Teg Tip: Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) adjustment/removal/internals

INFORMATION Articles / Teg Tips
21

good tip fixed my idle thanks :up: :rockon:

22

Thank God

Just wanted to say first of all im new to the sire and also i ad a very big problem with my car idleing real high when it was cold could not figure out what was wrong with it forever for over a year and a hlaf and seen that someone posted about the fast idle valveā€¦well i took mine apart illustraighted in the pics above and it fixed my problemā€¦couldnt believe it.Thanks for the tip.

23

then the hot coolant spilling on me was worth it :stuck_out_tongue: donā€™t forget to change the 15 year old hoses while you have a chance as well. for the tight bending ones, just make the hose long and do a big loop, or buy the oem pre-formed ones.

24

Adjusting the FITV white cap

I have a 1991 Acura Integra and after reading this post I wanted to check my FITV even though the car idles fine when cold. I noticed the white cap was not fully tight so I tighten it. After installing everything back, I started the engine and noticed the car idled very low about 500rpm. But after the engine warmed up the idle raised back up to normal around 800rpm. I shut off engine and waited hours for engine to cool again. I restarting the engine and it still idled very low until it warmed up then idles back up to around 800rpm. This tells me my Idle Air Control Valve is working after the Fast Idle Thermo Valve closed due to coolant warming up and activating the built-in thermostat. So I decided to take the FITV off and untighten the white cap back about 1 and 3/4 full turn. After reinstalling it, the car now started up fine. Idle was around 1500rpm and slowly decreased to around 800rpm after it warmed up.
So in my conclusion, the white cap controls the amount of idle at cold engine starts. I recommend people not to tighten the white cap completely. But leave the cap loose about 1 3/4 full turn. Itā€™s possible that if the built-in thermostat is stuck, the white cap is too loose, a leak in one of the coolant hoses, or even air bubbles trapped in the cooling system, the engine would have similar idle problems. Keeping the white cap loose around 1 3/4 full turn away from tight works for my 1991 Integra. Good luck to all.

25

Greetings, I am new to the board and wanted to say, wassup.

I donā€™t drive a 'teg, but Iā€™m powered by one, is that fair enough? :giggle:

Anyways, my motor is a 94 JDM B18B Auto with 96 GSR Tranny. I didnā€™t know the B18B was an auto as it wa shipped without a transmission but I got it for $750 so whatever. When I got it, it ran great and has never given me any trouble. Until recentlyā€¦

Here is what I want you guys to seeā€¦

Now, is it possible to take off the two plate screws without taking off the FITV? It looks like a biznotch to get to and I just want to make sure that when its off, I can get to the white screw that Iā€™m hearing aboutā€¦

Thanks for all your help!

PS - Hereā€™s a pic of the ride

26

Thanks to the original poster!
Fixed my boucing idle that mysteriously started early last week.

27

does anyone else have to adjust theirs every 2-3 months? Iā€™ll tighten mine down and itā€™ll solve the problem. Then a few months later my crazy up and down idle comes back. So i adjust it again, and boom it fixes it.

So does anyone else have to do something similar?

28

seems like you can do it while still on the car if you can reach it.

sounds like you need some loctite or something.

29

:werd: but where would i put it?

30

i forget how it looks up close, but i assume on the side of the cap wherever the threads are. i dont think coolant runs over it (?), but dabbing some rtv silicone or hondabond sounds like an option too.

31

yeah, i used some rtv silicone on the threads, weā€™ll see what happens :up:

32

I just adjusted mine and I agree with stwebx, I believe the white screw cap should be about 1 3/4 turns to 2 turns from fully screwed in, unless you want your car to idle at 1000 to 1500 when cold. I think if itā€™s screwed all the way in, the control valve inside doesnā€™t let enough air in to cold idle properly, thus defeating the purpose of the valve. I have mine open about 2 1/2 to 3 turns from closed as Iā€™m writing this, and the idle is at about 1000 when warmed up and fluctuates a bit. Once I get time to screw it in the correct amount, Iā€™ll post up exactly how far out it is. Now like his car, mine is a 91, and it may be different from the 92-93 due to the fact the 92-93s donā€™t have that valve on the front center of the manifold.

33

hm if possible, i would rather control the idle via the idle adjustment screw. donā€™t forget to reset the ecu properly.

34

I agree with the idle being adjusted with the idle adjustment screw, but whatā€™s happening on mine is the valve doesnā€™t close all the way when warmed up, causing a leak. So Iā€™m just talking about adjusting the fast idle valve properly so it wonā€™t interfere with the other systems that take over when it is warmed up.

35

fixed mine too. i love this site

36

I am thinking i got this same problem.

What does everyoneā€™s idle at/jump from and to when the FITV was at fault.

This morning i jumped in the car to head to school, i did notice it idled awful high but didnt put much thought to it, it was idling right at 2000 maybe a tad under. After i got to school i went in and had lunch and came back to my car and the idle was jumping from 1500-2250.

does this sound the same as the FITV problems? Iā€™ll mess around with my car in the shop tommorow.

37

I just pulled mine apart and the cream part was completely unscrewed and just fell out.

now i canā€™t get the thing to screw in at all.

edit: got it in and fixed it right up :rockon:

38

hmm i think i found my idle problem sourceā€¦ i was wondering if a loose FITV would cause my car not to shift out of first til it was warmed up?

39

wats up im new to g2ic i had my car for 6 months now a 90 gs 2 door 5 speed if it helps just a month ago i noticed my idleing was very bad heres what happens i start the car let it warm up it seems stable but when i put my lights on the idle raises and when i turn the lights off it raises even more and same thing when i hit the brakes highr highr n higher i did research tried screwing the white plastic thing in the fitv didnt work , i checked vaccums , then i cleaned iacv , in the end i put 2 metal plates behind the fitv and iacv it fixed the headlight thing but now it fluxuates and almost stalls im thinking its the computer im not to sure or map sensors can anyone help

thankx

40

After the motor is warmed up I put my finger over the lower port on the TB and there is abit of vacuum pull there - it will very gently pull the rubber from my glove away from my finger but the rubber will come away easily. The upper port sucks some mean air, itā€™s howling loud but Iā€™ll post that issue elsewhere

I pulled the FITV off in an attempt to solve a hunting idle problem. I should have counted the number of turns out, but Iā€™d guess it at around 3 - 3.5 turns out. had to hold a finger on the brass tip in order to get the white donut to turn, but managed to seat the white donut. backed it out ~1.5 turns and reinstalled.

might still have a problem - after cleaning and reinstalling both the FITV the lower port is still drawing vacuum, just abit less than before but there is still a pull on my finger when its over the port. should the port be totally dead with the engine warmed up? if so then Iā€™ll need to pull it back out and readjust the donut abit tighter.

if I seat the donut completely then I get no fast idle in cold start conditions, correct?