Thought I’d put up a few pics of my car from the summer and get some opinions on my upcoming project since this will be the first motor I build.
I’ve had the original bone stock LS boosted at 7psi (450 inj, T25 Turbo, 2.5" Turbo Back) for three years now and I’ve been beating the crap out of it and it’s time to rebuild for safety and reliability reasons to continue enjoying the setup. Anyway… Does anyone see anything wrong with this build or have any recommendations? Thanks
Water Pump
Rings
Rod Bearings
Timing Belt
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Bolts
Front Main Seal
Oil Pump
Cam Seals
Intake Gasket
Exhaust Gasket
Head Gasket
Walbro Fuel Pump
Valve Seals etc.
Planning to retune on a Dyno (Crome) @ 9PSI Hoping for 220whp and adding an Mfactory LSD to my LS tranny
yes, what youve included is a pretty good overhaul, missing some gaskets tho, id do the distributor o-ring (if its still OEM) and valve cover gasket as well.
Car looks great! I say upgrade the turbo set-up. Go bigger, and with that mild rebuild you’re doing, you can easily break 300whp. Member redtegra on here, is running a GT28RS with just headstuds and a new OEM head gasket and he’s over 300 on a B18A. I have a good friend that has a Pfab ramhorn kit on with a T3/T4, B18B, and he’s been sitting at 360 with just head studs and gasket for over a year now. So that should tell you something about the limits of stock internals
That engine bay is damn clean. I like it, very nice.
Do a leak down test first and see how your engine is now after you’ve had the turbo for a while. If it’s still in great shape, I’d change the following:
-Water Pump
-Timing Belt
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
-Upgraded Injectors
-ARP head bolts
-GSR oil pump
-Upgrade the turbo as MrPenny mentioned
And you’ll be good to go. If the leak down test comes back bad, then I’d rebuild with more of the parts you mentioned, but if the engine is running strong I’d just do what I mentioned, it’s good maintenence and you also will get more power.
OMG Its Weasel - Thanks both have been done recently
integranewbie - The charge pipe is a cai for a 99-00 Civic Si you could get one ebay if anyone is interested…little secret I discovered
I’m keeping the T25 turbo setup for a couple reasons…For one I already know everything fits and works well and the turbo itself is still very new. I think the power band is phenomenal for the LS, instant spool up and power almost to the end of the very low LS redline. Once you go changing the turbo it sets off a chain reaction of pieces to replace that may break my budegt so I’m keeping what I got. Two, this is a road racing inspired car. I think 200-240 whp is a well balanced range for a DA with an LSD. My main goal is being able to put the car’s power to the ground and have usable power, so while I do know I get get more and it’s sooo tempting I think it make it less fun to drive…I’m going to stick with my goal and setup and try to tweak out balance/reliability/drivability, but I appreciate the input. I would be willing to turn up the boost to 10psi if I can keep that goal. Any thoughts on that??
IntegraC - The compression was damn good, but the leak down was kinda iffy for the rings to continue boosting. This is my baby, but I enjoy beating on my car hard on and off the track, so I’m looking for reliability and simplicity. Questions:
Will the GSR/Type R oil pump swap directly to the ls timing belt??
vtec oil pump is bolt on. however your lower timing belt cover will not fit anymore you’ll need a b18b obd2 lower cover. i took my timin belt cover completely off. as for the pcv take it all out and get a little breather setup.
Okay that’s what I thought about the Oil Pump…I will prob remove all the timing covers as well.
SO Any opinion on my PCV setup? I am currently running a line from pcv to closed catch can and then a line to pre turbo inlet. The valve cover just has a breather. I have done research and know that this is a bad setup…in fact I am getting blow by and see oil around the breather. I can modify my catch any way necessary, but I can’t seem to tell what is the best setup for turbo…vented or pressurized??
i ran my breather to the catch can to then to atmosphere.
one of the guys on here recommends putting a vacumn pump on the pipes this will reduce crank pressure and its possible you could see a power increase from it
the best catch can setup (proven) is the 1 gallon vented catch can with two lines going to the valve cover and two going to the block. its what i run and zero problems.
Okay that actually makes perfect sense…it will look like this (below)…My only suspicion is that it will it work with a smaller vented catch can and smaller lines as well for my setup, so I think I will modify my closed one and build my own.
^^ no you just dont understand how it’s hooked up. pcv is removed. black box is removed and the whole is plugged. you then remove the two big allen plugs on the back of the block where two of your hoses connect to. then the other two on the valve cover. the pic that jdecks posted is different since it’s an h series and they dont have ports on the back of the block so they put four hoses on the valve cover only. you can put four on a b also but its useless unless your lapping and constantly in high rev’s or just insane power. btw vacuum pumps have been tested on imports and they just added weight for nothing. they work on v8’s but inline 4’s are a different story. on honda-tech theres about 10 days worth of reading on catch can setups and guys who have tested the crankcase pressure with gauges and etc.
[QUOTE=jdecks23;2079544]Okay that actually makes perfect sense…it will look like this (below)…My only suspicion is that it will it work with a smaller vented catch can and smaller lines as well for my setup, so I think I will modify my closed one and build my own.
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you wont want to run smaller lines the smallest you’ll want to run is -10an.
yeh i understand how it works, and yeh i understand how its diff to the h series but if u were to do the same on the h series to ur b is excessive especially for the application in this case. my setup is very similar to this but i have just used the stock pcv and crank breather, with just a can attached then to atmosphere
