INFO: At room temperature, the wax in the enclosure is small enough so that the needle is pressed in by the spring loaded valve, thus letting in air through the ring-cap and increasing the idle. The needle sticks out 6mm. As the temperature of the coolant rises to about 150F, the wax expands and the needle eventually protrudes to about 11mm at around 220F. The force of the needle on the spring keeps the valve closed. If the ring-cap is loose, there is not enough force to keep the valve closed thus letting in air and raising the idle when not necessary. These are the steps needed to tighten the ring-cap:
[Disconnect916 informed us that he was able to just remove the plate and tighten the cap with his fingers]
The FITV is held in by three #10 bolts. Remove the bolts to release the valve from the manifold. You do not need to remove the two coolant lines unless you do not have enough room to do the next step.
The plate is held on with two #8 bolts. Remove the bolts to get the cap off. The plate will fall easily so be sure to catch it.
Now you have access to the cream colored ring-cap inside. What you want to do is tighten it. There are 2 slits along the ring. Unless you have a short screwdriver or tool that is 1" wide, you need to use two screwdrivers in unison to tighten it.
Reattach the plate and bolt the valve back on to finish the adjustment. If you removed the coolant lines, be sure to refill the coolant and bleed the system.
thanks. you wouldnt believe it but i was so intent on trying to fix my idle problem i had that wax thing in a boiling pot of water, with a turkey thermometer, logging the lengths of the pin with a ruler and leak testing the ring-cap. i still get suction when warm :shrug:
Originally posted by Blizzard does this solve a bouncing idle during warmup?
sorry cant think… need sleep… more beer. signs point to yes. the iacv would account for idle after warming up.
Originally posted by Xirphoid
XDeep, can you get some pics for us where this is on the IM? [/B]
its actually right below the throttle body. the spigot (nipple) is facing towards the front with that S shaped hose thats a bitch to reach.
Originally posted by tegboi
[B]so this would cause the idle to be higher then normal, when not needed… hummmm…
sounds like it’s my problem right now…
will try that in a few… [/B]
ya the wax would not expand, letting extra air in after its warmed up. however, i dont think there is a sensor that lets the ecu know exactly what is letting that air in. now since the iacv is doing its business and idle speed is set, i would think a readjusted idle screw would mask it. hmm…
ok when cold the ecu runs in open loop (stored maps) and the FIV lets in more air. when warm the rpms drop and the o2 sensor is used in closed loop mode and the ecu tries to maintain target idle. but if the FIV is not fully closed the idle is raised. does the ecu correct it down? does it correct it down stable or intermittently like a pcv leak? i dunno.
Originally posted by tegboi also… can u show us how you tigthen them please?
knida hard for me to see how to tighten it with 2 flathead screw drivers…
oh just imagine a giant screw. a tiny flathead wont be able to turn it, so you would need to use two next to eachother to simulate a wider flathead. or use the back of a spoon or something…
I went through the steps of this post and also cleaned out my iacv. Now the bouncing idle that has lingered for over a year is finally gone. Hopefully she passes smog and then it is time to install the B17 that has been chillin in the garage for too long. It is time for “Enron” to be on the road again.
My idle fluctuated too until I came across Ben Ogle’s thread and this one as well. I’ve had the my DA for about 2 months now and the idle has been fluctuating since I bought it. It did the same for the previous owner and he said that all that it need to be fixed was a new IACV.
Well $300 dollars later, it kept doing the same thing. I finally got enough time to get into the FITV today and I screwed in the white plastic thing about 20 minutes ago and it’s now running like a champ!
Hello Friends, this is my first post. Please apologyze my Bad English, I am Argentinien and live in Buenos Aires.
My CRX 91 DOHC JDM (engine similar to ZC but NOT THE SAME, even both are D16A9), hunts severely from 1500-2500 when warm.
Led on ecu blinks showing code 14, means EACV problem. I have measured resistance on EACV terminals and it is ok (11 volts aprox), same for continuity between terminals and ground and there is not.
I have cleaned it following this thread instructions, lots of black grease came from inside the valve.
When I disconnect the EACV terminal with the engine running, IDLE drops to 1000 but it still hunts.
I tried all the above techniques when my car was having hunting idle…I did all the following:
Replaced CAP and Rotor.
Replaced Spark plug wires
Replaced FUel Filter
The one that FINALLY helped was cleaning out the IM w/ a carb cleaner.
I popped off my CAI and massaged the throttle while I sprayed carb cleaner into the IM. I did this for about 4-5 minutes (or 1/2 a of the spray). Then turned it off and it fixed my hunting idle! I also ran some fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank as well (Lucas stuff). This fixed my idle problem!
ok, thanks for your advise, but what brakes my mind is why the ECU led is blinking with a 14 code error.
The valve clicks when I put battery voltage into terminals. And Idle should NOT hunt when I disconnect it. (As far as I know).