Originally posted by Eviloliv3
are we talking about the same part? theres no way that thing is 300 bucks
I checked, it is $260. Before tax.
We are talking about the same part. Look at the original post in this thread. You will see me mentioned in there…
Later,
BR
Honda wants 180 for it. i dont know why, that thing is so small, such a rip off. ill hit up a junk yard
My idle used to bounce from 400 t0 around 1200 when the engine is warm. When I start it cold, it would just stay at around 1500…
After I cleaned the IACV, i idle stopped bouncing around and stays around 7500… But now, when the engine is cold, my idle stays so low that it dies. I have to keep the idle up by pressing on the gas peddal for about a minute or two, then the idle goes back up. when the engine warms up, it idles normal…
What do you guys think the problem is ?
while I am far from a pro, I would say if yo have checked all the lines for vacum leaks and the tps is good, then your iacv may be defective. just my humble opinion.
Originally posted by whiteDA9
[B]when the engine is cold, my idle stays so low that it dies. I have to keep the idle up by pressing on the gas peddal for about a minute or two, then the idle goes back up. when the engine warms up, it idles normal…
What do you guys think the problem is ? [/B]
That would be a problem with your FITV (Fast Idle Control Valve). The FITV controls the idle when the engine is cold.
Check your coolant level for now. Low coolant level could cause that problem.
Later,
BR
My coolant is not low. Could it be the hoses?
So that explains why my car bounces from 600 to 1400 when it’s cold and stops doing that when the engine gets warm. Also when it’s cold outside and you start it in the morning it should jump to 1500 to warm up the engine, mine doesn’t do that it stays at 750 and sometimes dies so that would be the (FITV)? if so where’s that located?
Help would be appreciated!
My idle only bounces when Im coast to a stop. As soon as the speedo is below 5 m.p.h. it stops. I believe I have a bad T.P.S. Throttle Position Sensor.
You know what ? i’m just gonna change my whole top end to B18B…
Originally posted by whiteDA9
You know what ? i’m just gonna change my whole top end to B18B…
Do mine when you’re done. :bored:
This one guy is selling his 99 LS head for $120… complete…
been reading up on the iacv, and just wondering if any would have any suggestions. I just went ls/vtec and have a type-r manifold with bbk 70mm tb. My buddy who did it for said that i wouldn’t need the coolant lines going to the throttle body or the iacv.but my idle is very irregular now…when its cold it starts out at 2000rpm then goes to 1500rpm after letting sit and warm up…afterdriving awhile it drops to 1000rpm…then with more driving it drops to 750rpm…
how important is it for the coolant lines to be runing through them?..
and if i wanted to connect it back where do the coolant lines go?..
any help??
You do need to connect your coolant lines to everything. I dont know why he told you that it would be fine without them, but you really should put them right.
He may have been talking about the FITV, which is not on the ITR manifold and is on the LS manifold.
Just get a copy of the helms manual and it will show you the routing for the lines.
Later,
BR
Summer 03
Ok, so after cleaning the IACV and intake I still have a bouncing idle all the time, but with less bouncing range (sitting still or moving).
Few days later I adjusted the idle, no difference.
Fall 03
I replace the FICV (used), an the idle ony bounces under 50 m.p.h., and stops below 5 m.p.h.
Starting last week:
She idles perfect. I did nothing!!!
???:shrug:
[SIZE=3]I’m not opening my hood!!![/SIZE] :squint:
I went to the junkyard and grabbed another IACV and replace it on my car bam! fixed the bouncing problem:cool: so now I got to get the FICV replaced:( always something goes bad when you fix one thing and next thing goes down that sucks!!:mad: Oh well guess I gotta go to the junkyard and grab that FICV and hopefully it’ll fix the cold start problem!
Thanks for the big help guys!
Originally posted by 90redintegra
[B]I went to the junkyard and grabbed another IACV and replace it on my car bam! fixed the bouncing problem:cool: so now I got to get the FICV replaced:( always something goes bad when you fix one thing and next thing goes down that sucks!!:mad: Oh well guess I gotta go to the junkyard and grab that FICV and hopefully it’ll fix the cold start problem!
Thanks for the big help guys! [/B]
Can you use a d-series IACV?
Creep-- I’m not sure about that one. I tried the B-16 IACV and it didn’t fit so I had to get the exact same motor to make it work. Mine was B18a, sorry I couldn’t help much.
