Think this thing is worthy of 13 second passes?

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
1

Yo, what I’ve got here is a 91 rs teg (stock curb weight is about 2550 pounds) and the following are being done:
-B16a engine and tranny swap
-CTR cams (thinking about using the CTR’s with B16a valvesprings)
-tanabe catback
-DC header 4-2-1 (might use another brand)
-short ram intake
-75hp wet shot

Here is the stuff that is done to the car:
-entire stereo and alarm removal (wiring, speakers, etc.)
-carbon fiber hood (still looking for one, but definitely a must)
-removal of spare tire crap

I just wanna surely run some 13’s. Should I expect better, or is this the fastest that it will go? I plan on putting this thing on a chassis dyno to see how it all works out. I want to get the car weighing around 2450 pounds. This is definitely going to be a daily driver.

2

:think:

3

im willing to bet low 14’s maybe high 13’s. my b18a with 20 less hp and a 75 shot only went 14.82. but i could be wrong. good luck with the setup.

4

With the death shot i will say yes. Running all motor not a chance.

5

slicks or drs and a sub 2.0 60 will give you a chance
street tires, I say no dice

6

^ what he said.

7

^^ what they said. The b16 is a torqueless POS I hate it. I can’t wait to finish my motor.

8

How about with 11.0:1 cr? I mean, the motor should be able to turn 8500 with better cams and springs, so I should be able to make power. I suppose that I am going to have to rely upon gear ratio for my torque. I want to run 13’s.

I plan on making my teg alot lighter. I don’t mean gutting it either. There is a shop with a DynoJet right down the road from where I live. I plan on running 13’s, and doing it reliably. I chose the B16a mainly since it can be wound up really high, and for the price (huh huh), you can’t really beat it.

9

if your going to do that why not just go for a ls/vtec?

10

Well, honestly, here’s why:

  1. I don’t have another LS motor readily available, and no I cannot take my cars LS motor out of service for that long.
  2. The B16 route is a cheaper route and I don’t have to worry about high rpm failure quite as much.
  3. Less money spent at a machine shop.
  4. A complete VTEC cylinder head with everything including the intake manifold is about the same price as a complete B16a engine with 35,000 miles on it.
  5. With the money left over that I save from not going the gsr route, I can put into building upon the B16a route. The outcome will be me outrunning the gsr route.

I am not directing this towards anyone, but less torque requires a numerically higher gear set. I think I can go 13’s with this thing. I’m a damned good driver and I know I am, so I think that 13’s is definitely attainable.

Any words of advice? I am very open to advice.

11

words of advice: nitrous = no no… turbo = makes b16 have lotsa torque. :slight_smile:

i turbo’d the b16 in my teg for a total cost of 350 bucks. :slight_smile:

12

What’s the chances of me being able to do that?

Let’s be honest here, no matter how feasible turbocharging may be on the surface, it always has its downfalls. Here’s some of the hazards:
-hacking up the front clip of my car to make room for turbo setup.
-running a smaller capacity radiator
-hours and hundreds of dollars worth of ecu development
-I would need a large cash pool to buy replacement parts in case of failure.
-and the list goes on.

Do I really need this on a daily driver? I don’t need these kinds of problems. It would be cool if I didn’t have to drive and average of 50-60 or sometimes more miles every day. In fact, I would probably have already gone the turbo route if it wasn’t for the daily driving situation. I know that I cannot outrun a turbo car, but I can get at least close to some of them.

I do understand what everyone is trying to say though. Definitely not a misunderstanding at all.

13

why couldnt it be a daily driven car ? plenty of turbo cars are daily driven, it shouldnt be what stops you from doin it.

14

maybe someday i’ll go turbo, but for now, it’s NA with a rare dose of nitrous.

I’m just not in a hurry to cut up the front of my car. I did notice however, that full-race sells a kit that doesn’t require the removal of A/C. I don’t know how they can get away with this, but I am really curious.