Wow, just adjusted my steering rack, and everyone else should too. Info here:
could you tighten up mine?
:hmm:
i have no place to work on my car 
but i dont even understand where to tighten the bolts
My steering wheel also has alot of play in it. Anyone have a real pic of where this 14mm bolt is?
Guys, this is not very hard at all. Climb under the car and find the steering rack. On the driver’s side there is the valve, which has about 4 thin metal tubes going into it, and is protected by a metal plate. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding on the plate, and take that off. Under the tangle of tubes you will see a 14mm bolt with a big 40mm locknut around it. Loosen the 14mm, and the 40mm should come with it. Now use some pliers to hold the 40mm while you re-tighten the 14mm. When it gets all the way tight, back it off 1/6 turn. Tighten the 40mm down as much as you can by hand or with the pliers. Lastly, tighen the 14mm- the 40 should snug up with it, and the whole thing is all tight and ready to go.
HTH!
Jeff
did it yesterday night…the shit helps a fuckton
Hmm…Still hoping we could get a pic or something there 
i want a pic too, now from this thread, my steering feels really loose now
Just a quick question! So the middle bolt (14mm) is what i loosen first and the 44mm locking nut will loosen along with it? I tried using a open end and a socket wrench and nothing seems to break that 14mm nut loose. Today i am going to loosen my sway bar so i can get a better angle at this bolt. After i removed all my lines, removed all my internals in the rack and looped the 4 lines my steering wheel has so much loose play in it its dangerous to drive.
thanks, aaron
~Gah, same issue. Did it help you? ^^
I finally loosened the middle 14mm bolt and tightened as well as i could. Made a little dirrenence but theres plenty of loose play still in the wheel. So im thinking that my inner tie rods are toast. Ive already replaced my outer tie rods so that cancels that out. Im just going to man up and buy a whole new rack and be done with my loose steering all together.
I’d still love a picture of what were talking about…Someone with a Digicam post some pics of this!
archivethis
Excellent, this explains it quite well. Going to try it tomorrow.
i’m beginning to think the conversion to manual steering has something to do with the play in the wheel. i’ve had the exact problem as you ever since i removed all those things from the valve body in the rack… well this weekend i installed -
- a rebuilt rack with new inner tie rods
- new outer tie rods
- prothane master bushing kit
- got an alignment
and i still have that shitty play in the wheel. i wish i never tried that manual steering conversion because now i can’t go back unless i buy all new hard lines and re-install them which would take fucking forever. if i jack the front of the car up and move the tire back and forth, i can hear the same ‘clunk’ noise from the rack and it moves a bit…
oh yea, before i removed the stuff from the valve body on the new rack, it felt really tight like there was no play in it at all. i was playing with it for a while before i installed it.
i think i may just buy a civic/crx manual rack and sell this rebuilt one (with all the shit installed back in the valve body of course) i’m tired of fucking with this car
time to buy a new car, im tired of working on my car also lol, but im stuck with mine
Has anyone ever did this? And does it work? Need input thanks.
Did u not read anything… Yes it does work many many people have done it before
uhh yeah I did. That was last years info. Wanted to know some opinions this year. If It didn’t give anybody latent problems presently. Aight?