Alan
Originally posted by creep
Can you use a d-series IACV?
Found this on a Google search. Y.O.Y.O. (your on your own)
The obd0 has a different bolt pattern than the obd1/obd2 IACV’s. That is the only difference that I have found on them.
I am currently using a b18c1 (1996 GSR) IACV on my skunk2 manifold that is bolted up to my b18c1 (1996 GSR) head. I chose that over the obd1 IACV I had because it was cleaner, but they both bolted up fine.
The b18a from the 90-91 tegs and all the b16a1 engines used the same IACV, which has the different bolt pattern.
Yes, you can use the d-series IACV’s on the b-series manifolds, although I havent put too much time into researching what ones will work and what ones wont, if any.
Later,
BR
Re: Teg Tip: Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Removal/Cleaning Procedures…
Originally posted by The_Oz
[B][u]NOTES FROM THE AUTHOR[/u]
Well, BR explained it pretty simply. So, when I was able to rent the digicam the other day, I decided to clean the IACV and post it up. This is pretty straightforward, with the coolant lines being the only hassle (probably because I’m just too weak 
).
[u]CREDITS[/u]
BR - Well, he opened the doors and pretty much explained things very well. 
[u]INTRODUCTION[/u]
Task: Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Removal, Installation, Cleaning
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: Actual work is 30 minutes. Drying time is 3 hours depending on your preference.
Engine Used in this Guide: 89-91 B16A
Engines Applicable: Other B-Series engines will differ, but the idea is basically the same.
[u]TOOLS REQUIRED[/u]
NOTE: If the pictures do not show, click here for the album: Best Of SEO & Blogging - ImageStation
[u]STEP 1[/u]
Figure 1 shows the location of the IACV. Get yourself familiarized with what you’re about to do. NOTE: It is highly recommended that you do the work with the engine COLD.
Fig. 1 - IACV Location inside Engine Bay
[u]STEP 2[/u]
Take a 12mm socket or wrench and remove the bolts shown in Fig. 2. The IACV will simply detach itself from the intake manifold.
Fig. 2 - Remove Mounting Bolts
[u]STEP 3[/u]
Once the bolts are removed, you need to remove the 2 coolant hoses and the 2P Connector from the IACV. Use long-nose pliers to loosen the clamps that hold the coolant hoses tight. Fig. 3 shows the IACV removed from the engine and I have highlighted the items for clarity. Be careful not lose that O-Ring!!
Fig. 3 - Where everything is
[u]STEP 4[/u]
Refer again to Figure 3 in Step 3 for reference. Take the Carb Cleaner and liberally spray the inside of the 2 holes shown in Figure 3. It may be best to remove the O-Ring if possible as I noticed that the Carb Cleaner SWELLED the rubber. However, the swelling should subside in a couple of hours. Once you are finished with the Carb Cleaner, take the Air Compressor and inject compressed air in the holes to dry.
What I have done is this: Spent approx. 30 seconds per hole injecting it with Carb Cleaner. Then spent 2 min. per hole with the Air Compressor. I then flooded the 2 holes with Carb Cleaner again and laid it down on the ground as shown in Figure 3. I left it soaking like that for approx. 1 hour. After which, I pumped the air compressor again to dry it. Just to be on the safe side, I left it to “natural dry” for 2 hours before installing it back on the engine.
[u]STEP 5[/u]
Installation is reverse. Do not mix the Coolant hoses around. Although, I do not see any forseeable damage if you do (just be on the safe side, though). Don’t forget the O-Ring gasket. That is quite important if you want to minimize air leaks. Take your baby out for a spin!
[u]CONCLUSION[/u]
As far as I know, the IACV does not operate unless the engine has reached normal operating temperatures. Until it does, the Fast Idle Thermo Valve does the work. Again, I could be wrong. In any case, it is better to test the IACV while the engine has completely warmed up.
My bouncing idle has been fixed previously. However, I have noticed I feel less vibration in the cockpit during Idle after this maintenance.
If you have any questions, either post 'em here or email me at the_oz@hotmail.com
Regards,
Oz [/B]
AWESOME WRITE UP!! I only have one question: Is this something I should try if my idle doesn’t necessarily “bounce” but actually starts out HIGH when it’s cold then drops down (too low) when it warms up; & I get a vibration?