Yeah I got some POS tranny a guy ripped me off on. Been rockin it anyways though, even with no reverse 
And I’ve seen the new tanks online for $160, but I’ll see if I can’t find a proper treatment first to save cash
ive been thinking long and hard about this cause ive been trying to clean out my garage. email me and lets talk about you taking this extra fuel tank I have off my hands. ill beat the price on the cheapest one youve found…
I emailed you
Got my new tank in. Here’s a pic of the top half painted with anti-rust enamel
Went to start it but somehow my battery went bad. No idea why but it should still be under warranty so my dad’s taking it back tomorrow to exchange it.
So I’ve hit a little bump in getting the car back running. I can’t get her to start. Filled the lines with gas along with the fuel filter. It’s getting gas because when I pulled the hose off the rail, it came streaming out. Checked the spark plugs and they are all good. Any ideas guys?
Takes 3 things to get a motor started, spark, fuel, and compression. If you have spark and fuel check compression. IF compression comes back good then double check firing order and cam timing. Anything else you’ve done recently that could attribute to it?
Nvm I got it to finally start. Added a little more gas and it started right up haha
Awesome! I love your build thread as always! I need to start one for mine already.
Alright well a couple updates as to not leave everyone in the dark. Car’s been running for a while, still no reverse. That’s going to change pretty soon. Checking the shaking problem and found all my tires are worn bare on the insides (camber duh haha) and I managed to crack a wheel somehow. Probably one of our very numerous potholes. So I threw those on the Civic and put the Del Sol wheels that were on it on my car. Pretty fresh tires and went and had them balanced. Surprisingly that took care of a large portion of the shaking and the car felt much better. So I’m assuming my wheels are just off balance. Also, when checking something else later today, I noticed the left, driver side anchor bolt for the upper control arm wasn’t tightened all the way. Tried to tighten it and it snapped in half. Guy before put some undoubtedly cheap, ebay “camber” anchor bolts that offsets the upper control arms themselves out a little. Anyways, the piece that broke was the stud, so we went and got some matching thread bolts with washers and nuts and just left the heads on. I’ll post a pic later. Little bit ghetto, but it’s safe and was cheaper that buying new anchor bolts. So the car, after that, felt even better. All shaking is practically gone now. There’s a tiny bit but I think it might be my driver side axle because it has two little holes in the boot and looks like it lost a lot of its grease. Since it’s life-time warranty I’ll be replacing that. Next on the list is trailing arm bushings and front rotors. I’m getting some shaking while braking so I’m almost positive they are warped. So overall things are getting better for the teg. Lots of little things being taken care of. I’m moving off to Auburn University next fall so the car’s got to be at its best. I won’t be able to fix it there since all the tools are my dad’s and I won’t be taking them. Luckily my apartment complex it cool with people working on their cars so that’s a plus. I’ll try to keep this thread a little more updated from now on. Stay tuned guys!
Those are quite the setbacks. Quick question did you get an alignment after lowering? I know the cause of wear is more of a toe issue then camber. Good luck at university
Yeah it’s definitely camber related. just the insides of my tires are worn. The shaking issue probably just sped the process up.
Toe causes the inner part of the tire to wear and is commonly mistaken for camber wear
Huh. Well it wouldnt make sense because I just did new tie rods not to long ago and had it aligned.
I get inner wear too about 4-5 months after an alignment. Problem I have with mine though is that the people who I take it to get aligned at say it isn’t totally alignable. My camber kit bottoms out with about -1.2 or so camber on it still. Is that shit normal? What could be causing that?
I have no idea what you’re talking about as far as your camber kit “bottoming out”. what it sounds like they are saying is there’s a good chance it isn’t adjustable enough
Well yeah, that’s what I mean. The bolt is adjusted as far as it will go and it’s still at -1.2 camber. My DA isn’t even that slammed either with Skunk2 camber kits on it. Kinda sucks.
Skunk2 camera? Haha. I assume you mean springs. If so then that’s what I have on mine too. I wish the back was lower. The front is almost just right.
No, Skunk2 Cambers, as in kits. Damn auto correct. :mad:
I thought the Skunk2 sets went out to like a +2.5/-2.5? You’re talking all the way around right? Front and back?
Yup, buuut they were a last minute thing when I had my coilovers installed. I wasn’t sure if I was going to need them for as low as I wanted to go, he put the coils on, informed me that I did and ordered me what he said were Skunk2 camber kits and installed them. I’ve never looked at them in detail. Could these things be damaged too to the point of not adjusting to their intended radius’ by hitting potholes and street damage? : /