Teg Tip: H4 to H4H Conversion...

INFORMATION Integra Help
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Originally Posted by OZ

FINALLY!!

The moment some people are waiting for:p This is a full Teg Tip submission. Sorry NFULFX, I’d figure I should start showing this to people while you find the time to add this in the Teg Tip page. Anyway, on with the show:

Fig 1.0: Parts needed from left to right -> H4 bulb of your choosing, pair of tin snips, and rubbing alcohol.

Fig 1.1: This is the basic layout of the H4. The H4H by comparison has a smaller mounting plate. So, the object here is to use the tin-snips and reduce the mounting plate so that it can fit in the H4H housing.

Fig 1.2: It’s very important that you do not cut the metal tabs…yet. These tabs perfectly align with the H4H housing. Your goal is to cut off the metal in between the 3 metal tabs.

Fig 1.3: Be careful not to cut off too much metal or you’ll end up cutting off the whole mounting plate which defeats the whole purpose of this excercise.

Fig 1.4: Your bulb should now look like this. Notice I didn’t cut off too much metal. And also notice the 3 metal tabs are still intact.

Fig 1.5: You can skip this step if you like. Personally I like to remove the excess metal off the 3 tabs.

Fig 1.6: The finished product should look like this. You can trim the width of the metal tabs, but do it in very small increments. It’s best to fit the H4 in the housing as snug as possible rather than having it move around a lot. At this point, you may use the rubbing alcohol to clean the bulb. This is a precautionary step that shouldn’t be skipped. You don’t want to waste your time for nothin’.

Overall, each bulb took me 30min. Most of you will probably get this done faster. Personally, I like to take my time when working for my car.

Good luck,

Oz

Next possible Teg Tip -> DIY CAI, stay tuned.

Fig 1.0 -> Parts and Tools

Fig 1.1 -> H4 Layout

Fig 1.2 -> “Ouch” time

Fig 1.3 -> Say to yourself, “Yes this right! I’m not wasting my money!”:stuck_out_tongue:

Fig 1.4 -> Ain’t done yet

Fig 1.5 -> Taking off what’s not needed

Fig 1.6 -> It’s time to make your Teg look BadA$$

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ok, call me dumb, but what is H4 and H4H??
and what do they have to do with g2 tegs?

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Originally posted by 93integraRS
ok, call me dumb, but what is H4 and H4H??
and what do they have to do with g2 tegs?

They are for the JDM 1pc. Headlights. North American stock Tegs use 9004 headlights. The JDM 1pc. use H4H. Unfortunately, H4H are very rare (therefore quite expensive), so the H4 is a good cheap alternative.

Regards,

Oz

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thanks :slight_smile:

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A good write-up ‘The_Oz’, but there is one issue that you’ve overlooked that I’d like to address…

What you stated is an inexpensive alternative for using H4 bulbs in JDM 1-piece lights, but the problem with that is that the light pattern emitted from the light won’t be as good as one from JDM stock H4H bulbs. The reason being is because the JDM H4H bulb sits farther forward in the JDM headlight housing that the H4 bulb would, even with the modifcations stated which is why you would want to take your mod one step further:

Carefully undo your H4 mounting plate and resolder it lower on the housing so that it is almost flush with the bottom of the bulb. This is after you cut the tabs as you have described in your earlier post:

This will position the H4 bulb in the JDM headlight close to that of an H4H bulb would sit, providing better lighting and reducing the risk of overheating your JDM plastic headlight housing as a result of having the non-modified H4 bulb sit closer to the housing.

I am running JDM H4H bulbs in my 1-piece headlights and have not tried this mod yet on H4 bulbs, nor am sure if I will, but this is one step closer to making your H4 bulbs truly mimick the H4H bulbs and may give you what you are looking for in an inexpensive alternative to the H4H bulb.

This mod was first done by a friend of mine and ‘former’ member Thanh (“Asian Buddha”) and he says his modified lights perform to his satisfaction.

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Wow!

