was just reading through the helms.
the part that apparently effects the play in the steering is called a ‘4-way valve.’ it’s strange that it would effect steering without fluid in the rack because it’s job is to essentially move the fluid so that you can steer.
i’m curious… all of you that had problems with play in the steering wheel because this 4-way valve was removed… was your rack completely empty?
my hypothesis is that if the rack is totally empty, taking out the valve will not effect play. i don’t see any reason for taking it out though. i also don’t see a reason for taking out the other 2 valves (pressure control and gain control).
i dont know why either…lol. i just read the original thread, removed all the guts from the valve body, had annoying play in the wheel, read swedboy’s write up and replaced what he said. it feels much better now thats all i can tell ya.
Without removing the valves and simply draining the fluid I was able to steer, but still ahd a good deal of initial tightness…pulling everything out noticeably made it easier to turn the wheel from a stop.
I drained it all out, and then added about 2 shotglasses worth. Some dripped out I am sure, but is sitting good now. Not a lot, but JUST IN CASE it’s in there. I also filled the VSS unit on the tranny to the brim, and let it squeeze out the extra.
i went to a guy today that specializes in racks and he said that the power steering fluid in a rack made for power steering does indeed lubricate the gearbox. in a manual rack he said it is packed with grease. so it seems that some fluid needs to be left in the rack.
i recommend everyone has at least a few drops of fluid in there…
example - i have NO fluid in my valve body right now, or lines or anything its just dry. it makes a creaking noise, you can just hear the metal rubbing inside the valve body.
before anyone reminds how stupid that is, i work all day and havent had time or energy to loop n lube :down:
wait i removed/ looped the lines a week ago, didnt remove any valves or drain anything all the way out, which im going to because its harder to turn it how it is now that with just the belt removed. idk why, but it is. And does anyone have pics of this so called vss, i didnt loop any lines up there either, and what does that do? or can anyone just tell me where it is.
Life as a delivery driver would be so much easier if i wasnt trying to steer a brick house. But the good side, building up some muscles.
well apparently the VSS is on the back of the tranny, and should have two ps fluid lines going to it, and i believe its right next to your speedo cable.
i believe it stands for variable speed sensor. it basically tells your car how much steering assist to give. in our cars, the amount of assist given is dependent on the speed of the car.
also… i went to the this rack guy and he offered to turn a stock DA rack into a manual rack for 150 dollars… does this sound like a good idea? im a real big fan of reliability, especially something as important as the rack.
Has this thread meant nothing to you? Why not save your $150 and DYI. You’ve got great testimonials right here! I did mine last weekend. All I have left to do is remove the hard lines and test drive! Not hard!
because there are a lot of variables like pressure build-up if there is no breather, knowing how much ps fluid is in the rack, etc etc etc…
the reason i would possibly consider having it made for me is because you get the advantage of the quick turn ratio (without swapping in a manual w/ aftermarket gears) and the reliability of a stock rack.
o0o I get it now, those lines go into the tranny and depending on how fast the wheels or tranny is moving depends on how much assist to give you.
Isnt that the point of getting rid of the P/S in the first place? No assist. I’ve had mine looped for 2 weeks and no probs. So why do i need it? to get help turning the wheel? why dont i just hook the p/s back up.
IMO, I dont find it neccissary to loop those lines. As to actually loop the rack lines. Maybe I,m wrong.
o0o, If those arent looped will it cause a problem with the transaxle speed pulser?
IMO, I dont find it neccissary to loop those lines. As to actually loop the rack lines. Maybe I,m wrong.
it just helps to keep dirt out. it’s important to loop the vss b/c it’s where your speedo cable is! i’m pretty sure the vss is the “vehicle speed sensor”
Well could not having them looped be messing woth the transaxle speed pulser
are you talking about the two pin sensor that connects to the p/s line from the pump? if so, it won’t effect anything to just unplug it and leave it hang.
i think code 9 = do a 5spd swap… that’s what i did…
anyway, i don’t think that is the problem because that part apparently gets its signal from the wheels, not the rack or power steering. you can troubleshoot though, page 14-55. it’s not the same part as the vss.
