im not sure how much cheaper it would be a second time around since there are jigs now for the kit.
The motor was fully built by myself. Id say Im into my Motor and turbo stuff like 8k-10k. Im very happy with it. Please feel free to call me with any questions.