Thanks Ive. I didn’t even think about that. I did notice the way the bulb sits in the JDM housing, but I didn’t think it would melt anything. And so far, it hasn’t. I don’t have a solder kit, so maybe I’ll use some crazy glue or somethin’ to reattach the mounting plate. I’ll just have to wait till my current bulbs burn out:sad:

Thanks,

Oz

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In “Fig 1.5 -> Taking off what’s not needed” instead of cutting the extra off, i folded them down and then bent the original tabs back out, basically making it the same as the one that Thanh but without moving the base (because i couldn’t figure out how to) seems to work pretty good, and it was quick. Ill get a picture to show what im talking about.

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sup…how do i remove the mounting plate??? Also…i did Oz’s step by jus cuttin the base…but when i installed it…my brights weren’t bright…they were jus like regular colors. So im wondering if i’ll get brights again if i do ur steps and remove the base and readjust… thanx

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Originally posted by b8teenAce
sup…how do i remove the mounting plate??? Also…i did Oz’s step by jus cuttin the base…but when i installed it…my brights weren’t bright…they were jus like regular colors. So im wondering if i’ll get brights again if i do ur steps and remove the base and readjust… thanx

Ive’s post is right on! I totally forgot about the dimensions of the H4H and H4. When installing the H4 as is, it’ll be recessed under the reflector and that’s the cause of the dim lighting.

Ive-> I don’t know how you resoldered the plate back, but I couldn’t! I had to make something else which I don’t even know if it’s easy for other people to do, heck I had a friend do it for me. But when I figure it out, I’ll get some pics of it and do a re-post.

One thing, the rubber boot doesn’t seem to fit well when doing this mod because there’s nothing for the boot to grab onto once you lower the mounting plate.

Regards,

Oz

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Ive-> I don’t know how you resoldered the plate back, but I couldn’t! I had to make something else which I don’t even know if it’s easy for other people to do, heck I had a friend do it for me. But when I figure it out, I’ll get some pics of it and do a re-post.
You need flux as a deoxidizing agent in order to make the solder bond with the metal. You can get solder that has a flux core, but it takes longer for that type of solder to work. I apply a liquid flux additive to any metal that I’m soldering that I know will have trouble bonding to both pieces - in this case, the base of the H4 bulb and the re-worked base itself. Then, you heat it up until it bubbles and then apply a your solder to both pieces and the solder will bond where you applied the flux to. Then attach the base to the bulb and resolder them together.

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wussup…so how do i cut out the base to adjust the positioning of the bulb??..i mean…where do I cut?? or can i jus cut anywhere down there so i can make it shorter??? thanx

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Originally posted by b8teenAce
wussup…so how do i cut out the base to adjust the positioning of the bulb??..i mean…where do I cut?? or can i jus cut anywhere down there so i can make it shorter??? thanx

The easiest way is to use a Dremel tool of some kind and cut just above the weld points of the plate.

Regards,

Oz

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whoa thanks for the tip now I dont gotta spend 100$ for bulbs!

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very very good post guys. I commend you guys on that and if i were a teacher, A++ . My PIAA platinum h4h burnt out. And i don’t wanna spend another 75 bux for another set. Guess im going this route. BTW: these h4h bulbs are ridiculously priced. they’re like making 65 bux off us.

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ok here is the pic of what i was talking about. I think im gonna use the solder method when i do the bulbs for my lights but here is an easy way to accomplish almost the same thing without soldering or anything.

Hope this is of some help to some poeple that don’t feel comfortable with the other method.

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Burnsie- Did that fix the brightness issue when you put it in the housing???

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I don’t have my lights in yet but it looks like it will fix any issues.

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Just to let you all know, I just put my PIAA Converted H4’s (following Burnsie’s procedure) into my one peices. It fixs the brightness issue perfectley. These lights project the light perfectley. When driving at night it seems as though you have true HID.

Thanks again for the idea Burnsie!!!

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Burnsie. I thought I was the only one who pulled that exact trick off! NICE! :smiley:

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