I would prolly go with a t3/t4, like above mentioned the b16 revs higher and you wont make power past 5300 with a dsm turbo on it, turbo may stop making power earlier, because the b16 heads flow more.
cmon now guys the coolant passages are there for a reason, why shouldn’t you use them. Gt 35rs come with them too i suppose you want to run that on just oil too right? use common sense.
yeah a b18 is the only motor i would put a t25 on, for a b16 something alittle bigger that carries closer to your redline…
for the coolant lines…it doesnt matter really IMO but its just my experience and opinion…i been boosted for a while and having a proper working oil line setup seems like a more important item. I had coolant lines and they were just a pain, one more thing to break and leak and god forbid your fan shuts off your engine will want to overheat in about a second, i didnt really notice that the turbo housing was any cooler either… full race turbos dont usually have coolant lines i see no reason a tiny t25 needs one…and it has nothing to do with the seals it just runs through the housing
damn homie nice way to thread jack.its cool though.lol
haha yeah, sorry bro, i figured i could avoid all the flaming this way 
but i got my answer so /jack
im running the same set up my friend. the turbo will max out at 250hp. heres a list of every dsm turbo and what it will hold. http://forums.evolutionm.net/archive/index.php/t-197890.html
personally i believe you can make a little more than 250 just i wouldnt push it. the highest i would ever run boost wise is 17 or 18lbs. and no you wont always been in boost lol. the eclipses are .2L bigger and they arent ever in boost unless your foot is over half way to the floor. maybe a little less idk i only drove the eclipse 3 times personally 2 of which it was fucked up. as for spool time, look for it to spool around 2500 and be maxed out (18psi) around 3000 to 3500 but u also carry boost the whole way to redline. factory redline on the 2g eclipse and the 2g teggies are almost the same. i never once had the turbo “cut off” or out boost itself in my car or the eclipse and i have pulled it to redline in both cars. personally i believe the turbo is great for torque numbers as it will spool fast and stay at full boost. however you will suffer on the top end side of things as it does not have the flow capacity of say a 16g or a 20g or a 50trim. but look on the bright side, you can find dsm turbos relatively cheap so upgrading is not hard. if your looking for more top end, just go get the 16g, its a huge step up from the t25. and if ur not looking to go that crazy get a 14b off of a 1st gen.
[QUOTE=Sunny_Tk;1810914]im sorry if im hyjacking your thread but people on this board are very angry about creating new threads…
anyways i got a similar deal, its a T25 turbo off a CA18DET 180sx. planing on running the stock 7psi. got a b18a, and i might go with my bros b18b head in the summer. would this be a decent turbo for 200whp too?[/QUOTE]
the t25 from a 180 is a completely different t25 than the eclipse. the nissan version is garrett based where as mitsu builds their own turbos. the nissan t25 is smaller and runs less boost than a mitsu t25. nissan runs 7lbs, mitsu with a factory turbo and wastegate set up runs 11.
i would deffinately run the water lines. its not hard to do, very cheap. u can go to slowboyrracing.com and get a set of 2g dsm water lines for $45 and then go to advanced auto or something and get some rubber water lines and run them on the side of the tb that accepts the water hose. get a metal t, run one side to the tb, one to the water intake on the turbo and one to the water return on the turbo.
[QUOTE=teggyracer18;1814784]I do believe that the dsm turbos get most of the cooling from the coolant(theres alot more coolant then oil in the cartridge) Plus if you run all the lines you really don’t need to worry about a turbo timer.
My setup in the race season of 06 was this:
b18a1 motor remachined and bored .20 over all new OEM parts.
8lb flywhell,stage 3 clutch and pressure plate.
ss autochrome turbo manifold(rewelded)
16g turbo
custom downpipe with open dumptube
russell fittings and stainless braided line
dsm 450cc injectors
walbro 250lph fuel pump
obx 12:1 fmu
synapse missing link
homemade boost controller
solid front transmission mount( made me wheel hop more then anything)
apexi safc2
ebay big front mount
Everything else at the time was stock and my best time was 13.1@ 107-109 and a 2.0 60’ time. This was at 10-11psi
Race season of 07 things changed alot
same turbo kit except i ran a big 16g
Fully built block
still stock ls head
vortech 4:1 fmu
aem obd-0 plug and play
act 2900 clutch and 12 lb flywheel
dsm 450cc injectors
I had this setup tuned from 12 to 20 psi and turning the boost up didn’t really give to much horsepower. It wouldnt make anymore power after 5000rpm. Never had a chance to run it at the track this season due to 2 injectors failing on me at 20psi.[/QUOTE]
boo fmu, i hate those fucking things. u are so much better off just getting a ecu chipped and tuned. plus u will completely take out the need for an safc
again people are getting their t25’s mixed up. there is a difference between the two make sure you know which t25 you have, nissan or mitsu. easy way to tell is how the pipe from the compressor to the intercooler starts. nissan uses a 3bolt triangle style while mitsus t25 uses a clamp style. 14b and 16g’s use a 2bolt oval shapped tube.
why bump an old post you could have put everything you said in one post also.
the mitsu t25 is the same size as the first gen 180sx/silvia but it doesnt flow as good. all other nissan t25’s are bigger and flow better
they are deffinately not the same size my man. go get a 180sx t25 and a mitsu eclipse t25, the eclipse one is bigger and physically hold one in each hand, ull noticed a difference. and from the factory the eclipse turbo is set at 11psi where as the nissan t25 is set at 7.
nissan t25
mitsu t25
if anything they are the same size with but the nissan t25 is definately the smaller in my eyes.
The one from the ca18det is about the same size and flows about the same amount of air as the Mitsu T25 but it also has a bigger comp housing so it pulls better up top.
But all the other Nissan T25 turbos are bigger and out flow it. You cant look at physical size you have to look at the flow charts.
Theres a reason its set at 11psi for the mitsu they have alot of back pressure were nissan motors dont Ive owned a sr20 and that turbo maxed out at about 270 at just over 12psi. the ca18det T25 max out at 240 at 12psi. the mitsu T25 maxs out at 240 also but it has to be pushed harder to do so even on a honda thats why most honda heads that use the mitsu turbos run the 14b it flows alot better
Remember there is over 5 different Nissan T25 turbos which one it that in the pic zenki or chouki 180sx? from the way the manifold is and the way the turbo is clocked I think I know which one it is.
So what is the conclusion of this? I picked up a t3 off a manual t-bird which is around the same size so im wondering if its daily driveable. I like the idea of quick spool but boosting all the time would just kill me on gas. Does anyone know from personal experience how this runs on the freeway and around town.
You can stay out of boost with all most any turbo its really not that hard. its really all round street turbo spools up quick in the lower rpm band and falls off up top. A customer Made 245whp on a stock b20
Just a note, the 60/63 T3 off a manual t-bird, while still not huge, is substantially bigger than a t25 as discussed in this thread. Even a 42/48 T3 is a bit larger than the t25s being talked about.
With that being said I still believe the t-bird turbo is an excellent choice (better the t25s infact) for a stock b series motor and will produce both a relatively quick spool and pretty strong top end. :rockon: