So its done well beside for the cooler, that will take me 20 min:)
looped the VSS last night adn took about 3 hrs taking my time to pull the rest tonight:clap:
been wanting to do it for quite some time now;)
thanks guys :hi5:
By the way jackson001, good job on revising sweds write up, those pictures where killing me:giggle:
When you loop lines, you gotta do it the proper way or else the system will continue to try to pressurize the lines a bit thus soemtiesm leaking from looped lines. On my car I removed EVERYTHING minus the PS rack. Looped the speed sensor, took apart and gutted most of the valve body, then looped the 4 fittings intot eh corrseponding ones depending on flow, and the high rpessure hose I “T” in a breather. with the breather mod etc, the rack is amost as easy as a real manual rack.
i just did my removal and looping. everything works great. very easy to turn and nice feel. except if am driving and i just twitch the wheel and let it go it will bounce left and right over and over and over. and when i am pulling hard thru a corner the raod is felt in the steering wheel a great deal, sometimes almost taking the wheel out of my hand. is there any thing more i can do or is this the final result of pulling the P/S system?
does anyone have a pic of the looped lines with the breather in it. aslo is this going to be ok on a daily driver?
what kind or kinds of breather setup are people using. Please post your pic(s) of this mod.
Dont have a breater setup up on mine yet, but here is a picture of my looping setup.
so which method does everyone perfer…
looping the lines
or
taking apart the valve?
both?
yes, both, definately. i dont understand why you would go to the trouble to take the rack out and flush the fluid and gut the valve body if you werent gonna loop the lines. i also dont understand why you would go to the trouble to take ps removal so far as to get to this stage just to leave the rack in the car and just loop the lines. when mark and converted the first ps racks years ago we designed them like that for a reason. looping the lines assures that the fluid is flowing to the right places in the right direction and the rack would work properly if the valvebody were intact. gutting the valvebody assures that there is little to no pressure generated by operating the rack. even when the fluid circuits are opened up, you still want it flowing in the right path. you cant just loop whatever hoses you want. the two mods go hand in hand. its not a matter of whether or not it works using either one of those methods alone, its a matter of doing it right if you are going to do it at all, which entails doing it completely, (by performing both rack mods to achieve the least felt pressure at the wheel).
jesus christ jake.
i didn’t even read all that. i got like halfway past the second line and just said “oh fuck it, jake needs to get laid.”
seriously. go buy some lotion or something.
jean says hi.
lol damnit man why wont they just do it the right way? i also dont want someone halfassing the process and then blaming it on the method when it was in fact the incompete execution. im just trying to help in my own sorta technical, verbose sort of way. ha! laid, schmaid… who needs that when i got the money tree?
saw that pic on another forum and thought i’d post it here to give people ideas.
sombody should open a “how to put it back on” thread, mine was removed but i want it back up …
follow the steps in reverse.
Kyle–that pic probably gives people a start, but that p/s rack is really unlike the g2’s
i wasnt sure if there was much of a difference. i still like the idea though. i’d like to see it on a DA. there are still just as many hoses, right?
i had it for about 2 weeks on a DA and it was both invasive in the engine bay and honestly not all that special. no real noticeable difference between removing the valve body parts and putting in a breather.
only a simple question, how does ur steering feel when u turning ???
im about to do the same, remove my P/S but im not sure if to do so, i dont want to hav the problem or the stress on tuning at low speed or driving on a local street full of holes, cant blaim me, i live on N.Y.
thanksits not so bad after building a little arm strenth. seriusly thought your reaction time will decrease, at least mine did. i had compensate for the extra effort to get the wheel over real quik. unlike the PS where the wheel and tires move a little more quikly. it colorado, i hear you on shitty streets. 
This was a great help to me. I managed to loop the lines and dismantle the valve assembly without taking out the rack. You’ll need a strong magnet to get the valve pieces out though.
that’s why you use the EF rack with the mugen gear set. 