Anyone know of a good alternative other than es and prothane… I had exprience with es and didn’t like it too much, looked into hardrace and pic but they didn’t have a kit for our cars.
oem.
freaking expensive! I was looking for Hard rubber. I’ve already started buying some oem though, guess I’ll just slowly piece it together.
OEM really aren’t that expensive when you start to look at the other options like Mugen. If you want hard rubber you’ll have to piece the kit together yourself:
FRONT
- UCA: EF/DA/DC are all different OEM part numbers, so likely you’ll need a DA specific one. (this is currently something I’m looking into)
- LCA: EF/DA are the same
REAR
- LCA: DA/DC are the same part number so you can use the EG/DC Hardrace application
- Trailing arm bushings: Either get OEM for the DA, or use EF bushings inside the old sleeves from your DA bushings, or get DC trailing arms and use DC bushings
Those are the main bushings, there are others but I haven’t looked into those because, for instance, my camber kit prevented the need to replace the rear UCA bushings.
Thanks colin, I emailed PICperformance/Hardrace and see if they can piece me a kit. Maybe it’ll be cheaper than buying it separately. I wanted to change it all at once while doing my struts but guess it can wait. What camber kit are you using by the way.
only main bushing you should be concerned about are your trailing arm bushings and your front lower control arm bushings. everything else can wait. rear lower control arm bushings, you can buy aftermarket lower control arms.
I’m not a fan of the bushing in the aftermarket LCA I rather swap out bushing in the oem LCA and paint them when its out…Yeah I ordered some oem trailing arms already. Im not too concern with other bushing in the suspension area I do want to swap in ITR linkages though.
I’d rely on Pic/hardrace as little as possible and try to do it yourself. It’s rare when someone will work that closely with you to figure out what you need. A friend and I have been working on figuring that stuff out recently and it’s really not that bad to do your own sleuthing. www.acuraautomotiveparts.org is your best friend when doing stuff like this.
Don’t forget to “clock” your RTA bushings when you install them.
Oh, and I believe my rear UCA’s are Ingalls. I forget though since they came on the shell when I bought it and I decided to ditch the setup on my chassis.
Yeah I been using hondaunlimited to look at part numbers. PIC actually gave me the information you first posted. I haven’t replied though, Just probably going to go all oem.!
Nice car by the way I was looking through your flickr what spring rates are those gc? srry for the 100 ?'s haha Have konis on the way going to try them on h&R race springs maybe swap for GC later.
you mines well change the shift linkage bushings too. you will feel a difference
Yeah that can wait I want ITR shift linkage heard it feels better. Transmission is coming down for a rebuild soon, so that will go along with that project.
I just emailed Suja Motoring because I could not find any listings for urethatne radius arm rod bushings. Don’t buy any of the kits, they wont help. They leave out integral parts. Just piece it together yourself using an oem Acura diagram.
The most important pieces to replace on the race car are the radius rod bushings, front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings and rear upper and lower control arm bushings. These are the culprits of the most suspension deflection (bad).
If it’s a race car then I’d skip rubber and poly and go straight to spherical bearings.
Progress Sphericals: http://www.progressauto.com/products/productID/626
Kingpin Sphericals (supposed to be better than Progress): http://kingpinmachine.com/store/products/ef-civicda-integra-front-radius-rod-bearings/
You may want to double check the part number but the best I can tell the Energy Suspension radius rod p/n is: 16.7104
[QUOTE=Colin;2249510]If it’s a race car then I’d skip rubber and poly and go straight to spherical bearings.
Progress Sphericals: http://www.progressauto.com/products/productID/626
Kingpin Sphericals (supposed to be better than Progress): http://kingpinmachine.com/store/products/ef-civicda-integra-front-radius-rod-bearings/
You may want to double check the part number but the best I can tell the Energy Suspension radius rod p/n is: 16.7104[/QUOTE]
All troof! Thanks for the P/N. Couldn’t find a pic of the “strut rod bushing”
Just got off the phone with PIC Performance. They make a complete rubber kit that is stiffer than stock. They are finalizing the dimensions of a few pieces, and should be ready in a month or so. At $225 a kit, the ease of installation makes this a very attractive option. Not to mention it should keep you legal in autox stock calsses. 
If this comes to fruition, I’m in for a kit. If I like it, I’ll get one for the other DA.
[QUOTE=OUBob;2250211]Just got off the phone with PIC Performance. They make a complete rubber kit that is stiffer than stock. They are finalizing the dimensions of a few pieces, and should be ready in a month or so. At $225 a kit, the ease of installation makes this a very attractive option. Not to mention it should keep you legal in autox stock calsses.
If this comes to fruition, I’m in for a kit. If I like it, I’ll get one for the other DA.[/QUOTE]
That is EXCELLENT news! Too bad I need to finish my project before that, and I’ve already bought everything for my install. I guess down the road it wouldn’t be too much work to upgrade the front LCA’s on my car to the bushings from PIC, but then again it might not be worth it. The OEM ones are probably fine for the most part.
[QUOTE=Onekraz3;2246977]Yeah I been using hondaunlimited to look at part numbers. PIC actually gave me the information you first posted. I haven’t replied though, Just probably going to go all oem.!
Nice car by the way I was looking through your flickr what spring rates are those gc? srry for the 100 ?'s haha Have konis on the way going to try them on h&R race springs maybe swap for GC later.[/QUOTE]
Just realized I missed this from weeks ago…
I’m currently running 700f/600r. It’s probably more spring rate than I need, but it seems to be working fine. I think I’m getting close to being ready to start changing my rates. I purposefully chose a front bias setup so it’d be more prone to understeer in the beginning as I learned the car on the track. I’m becoming more comfortable so I think it’ll be soon that I’ll want to move to an even spring rate front and rear, then eventually to a stiffer rear rate. I was thinking I’d pick up another set of 600lb springs and throw those in the front to see how it handled, then when I’m comfortable and if it seems like a good idea, put the 700’s in the rear. Or keep the 700’s up front and go even stiffer in the rear. I really won’t know until I get a lot more seat time and start testing everything out.
(keep in mind the car is a track car, I would not be using these same rates or methodology if the car were a daily or even a weekend cruiser)
The individual I spoke with at PIC made it sound like they had everything except for trailing arm bushings and front uca studs/bushings. You might be able to get a control arm kit now.
So they have DA specific front LCA bushings? Because the EF and EG/DC aren’t the same. Or at least part numbers on the OEM bushings are not the same. Whereas part numbers for the DA and EG/DC rear LCA bushings are the same.
I have recently found out that the Hardrace EG/DC front UCA bushings will work on a DA. You will just have to modify the “strap” connecting them. I should have some more info once I start installing all these parts.
All PIC told me was that they had a kit together, and were finalizing the sizes of the uca and rear trailing arm bushings. I’d assume stiffness is the difference for the ef part #. Sometimes I just dont know why there is a different part #. I have a 4dr hood on my 2dr. Different part #s, cant tell a difference.
Great info. Keep us updated.