you be bumpin ugk, swishahouse and screwed up click out there? nice build though
Thanks for taking the time to post up your build. I love posts like this and look forward to each installment. Grats on the house and props to you for taking life by the horns.
Thanks buddy.
you be bumpin ugk, swishahouse and screwed up click out there? nice build though
:umno: I actually hate that shit. I was born and raised in Cali…I just live in Texas now. 
Thanks for the comments though.
Anyways, I was feeling motivated today and decided to work on clearing more stuff out of the engine bay. I got the brake hard lines removed, the master cylinder removed, PS module deleted. If I’m still feeling motivated in a hour or so, I’ll head on over to Harbor Freight and pick up the stuff I need to extend my starter wires so I can complete the fuse box relocation. I’ll be sure to take some more pics of the procedure.
you are making good progress! keep us posted:rockon:
I just purchased these from Xenocron:
Theyre available here on G2IC. Check the thread:
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160636
Thanks bro!
Nice build brotha!
If I can help with any other parts let me know 
I was actually checking out the OBD conversion stuff as well as the fule pump/ injector package. I’ll let you know.:salute:
Ordered a few more parts today:
Mfactory magnetic drain plug.
Full-Race VTEC conversion kit
Hastings piston rings
ARP head studs
Next week will be a good week.
New parts in from KTeller. Super fast shipping. 
ARP Headstuds
Hastings piston rings OS +.25
Ok. Today was a pretty big day for me. My motor mounts cane in and they look fucking dope. I also went to the machine shop to pick up my block. Work done included hot tank, bore and hone (+.25), LS rods were reconditioned w/ ARP rod bolts installed, the P30’s were pressed onto the rods, and my crank was polished. Here are some pics:
Block looking nice
Pistons pressed on with ARP bolts
Crank polished up
The mounts I got from Xenocron. Thanks again bro. I can’t wait to install them.
The price tag for the machine work. Not too shabby.
My favorite board. RIP Chomp. I miss you.
Well, I called Full Race and they said that my VTEC conversion kit wouldnt be shipped for 2 more weeks. Blah. I’m not in a rush. Afterall, this is Synsei’s slow Build.:roll:
Until next time…
Nice progress
So which machine shop did you end up bringing your block to? Those prices aren’t bad. And where did you buy the P30 slugs from bro? I might be following in your footsteps.:rockon:
Nice progress
So which machine shop did you end up bringing your block to? Those prices aren’t bad. And where did you buy the P30 slugs from bro? I might be following in your footsteps.
Sup Vincent. I took the block to South Austin Machine Shop. I don’t know if I’d take my head there, but I’m pretty satisfied with the work they did on my block. The P30’s I found on Ebay after searching for a long time. Thanks for stopping by bro! LSV in your future?
nah, just a rebuilt b17a. Thanks for the info.
OG NINTENDO FTW!!!
OG NINTENDO FTW!!!
FTMFW!!! even. Hell yeah brosama. That milk crate is full of OG Nintendo games. The PS2 is on the shelf above it.
Well I got an email from Full Race saying that my VTEC conversion kit shipped. I guess the guy I spoke to on the phone didnt know what he was talking about. Anyways, after assembling my block, cleaning up the head, and piecing it all together, I should be cooking with fish grease. :werd:
Quick question. I’m building my block and went to my local parts store for some supplies. Having never used Plastigauge before, I simply asked the guy behind the counter for some. What he brought me looked like everything I’d seen on HT so I didnt think twice about it. After putting my main caps on and torqing it down, I realized that the clearances shown on the Plastigauge package werent even the clearances I was needing. Then when I started looking around on here again, I noticed most people had green Plastigauge while mine was blue (this may explain why everything looked so tight). So my question is this: Between the different colors of Plastigauge, are the crush characteristics different? For example, is blue softer than say the green (making it crush more?). Or is all Plastigauge the same and only the reference chart on the package changes? Thanks in advance.
-Craig
The crush characteristics of the different colors are the same, but they have different clearance ranges. Green is most popular range for Hondas. Below is the clearence ranges for the different colors:
green: .001 to .003" (.025 to .076mm)
red: .002 to .006" (.051 to .152mm)
blue: .004 to .009" (.102 to .229)
yellow: .009 to .020" (.23 to .51mm)
Thanks Vinny. I got it figured out.
Today I got the crank installed in the block. I was wanting to install the pistons, but the machine shop torqued the shit out of the rod bolts and I don’t own a table clamp. Anyways, heres a few pics of the festivities.
Here’s a picture of the block after painting. I went with a VHT color called Flat Aluminum. Came out pretty good.
Also cleaned up the oil and water pumps
Preparing to check oil clearances
Bearings go in
Bearings installed
Main caps cleaned
Bearings installed in the main caps
The Plastigauge Mistake
Thrust bearings with assembly lube
Incorrect and correct
Clearance specs. Cross your fingers.
Main cap bolts soaking in oil
Looking good so far
Score!
Assembly lube on the bearings
Final torquing of the crank assembly
Done.
I’m loving this thread. Great education–Know Your Internals!