I currently have a JDM B20B with approximately 55 000 KM on it in my 92 GS. And this summer I was thinking about turbocharging it, now this car is just my daily driver keep in mind so I’m definitely not looking to spend tonnes of money on this if I do it. I was wondering if I did ARP head bolts and rod bolts then got a turbo kit off ebay like the rev-speed one so that it actually has a cast iron manifold with a good wastegate position not a piece of crap stainless steel one with bad location. How reliable a setup like that would be. I’m not looking to make crazy power or spend crazy money I just want to have a decent setup for a decent price.
Yea its a beaten-to-death topic but here it goes…
B20b not the greatest engine to boost but can be done…
If your looking for a cheap,reliable daily driver…keep it as is and dont turbo it.
If your serious about going FI’d, read up on the g2ic turbo guide. I got most of my information from there and also i searched quite a few on other sites. Reading up on the process goes a long way. But yea this topic has been covered plenty of times. Just search a little.
A decent AND reliable setup would be:
-t3 turbo
-cast iron mani(since thats what you want)
-intercooler w/piping
-bov
-injectors and bigger fuel pump
-fuel/engine management system
-2.5"-3" exhaust(incl. downpipe)
Your looking @ about at least 1000-1500. You can find some of these parts used to save some money i guess.
All in all, turbocharging is gonna cost you some money. Im not really sure what your looking to pay.
But yea…you gotta pay to play
oh i was looking to spend about $2000 CDN on the whole deal. Basically I wanna build a reliable setup without having to upgrade internals like forged pistons and all that stuff. if thats possible
Yes, it’s possible. The hardest part about doing what you’re after, is having the discipline to keep yourself from turning up the boost once all is said and done. The most important part is getting you car tuned once everything thing is installed, so you don’t blow up your motor and waste all that time and money. With turbo parts, you get what you pay for. If you buy cheap ebay parts, they aren’t going to last. If you want to cut costs, and have reliability, look for used OEM turbo parts from other cars. For example: DSM injectors, 1st gen DSM BOV, DSM side-mount intercooler, a turbo from any factory turbo car (careful, some are VERY small). These parts can be found for very little money, and were designed to last a long long time.
The two costs you overlooked are engine management and a clutch. Don’t cheap out on a clutch, it will make you hate driving your car. And engine management doesn’t have to be expensive. If your car is OBD0, download BRE. If your car is OBD1, download CROME. They are both great FREE programs for tuning, the only thing you pay for is the chipping kit and some addtional hardware if you chose to tune yourself. Spend several hours reading at pgmfi.org if you want to understand DIY tuning techniques. And as previously stated, read the G2ic turbo guide.
I’m currently reading through the G2IC turbo guide and I’ve been on pgmfi.org a lot before and I’m going to start hitting them up more often now too.
I already have a chipped P08 ECU, its a re-burnable chip, right now its chipped to run the JDM B20B which is internally stock. I have a datalogger cable and I’ve got CROME, I’ve played around with it before, obviously not actually changing any settings just seeing stuff.
The main thing is definitely not blowing up my engine. So I was thinking get ARP head studs and ARP rod bolts. Then like Da1spax247 is suggesting get my hands on some parts from DSMs and then get the rest of the parts I need and put it all together get it tuned and see how it goes. I don’t have a goal that I have to meet or I won’t be happy or anything like that. I was only thinking of running like 6 or 7 PSI.
I’m really wondering about the ARP bolt upgrades now. What exactly is standard in upgrading from this company, I keep hearing head studs and rod bolts, is that correct? I wanna do these very soon whether I turbo my B20 or not, just for the extra security, I hear they’re a very good idea to do with a B20. What exactly is involved with the process is it possible to do with the engine still in the car?
for the rod bolts and head studs you hafta tear the engine apart you can leave it in the car but it a pain in the ass