Hows this working out for you? Did you stay with that schedule. How difficult is adding fluid through the brass coupling.
I ask lots of questions… :shrug:
you must not follow the current threads around here, cause my car’s been on jackstands ever since i got the cavalier to beat up on daily. 
it’s nice not to have a daily-driver project. 
that said, the looped rack was superb for over a year. now i’ll be “gearing” toward something different (and better hopefully). :giggle:
I finally got the pics of the plugs that I got…
(right to left)
the first plug is just a normal bolt, but specific to the length
the second and third plug is the bleeder valve, notice it looks a like a bolt inside of a bolt. You can take the top bolt out and it allows air to come out (if the pressure build up is too much)
the fourth, again, a normal bolt that just plugs it but its of the exact length of the lines.
Sorry it took so long for pictures, I had someone PMing me like crazy on HT, so I finally took them.
FYI: use some teflon tape around the plugs, mine leaks!
(Havent noticed any pressure build up so I doubt Ill take the bleeder “bolt” out of the top)
BTW: I just bought a 92 EG with no power steering… I like the PS rack in the integra w/o the PS better then the manual rack on the civic… I dunno maybe its just me. (and remember I only have half the strength in my right arm)
does anyone know the pitch of the fittings they are using on the rack… I thought they where 1.5 but the old 12mm hard line fitting would not screw into my 12mmx1.5 die … getting ready to order fittings from summit and want to get it right the first time
42…?
I’d also like to know. Mainly just the size of the two rack to transmission lines…
they are 12x1.0… the 2 bigger ones are 1.5
bumping this up to ask if anyone has the saved .doc.
Just curious, manual racks don’t need power steering fluid right? If so, why would our racks need it to lubricate? Just curious.
K, just did this…3 things…
- Removed ALL parts listed here, and pump, and reservoir, and ALL lines from engine bay in 3 straight hours of work, using only a screwdriver, socket set and a dremel.
- This helps a lot!
- I did it all with the motor in the car, and the vlave body attached. Just crawled underneath and went at er.
please help me! maybe its still fresh in your mind… i need to know how those things go back in the valve body
got gmail? if so i can send you the .pdf scan of the steering section out of the Helm manual.
armed.ferret(NOSPAM)<at>gmail.com
remove the nospam of course.
If he doesnt help you out, I can. + Mark will probably email you anthrax. :sipread:
so there is no need to change the fluid after the looping because its not even needed in the first place? i plan to do this soon, so i want to know, cause i was considering not even looping the lines
been reading this, and it seems that there is no point in looping the lines, but i have a question about if you do loop the lines.
they have a tut for 3rd gen tegs on honda-tech (i think it was h-t) and they showed that they hooked up a lil resevoir to act as a breather so that its not so hard to steer seeing as you wont be fighting the fluid.
could you T off the looped lines and and run a line to the resevoir or a new resevoir in order to let it breathe?
if not im just gonna get a crx si rack.
thanks
i switched over to a crx rack a while ago. it weighs far less than the power rack, and you can also pick up a more sporty gear set for it too. 
You have the Quaife gear on your DX rack? I was meaning to do that, but wasnt sure if the dimensions were the same.
not yet, but i’m planning on it.
I’ve been working on my teg lately to get it track prepped for HPDE days, and one this I have found is that if you remove the plungers and springs you get alot of play in the steering. It’s probably fine to take out the sensor plunger but other one that is held in with that stick going across the two plungers needs to stay in order to give some feedback to that part that comes off the pinion gear.
I know it’s this since I have put in new inner, outer tie rods, I tightened the whole steering column and I made sure the U-Joint was tight as well. Plus I took apart my old steering rack and watched the little rod that comes off the pinion move as i turned the pinion shaft. It contacts that plunger to make the power assist work properly…do I make any sense?
that’s my .02 cents. (take it or leave it)
Has no one else had this problem???
have you driven the car that way? i’ve had that same problem, and i replaced inner/outer tie rods and tightened the rack also but i still have play in the wheel.
i’ve been thinking about just buying a crx rack, but if your way works i’ll just do that. i still have all those plugger things.
thanks for the tip