Those pics in Swede’s write up at Honda-tech and the Doc files linked here dont work. Anyone have them?
Edit: the New URL for the write up is at http://members.cox.net/funkydiscobeaver/psconversion/Power%20Steering%20Removal.doc
I repaired the Photos at honda tech for Swedeboy’s write up.
Link To his thread
http://www.honda-tech.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=1502135
G/L
Alright I’ve been reading for a while.
Seems like most of this thread is about looping. I would like a little more info on swapping the rack to a manual. Screw that breather, I’m not risking those overflow issues. I also have access to a manual rack from an 88 CRX Si, so I and very interested in the rack swap. I will probably drop those Quaife gears in before I swap also.
This is what I got so far.
Original Post:
The manual rack from the 88-91 civic is a direct bolt-in and also weighs far less than the DA power rack—7 lbs 11 oz to be exact! Not to mention all the weight saved by removing the p/s pump, reservoir, cooler, lines, and fluid. All in all it figures to around 18-20 pounds saved.
However, the one drawback I found while using the manual rack is that the steering ratio suffers. It requires more turns lock-to-lock, and on a track that just won’t do.
Quaife Quick-Ratio Rack and Pinion Kits to the rescue.
So these are some of the other random facts I have come across.
Apparently I might have to beat my teg with a hammer.
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showpost.php?p=987301&postcount=43
on my DA it required using the EF rear X-Member as the ‘half-moons’ that the rack actually resides in is way too big for the skinnier manual rack…everything bolts in except the front to rear engine X-Member.
Any more info would be very helpful before I start getting into this project.
a dremel is a lot easier to maneuver than a hammer. 
Anybody have pics of the area that needs “hammered”?? I would prefer not to wail on my car with a hammer/mallet. If a dremel does the job, Id prefer that.
Hmm have another manual rack question.
What did you do with the power steering speed sensor?? Do they make a plug? or Did you just leave it there? If i dont need it Id perfer to remove it. What do they use on the CTR for example when they are manual?
well unless you want your tach to work. you just need to loop the line.:dozing:
Im not looping.
well then if you refuse to loop a single piece of hose to connect both open ends on that speed sensor (which is where the speedo plugs in, and which WILL leak tranny fluid if you don’t), what exactly is your plan of attack to not only keep the speedo working, but keep it from leaking as well?
i mean i guess you could JB Weld both of them shut. :shrug:
I misread BLKCAKs post thought he ment to just loop the rack and call it a day, I will loop those lines on the sensor. That is a big deal at all, my bad.
I don’t know about this thread man, has anybody died yet from their rack seizing up haha. you need fluid in it to lube the gears, it also needs a resevior so that air can escape the rack aswell. someone try this. take out the stated pieces from the valve body and then run one line in and one line out of the rack and put a little resevior on the firwall or something and fill the rack up with some fluid and have some in the resevior aswell so it doesn’t suck air in and it should be easy to turn since you took out the guts and reliable since it still has fluid and no air in it. or just swap out to a manual rack for the $50 or so.
Nope fuckers, have 30K+ on my p/s removed rack, all I did was remove the proper internals, loop the lines with stock hoses and removed all remaining pump/lines. Still works tits. Haters die.
nothin wrong with that. 
i did the manual rack so i can put in the quaife gears though. 
RacingPoverty How does it feel at high speeds(75+)
I heard the stearing feels a little loose( i dont know if thats the best way to put it) at higher highway speeds.:hmm:
Check the beginning of the thread, that only happens if you remove the wrong internals. If you do it the right way it improves feel across the entire range and there is NONE of that loose feeling that people who do it incorrectly get. My car only gets squirrelly at 80mph because thats when the tires do their 4th gear chirp at full boost.
Don’t worry the steering feels tight all the way to 140.
So unfortunatly i dont have a whole day to pull the power stearing considering i have been working seven days a week.
I do however has accsess to a lube shop with lift and all. tell me if you guys think this is a feasable idea or if i should just do it at once.
Spread it out over multiple days
Say this sunday Drain the system, remove the slugs from the rack and pull the belt.
Next sunday loop the SS and the rack
Next sunday pull all the lines.
u get the point anybody forsee any issues i might have
is it your daily driver? that’s a big chunk of info you forgot to include that would have a LOT of bearing on the answer you get.
Not for long Maybe a month at the most
It is an hour of work for everything if you are competent… when I was 16 or 17 and did this for the first time, the complete removal took 2 hours or so on 2 jackstands. Don’t be gentle.
ive been running like this for about two months now with no problems…only issue i have is theres still p/s fluid leaking out of the lines even after i looped them…it seems that theres pressure building up between the lines and forcing it out between the clamps