im thinking f selling the gsr to get this…i just dont wanna buy something thats not reliable for everyday driving and i dont know too much about turbos…will this be a reliable setup if i dont get boost happy and dont drive it hard all of the time? let me know..thanks.
'89 Honda CRX Si
mods–
124,xxx miles on body
black, very few scrathes & rust spots
0 (ZERO miles on engine!!!
fully built D16z6 SOHC VTEC motor
JE race pistons, 10.2:1 C/R, +.020 bore
Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods
ported & polished head
full Skunk2 valvetrain
Zex camshaft
Zex cam gear
Edelbrock wet NOS kit
custom turbo kit
T3/T4 hybrid turbo
Fmax intercooler piping
Vortech FMU
cartoys intercooler
HKS racing BOV (good to 44psi)
TiAL 35mm 0.5 bar wastegate
Greddy exhaust
Suspension
Skunk2 Short shifter
X brand coil overs
Tokico non-adjustable shocks
Neuspeed front upper strut bar
Electronics.
HKS Type V turbo timer
some crappy head unit but it works
blown speakers
MSD SCI-L ignition
MSD 2-step module
Interior
Del Slo seats
ghetto-fabulous paint on plastic panels
Sparco steering wheel.
$5000 – if you don’t like the price, keep it to yourself. Thanx.
I will include my black GSR “swirly” rims if bought at listed price.
this is exactly what the guy selling it said…thanks and let me know.
sounds like ur purchasing an exsplosive device let alone a car. sounds weird the guy could part the thing out and get more than 5k easy. 10.2 comp with turbo and nitrous??? did the guy hook it up and decide not to run it???seems odd to me and i see no good EMU (hondata AEM zdyne) id say no its not reliable but id buy it to part it out . use pieces of the turbo kit on my DA9 and sell the car with the d16z in it. PS i didnt know a DC short shifter was apart of the suspension
well the guy blew the motor on purpose because it was buring mass amounts of oil and decided to build the motor…the motor is not even in the car yet and he has to sell the car now because he bought a tt supra…so you think the car is just gonna blow up? so what do you think i should do? keep the g2 gsr or sell it and buy this and treat it nicely except for the occasional floorage? please people let me know. thanks, Nate
You take risk when u buy anything modded, thats why stock cars have a better resale value on the average. You dont know where the cars been and its hard to KNOW that those parts are in there without cracking it open. Id go check it out if i were you. Seems like their is enough parts there that you might have something to look at. personally id try to grab the air pump(t3/t4) and the Tial 35mm. Thats just what id do if u have an interest in getting the CRX I guess go for it.
do it man. just be warned, buying anything modded is a risk. but keep it down if you buy it, ditch the n2o and make sure you get that thing on a dyno for tuning.
yeah i wanna buy it but i dont wanna buy a car thats gonna break down everyday…so i was consulting you guys as to whether or not this will be a reliable setup with the way that i plan on driving it…plus its gonna be hard to part with my 92 gsr…anyways let me know what you think. thanks again, Nate
from what it sounds like this is gonna be ur ONLY car id strongly advise sticking with the gsr. if u had a back up car thats one thing but driving some ticking time bomb to work isnt very responsible in the sense u know its built for kill. sorry if this isnt what u wanted to hear but i dont want to advise on something that will hurt u in using ur car for transportation to work/school.
ok so the setup isnt reliable enough for everyday driving? even if i dont spray and dont abust the car? thats what i figured…but to me it seems like a lot of boosted cars arent reliable enough for everyday driving…is this true? if not, what is making the crx so unreliable? please let me know. thanks, Nate
couple guys have turbo hondas that last couple years and still going. but that doesnt compare to a 12 year old teg with 166k and showing signs of another 50k. but im sure theyve had problems on the way. the second u start to change the car from stock the reliability of honda is out the window. those sleeves are meant for boost, the tranny and axles/cv joints werent meant for those HP numbers. i plan on boosting my teg but not without a back up motor and possibly by then a truck. u just cant rely on someone elses word to get u to work everyday. if YOU built this car and u were comfortable that u built it right is one thing. but u didnt and assuming u dont know this guy from anywhere its hard to even guess. id say ur taking a chance. but if u have a secondary car u can drive then its not so bad. if ur concerned with reliability, and without confirmation that that motor was built right, id stick with the teg. besides the teg looks better IMO:p even though it might not be quicker. then again i dont know ur complete situation im just judging from what u have said. you want a reliable car and u dont know much about turbo cars.
I consider my car reliable enough to drive 60 miles to work everyday. But, I wouldn’t let my wife take a trip to Washington with my 2yr old son, though.
The setup SOUNDS great, however, a fully built engine by an unknown engine builder(a guy you are just buying a car from) is of course going to raise doubts about reliability. Especially an FI car.
Bottom line, if your looking for something that is only going to need gas and oil every so often, get something else. If you want to take on a project car or maybe part it out for some extra cash and buid your own setup- go for it. GL
ok heres the deal…this is what made me not want to buy the crx…the guy that is doing the work used to work at this one shop and a lot of people said that he screws up peoples cars…since then he has quit that shop and has just opened up his own shop and thats where the work to the crx is being done…ive talked to a lot of people around me about this and they said this guy just got a bad rep from the last shop…and the guy im buying the car from it turns out i knew him a few years ago…and he used to have a turbo’d g3 that he used as a daily driver…so to me it seems like he knows what needs to be done in order to turbo a car and allow it to be your daily driver…but the thing that worries me is that the guy working on the car has screwed up before and whos to know he doesnt do it again? any feedback is welcome. thanks. Nate
I’ve always liked the saying “fast, cheap, reliable, pick any two”. Seems like the car is too questionable for it to be a good car for reliable transportation. It could very well be reliable, but there’s a good chance it isn’t as well, and if you don’t know how to religiously maintain it, it will quickly become unreliable. Since reliability seems to be your ultimate goal, I’d stick with a reliable car as close to stock as possible. I’m also not a fan of fmu’s for engine management for a turbo, just seems too crude and unreliable for good engine management. Just my .02 though
No. You don’t understand. Nothing will help that beast.
It was put together by a guy who already has a bad rep.
10.2:1 compression, and he expects to run boost & spray n2o? Hes obviously an idiot.
No ECU control.
The previous engine was burning tons of oil, so he blew it out? What kinda guy just blows apart engines, cus they burn oil? You know you gotta pull the engine to replace it with a new one… so you might as well pull the engine while its still somewhat okay, and replace the rings, and sell it. Why blow it up? Hes obviously dumb, and I would never trust that car.
Just reading about that makes me more & more irritated. He left out some MAJOR links in the chain, that will not be fun/easy to take care of. If the engine is already in the car, then you gotta pull the thing to put lower compression pistons in. Ugh. WHY?! I dont understand why you’re even still thinking about it.
sicne the compression is high take out the turbo and run it with the just the nos. High compression works good with nos. You can be anti-F&F but nos setups are fast, if done right they’re reliable too.
Originally posted by Ray sicne the compression is high take out the turbo and run it with the just the nos. High compression works good with nos. You can be anti-F&F but nos setups are fast, if done right they’re reliable too.
are u insisting turbo and high compression dont work well but n2o and high comp do?
use pieces of the turbo kit on my DA9 and sell the car with the d16z in it. PS i didnt know a DC short shifter was apart of the suspension 