Did you ever track down your slight bounce at idle?
I’m having this problem now (idle isn’t too fast, just a little rough) and am slowly going through the steps Ben outlines at the beginning of this post.
I’ve replaced all the vacuum lines, and cleaned the IACV, but it is unchanged.
When the IACV is disconnected (as outlined in the Helms) I have the idle set at about 900 and it is solid. When I plug it back in and start it back up though, it starts around 900, dips to about 650 and will dip down a little.
If I apply pressure to the brake pedal it jumps back up to 900 though, so I assume mine is some kind of vacuum leak somewhere. I don’t think it is the booster though, brakes are solid and don’t slowly go to the floor.
I noticed my check valve on the dashpot isn’t quite up to snuff, so I’m going to try that before checking out the FITV. Then replace the gasket on the IACV…I’ll find that sucker.
wait a second…
with the car warm i took the intake off and put my finger over the bottom hole, it IS sucking but the idle doesnt drop when i put my finger over it
Great Tips but - do not adjust FITV as describe
No offended to the editor of this poste. I found it most usefull and it has worked for me. Except instruction step 5 with the FITV, when I screwed the white bit all the way in, the car choked and would not goes high idle when it cold. I took it out and unscrew the white bit 3-4 turn from when it is tight
and the car starts beaut. It is now iddling near perfect and has reduced the shaking to 80%.
no offense taken.
Ben
ben,
just to calrify, you can bypass running the coolant line through the FITV correct. So you can just run it straight to IACV. Gonna replace the hoses around that area so just double checking.
thanks
brent
I’ve had this kind of problems for two years and I just be patience with it. Now I’m getting crazy with this kind of problem… first during the cold weather time at first start it’ll stay at 1500 to warm up then after it’s done warming up it starts to bounce from 800 to 2000 for a few stops and it’ll stop there. I just ingore it for two years… but now it’s summer time and when I turn on the a/c the idle just drops under 500 and starts to stall, so I had to press on some gas to keep it up 800 which was pain in the ass at every stop. Anyway I looked at Ben’s write up and did all of it and I blocked both holes it dies? When I block the bottom hole it was sucking hard and it didn’t die so I blocked the other one at the same time it just shuts off? So is it possible that my IACV is bad? I’m planning to buy a brand new ones from the dealer for 138 dollars, will that help all of my problems? any help would be greatly appreicated. By the way I’ve replaced one IACV from the junkyard and no help.
Alan
i finished my b18b swap last week and upon the first start up i got the fluctuating idle., i refilled the coolant it was still there. so i cleaned the mesh on the iacv, and turned the screw in the Fitv and now the idle stop fluctuating!! GOOD TIPS HERE!! good stuff guys! :bowdown:
Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you! Finally after 3 weeks! Nothing was working but now its fixed. You rock for posting this
:rockon:
Absolute Superb Information ! ! !
[B]Hello,
Obviously I have the same problem every one has been having. I have had this problem two times and both times on Honda Del Sol’s. Talk about aggravating pulling up to a light with a hot car with shitty idle. Any ways first time it was the bolts on my throttle body. Now I have tried almost every thing, I swapped out my IACV. I cleaned it which did not help, sprayed carb cleaner all over and did not find a vacume leak. I pulled off my FITV and tried to unscrew the back which the screw wound up breaking. I will be back with an update on my situation. Ben your post was more then most helpful, I just learned about the FITV yesterday and now I found your post which certainly solidified my thoughts. up,down,up,down,up,down. My girl friend was like oh no not again, LOL talk about aggravating and embarrassing. Well thanks for the great info and feed back from every one who was lucky enough to stumble across this post.
P.S. Soon to be 1995 Honda Del Sol Si DOHC B18C1 Vtec :D[/B]
Still idling bad…out of ideas…
Hi guys, I’m having this same idling problem like everyone else except that it doesn’t shoot up really high, about (500 - 1000 rpm) when the engine is about warming up, temperature guage at about 1/4 up. It stays pretty stable when the engine is warmed up though. Did almost everything suggested in the first post and some additional stuff, would be pretty confused without some guide. These are all the things I’ve done so far:
-cleaned and checked IACV
-replaced fuel filter
-replaced timing belt and checked timing
-replace FIV…$80!!
