It really does not change high speed performance. Since remember the stock way the system works is to give no assist after 30 mph. I just wanted to save the weight and space in the motor compartment. (plans to go turbo after this track season)
if you wanted to save weight, why not just switch over to a manual rack (with quaife gears if the ratio bothers you) instead? it’s almost 8 pounds lighter (7 lbs., 11 oz. to be exact). surely most people can appreciate the weight savings that affords, especially when combined with removing the other components.
I’d love to have a civic rack, and use the quaife rack and pinion. I just can’t afford that right now. Another day.
Using the stock rack and just adding a reservoir or looping the lines was cheap compared to getting a civic rack then the $239 rack and pinion.
Quaife Link (King Motor Sports)
i realize that, and i’m in the same boat as you (budget-conscious ownz all).
ya gotta admit though, for about $300 total (used rack + new gears) a 7-pound weight savings is pretty good. about the same savings you’d get from a racing seat with less cost. 
That’s true, but I gained 10 lbs last month some how. It would be way cheaper for me to lose weight than the car. It’s weird, I’d been at 140 for a long time then I busted out the scale the other day and to my surprise I am now 150, wtf. Time to start running again.
The crx rack is too short, but a civic one will fit? An EF rack?
I just realized I sold my valve body internals for .50$ so poo on this idea inless osmeone send sme theirs =p.
I just did this mod and remvoed all the guts out, including the extra big ass 4 way valve and another pin. Really easy to pull the valve body off the rack. Kinda a bitch tho to line up the 0-rings and orificises tho afterwards lol. But got all my lines looped and breather on now. saweet… no diea how well it works yet as there is no engine or brake lines! :bang:
Thanks for the writeup!
Why did you take all that stuff out, I just posted a write up on how to put it all back together. With the internals out of the valve body there will be play in the steering.
Oh crap haha I jsut re-read this thread. I don’t know how I missed it lol. damn I guess I’ll ahve to drop it and install the stuff back in.
This is lame, someone offered me the internals for 20$. If anyone wants to help a fellow g2icer out, let me know. :roll:
i’d have 'em in the mail already if i hadn’t tossed 'em over a year ago. 
sowwy mang.
Yea, I’ll just wait until one of you ballers switches to a quaife rack and sends em to me 
.
I reinstalled the aprts into my rack last night 
If you guys really want the rack aprts why not jsut get some at autowreckers… lol. or at those pick n pulls
^Word. Went to Bloomfield NJ and got the valve internals, 5 finger discount.
I just need to install the big ass thing thats dead center, correct?
Goes off to look at the writeup
you gotta istnallt eh large 4 way valve shaft with both pins and 4 slugs and 4 sprigns. essentially. your only taking uot 2 long sprigns and 2 smaller shafts
i just finished the looping of the lines. i test drove the car and i could hardly steer, even at speeds over 30. i removed all of the lines,pump,cooler,etc. on the system. i looped the lines as per this write up. if i “t” into one of the loops, to add a breather will that help my problem? if feels like it’s fighting the remaining fluid in the rack. i was going to remove the guts in the valve body, but now everyones saying to leave it in. if i would lower the car and open one of the loops and turn the wheels, would this pump out the remaining fluid?
i need my car back together by tommorrow, and could use some advice!
thanx!!!
you have something wrong. even with jstu removing the PS belt. it’s damne asy to turn the wheel over 5-10mph. I would bleed alot of the fluid out.
cool, i bleed some out, see if that helps…thanx! i should have the car down right, so theres weight on the wheels?
thanx again.
weight isn’t really important. just the action of turning the steering wheel left and right will push the fluid out.
ok, i bled it, and it seems alot better now.
also, if you add a breather/catch can too the setup, what keeps the fluid from squirting out of the catch can when you turn the wheel. i would think it would suck it down then sqirt it out when you turn ya know…i’m debating if i need to add this or not…do you gain easier steering from this at all?
thanx for the help!