Teg Tip: Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Removal/Cleaning Procedures...

FITV

The FITV is only operational when the car is cold. Once it warms up then the FITV (Fast Idle Thermal Valve) is non operational.

Later,
BR

Defective TPS I guess…

Damn, removing that IACV was a pain in the ass!

I had to remove a few other things so I could reach down to remove the damn coolant hoses…

I also tried removing the ‘plate’ but ended up stripping one of the screws, so I left it in, and had to re-tighten the other screw…

Damn, them screws are in there HARD… I needed to get out my impact driver…

Dood, I just cleaned mine, after stripping the lower bolt on the IACV… all I did was loosen it with a vice grip, take it out & hit up the ol’ bench grinder to shave the rounded off bolt down from a 12mm to an 11mm, voila!!!:smiley:

What will this do for me?

Hey I was wondering if this is a good thing to do on my 92 RS. What will this actually do for my car? Does it improve idling? I have never heard of the IACV so I am just wondering what the benefits are of doing this.

Thnx for the info in advanced :cool:

I had a rough-ass hunting idle on my 91’ RS, cleaned that bastard, and smooth idle attained!!

Re: What will this do for me?

Originally posted by Phantisy
[B]Hey I was wondering if this is a good thing to do on my 92 RS. What will this actually do for my car? Does it improve idling? I have never heard of the IACV so I am just wondering what the benefits are of doing this.

Thnx for the info in advanced :cool: [/B]

To get rid of the bouncing idle problem. It your idle is smooth (rests at 800-950) don’t even worry about this post. :slight_smile:

Re: Re: What will this do for me?

Originally posted by danblackracing
It your idle is smooth (rests at 800-950) don’t even worry about this post. :slight_smile:
You idle should be 750rpm +/- 50rpm. If it is any higher or lower (with a stock setup) then there is something wrong.

Later,
BR

so i did the cleaning out of the IACV, it seemed to do the trick sort of, i havent driven it very much since.

i always have my share of problems when i do something to my car. i couldnt get the hoses off for the life of me, so i unbolted the part that the hoses connect to. and after i did that, i realized i broke one of the bolt’s head off. so i had the screw part of the middle bolt still in the IACV. i kinda put it out of mind and went about cleaning the thing, and when i re-installed it, i figured id see if it would be fine… nope… as soon as i started the car, coolant was leaking out pretty quick. so i shut it off and called around to some places to get another bolt. since there was to head to take it off, i tried a pair of pliers, which only stripped the threads off. so then i got creative… i put the “bolt” into a bench vise grip and tightened it way down… it actually formed the “bolt” to a rectangle, to which i was then able to unscrew. after that, it was a trip to NAPA to get 3 new screws. after it installed, i let it get to normal temp, and it seemed to be normal, ~750 at idle, it used to bump from 1250-1750 back and forth, back and forth. ive driven it a few miles since then, and it is idling at about 1500. but no bumping, ill see if this continues, if it does, ill mess with the idle adjustment screw.

thanks for the awesome Tip!!!

p.s. the IACV for b18a looks exactly as pictured

Originally posted by Eviloliv3
[B]so i did the cleaning out of the IACV, it seemed to do the trick sort of, i havent driven it very much since.

i always have my share of problems when i do something to my car. i couldnt get the hoses off for the life of me, so i unbolted the part that the hoses connect to. and after i did that, i realized i broke one of the bolt’s head off. so i had the screw part of the middle bolt still in the IACV. i kinda put it out of mind and went about cleaning the thing, and when i re-installed it, i figured id see if it would be fine… nope… as soon as i started the car, coolant was leaking out pretty quick. so i shut it off and called around to some places to get another bolt. since there was to head to take it off, i tried a pair of pliers, which only stripped the threads off. so then i got creative… i put the “bolt” into a bench vise grip and tightened it way down… it actually formed the “bolt” to a rectangle, to which i was then able to unscrew. after that, it was a trip to NAPA to get 3 new screws. after it installed, i let it get to normal temp, and it seemed to be normal, ~750 at idle, it used to bump from 1250-1750 back and forth, back and forth. ive driven it a few miles since then, and it is idling at about 1500. but no bumping, ill see if this continues, if it does, ill mess with the idle adjustment screw.

thanks for the awesome Tip!!!

p.s. the IACV for b18a looks exactly as pictured [/B]

I have the same problem. It now idles at 1200, and the idle screww barely made a difference (turn it quite a bit). I ordered a TPS. We’ll se what that does.

i also adjusted that little white screw when i was trying to fix the bouncing idle, it seemed to make it idle higher, so if the screw doesnt work, ill see if the white one does.

maybe your throttle cable also needs adjustment

i cleaned my stock IACV and re-installed it, it seemed to make it bounce not as much, and not as often, but it seems to like to idle at 1100 now, but it does idle down to about 800 like it should, ill see what a newer IACV will cost, if its like 20 bucks ill get it

Originally posted by Eviloliv3
ill see what a newer IACV will cost, if its like 20 bucks ill get it
Try nearly $300.

Later,
BR

:lol: :rofl: :lol: don’t I wish…

Sometimes there are IACV’s om eBay for $20-60. I only saw Honda Accord and 300ZX models today…

Originally posted by B R
[B]Try nearly $300.

Later,
BR [/B]

are we talking about the same part? theres no way that thing is 300 bucks

HaHa, yes…it is!

i believe its 220 or 250. forget if thats with or w/o the club discount.