-bled coolant
-checked vacuum hoses
-replace PCV valve
-cleaned air filter
The new Fast idle thermo valve is still sucking some air at operating temperature, don’t know why…can it be defective or is it supposed to still be drawing a little air? I’m also thinking of replacing the TB and intake gasket as well as all the vacuum hoses just to be sure I’m not having a vacuum leak somewhere. Currently running at about 18 inHg when at operating temperature which is kinda at the low end of the specs. Can anybody please tell me if I’m missing something here, any suggestion is greatly apperciated. Thanks.
im very worried. i tried looking everywhere for help and i read all g2ic threads related but nothing has helped me. i have a 90 teg with ls/vtec swap on my car with b16 head and intake manifold. i have two cel codes and no mechanic knows how to help me not even acura. i have a code 14 (iacv) and code 20 (electronic load sensor). my idle used to be very high like 1500 bouncing all time but i took out my ficv and screwd the white thing in because it was very loose and i thought that did it but now i have an idle of 750 that drops every 5 seconds or so to like 50 and almost shuts off and goes back up to 750. also my dash lights dim when this happens. i also removed the iacv and cleaned with carb cleaner, still same problems. please help me since this is causing my car to run horrible and uncomfortable. any help greatly appreciated.
try Sea Foam, you can get it at Napa. that fixes a lot of erradic idle problems that have to do with a searching idle…
where can i get sea foam and how do i use it.
MAKE SURE U HAVE YOUR PCV VALVE HOOKED UP! …that was my problem
What intake manifold is this???HELP
i have a 93 civic hb and i just did a 93 integra ls swap, and i think i have a vacuum leak around my tb because my tb doesnt seem to be the right one for my intake manifold. can anyone tell me what intake manifold this is so i can get the right throttle body? no one seems to kno and i cant find any like mine. 
[QUOTE=civichatch6989]i have a 93 civic hb and i just did a 93 integra ls swap, and i think i have a vacuum leak around my tb because my tb doesnt seem to be the right one for my intake manifold. can anyone tell me what intake manifold this is so i can get the right throttle body? no one seems to kno and i cant find any like mine.QUOTE]
Your intake manifold looks like it’s off a Gen2 B16A & your TB looks like it’s a Gen1 B16A item.
You’ll have some idle issues if this is the case, as with the Gen1 Intake manifold, the FITV is mounted on the intake manifold itself (below the TB) and on the Gen2 items, the FITV is mounted on the bottom of the TB.
So you’re not going to have an FITV at all. (remember, I’m basing this on the assumption that you have a G2 IM & G1 TB)
Check out the pics below to see what I mean:
If you like, I’ll take a pic of my Gen2 IM & post it up so you can compare it to yours.
I also notice that the small spigot that the MAP sensor is usually connected to currently has nothing hooked up to it (small brass coloured pipe on the front of your TB) tried blocking this up? - Personally, I’d hook the MAP sensor up to this (as that’s where it should be) and the big one that has black fuel line should go to your carbon canister for emissions… If you’ve pullde the carbno canister off, just block this off.
let me give this good thread a bump. It fixed me idel problem. I did a engine swap in b16asir II engine swap into my 92/ls and have been having a bad idel problem. I swapped my old throttle body from my b18a engine and thought it matched up right to my b16a intake mainfold. TUrns out that at the bottom was a nice size gap. So after a week of looking everywhere for a answer to my idel problem I just read this thread and spreaded intake cleaner to check for leaks and I discovered my stupied mistake.
IS this thread gets a bump for informing me on a nice way to cheak for leaks.
well this problem just started yesterday and its driving me crazy. i have a stock b18b on boost and w/e i do with the idle screw and safc. i cant git my car to idle nice n smooth again. on a cold start ill let it idle and warm up but after like 2-3 min the rpms would drop and die and at stop signs and lights i have to keep the rpms at around 2k to keep it from droping and dying. imma pick up some carb cleaner and try to clean the IACV and see if that would cure my problem since tomarrow im getting my car tuned on the dyno and want to get sum good #s and runs in. if you had this problem before…help another brotha out mannnn
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