To All The K-Series Nut Huggers...

No its not the whole point.

I’m just using ONE as an example. That was at I.A. with the original owner. So having a K-pro now is not a proper tune? Why run kpro at all? Isnt that the point? hmm…

Well which chassis do you think I meant for? After all this is G2ic… not G3ic or EJic…

Then let me reiterate… swapping a G2 is never “worth it.” A K swap is no less “worth it” then a GSR motor or an H22.

Another question to all:

Why would you want to swap a motor that:

A: is high priced
B: needs custom motor mount brackets

This is an all around motor discussion. Not which is more superior. Talking about practicality for all the G2 Guys.

I agree that the motor is a great platform to build from IF you have the time and money for it.

how do you figure that? please explain

Usually the “which parts are better” arguments can be boiled down to performance numbers. Granted, you have other considerations, like cost, fuel economy, etc. So “which cams are better, X or Y” can boil down to which ones make more power, and if they’re more expensive, are they worth the money.

But “which honda is a better platform for X motor, a G2 integra or a 4th gen civic/CRX” will either always be answered by which one is lighter, or “the G2 is heavier but I like it better.” Once you’ve inserted that element of aesthetics, comfort, or whatever else makes you think a heavier car is in some ways better, then you’ve left the realm of comparing the two by any quantitative values. Which is fine, I’ve own both obviously, and I’m not knocking the decision. But after picking the fatter platform, it’s sorta stupid to quibble about anything after that. IMO, it then all comes down to:
Q: what’s a better swap for a G2, a H22, a K24, or a B18C
A: either do whatever you feel like or pick a different platform

You can probably take that a bit further and argue that Hondas are terrible platforms to begin with, but that’s another thread.

the 6 speed tranny is about all it has going for it.

[QUOTE=steronz;1835475]Usually the “which parts are better” arguments can be boiled down to performance numbers. Granted, you have other considerations, like cost, fuel economy, etc. So “which cams are better, X or Y” can boil down to which ones make more power, and if they’re more expensive, are they worth the money.

But “which honda is a better platform for X motor, a G2 integra or a 4th gen civic/CRX” will either always be answered by which one is lighter, or “the G2 is heavier but I like it better.” Once you’ve inserted that element of aesthetics, comfort, or whatever else makes you think a heavier car is in some ways better, then you’ve left the realm of comparing the two by any quantitative values. Which is fine, I’ve own both obviously, and I’m not knocking the decision. But after picking the fatter platform, it’s sorta stupid to quibble about anything after that. IMO, it then all comes down to:
Q: what’s a better swap for a G2, a H22, a K24, or a B18C
A: either do whatever you feel like or pick a different platform

You can probably take that a bit further and argue that Hondas are terrible platforms to begin with, but that’s another thread.[/QUOTE]

i dunno but ive owned an 93 civic cx, 90 crx, 90 hatch and so on and i say the more sturdy of the cars has to be the da. people look at weight as a comparison but in actuallity the da isnt much heavier than the rest of the cars. 2 to 3oo lbs counts for something but you can easily get a da down to the weight of an eg.

or 1.5 k

doesn’t the crx hf weigh 1800 lbs? a DA is never going to come close to that.

First off wtf is this about having to make your own custom motor mounts for a k series in the DA?

Innovative already has them for both the 90-91 and 92-93 models for only $428.
http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=99350

Hmotorsonline has the k20a type-r motor with 6 speed lsd tranny and ecu which is good for 220hp and 158tq for $5499
6-speed LSD Tranny 4.7 Final Drive (Y2M3)

  • ECU (PRC) or (PRD)
  • Stock Motor Mounts *
  • Alternator
  • Starter
  • Clutch
  • Flywheel
  • Intake Manifold
  • Exhaust Manifold with downpipe
  • Fuel Rail
  • Injectors
  • Coil Pack
  • Engine Harness
  • Half Shaft
  • Shifter Cables and Shifter box (Add $150)
  • Comes With All Sensors Needed

Hmotorsonline also has the 98+ type-r motor and tranny and ecu with 200hp and 134tq for $4500

  • Motor
  • LSD Hydraulic Tranny (S80)
  • ECU (P73)
  • Alternator
  • Starter
  • Clutch
  • Flywheel
  • Intake Manifold
  • Exhaust Manifold
  • Fuel Rail
  • Injectors
  • Distributor
  • Engine Harness
  • Comes With All Sensors Needed

So now off the get go I will have +20hp and +24tq plus a 6 speed tranny and then also .2 more displacement which makes a difference when it comes to anything that adds HP with the k20 for $1000 more.

I want to do this and will have the money to easily do this swap at the end of this year, but I want to build on a chassis platform that is better then the DA. I still am debating doing this and leaving the motor stock just to say I have it done and use it as my DD then work on picking up a DC or an EG and do the same thing building a track rat. I am also debating going with a 240 and doing a rb swap, but the parts for that are much harder to get as of right now here in the states. Maybe in about 5 more years as the market gets flooded with more people building nissans there will be more parts readily available at cheaper costs.

I have seen many people try to get over 200hp out of a ls-v which unless built right will not last and very very few have hit that mark even after sinking as much money on radicule cams, exhaust, tuning, IM,TB, P&P, B&B as this swap will cost you. And they have almost topped the motor capabilites out for all motor app plus being damn near or not even streetable. With this swap you are starting at 220hp and 154tq with a mild cam in respects to the type-r cams and type-r headers and drives like a normal car till WOT. Put an extra $2000 and you will easily net 40-50hp and 20-30tq. Now you are at 260 hp and 180tq, have the numbers alot of turboed b series around town are making and have the response of all motor without being a PITA to drive round town and much better reliabilty.

Now this is my opinion and my $.02. But for me,both platforms, minus the 240, will have a k swap in it sooner or later. One will be a mild all motor DD, and the other will be a built all-motor. For right now the parts available in craigslist, ebay, junkyards, are in favor of the b’s, but in 10 years it wont be like that. Honda had a good run with the b’s, but they have moved on and if you dont, you are just going to fall behind the rest of the people that are actually wanting to win.

P.S. I am not a k series nut hugger, I just look at the facts

It IS possible to make 400-500 hp out of a turbo B series, I’ve seen it myself

It IS possible to make 400-500 hp out of a turbo B series, I’ve seen it myself

:lol:
I hope you are not directing this towards me, because no where in my post did I state that you cant. I just stating that the b series motors are going to start to become a thing of the past, plus the rewards from a k series will always trump a b series if you compare doing the same things to them. It just costs a little bit more to get into a k series most of the time. Plus you will never have the option of a 6 speed with the b’s.

If a b series swap and a k series swap cost exactly the same, most reasonable person would choose the k series. What it boils down to is, does the extra cost of the k series outweigh the benefits of the motor? Clearly, it is a superior motor/transmission combination, cost aside. Every day the cost of these motors comes further down, and is only going to continue to decrease with more and more motors being produced, and more and more k series vehicles being wrecked. 2 years ago, the benefits of the k series were outweighed by the cost; today, its a different story. Theres other factors such as wiring, linkages, axles, etc, that complicate the issue, but the fact remains that if you had the choice between the b and k, cost and effort aside, youd choose the k.

:clap:

K series in a G2 is not worth it, not when you can bolt in a B.

now in most other chassis, its worth it. i am building a new project, got rid of my DA, buying an 96-00 Civic Coupe (EJ8) and was going to build a motor for it. after doing ALOT of research i found that after a full all out build most B20-VTECS put out 215-230whp with ~145-155tq. an internally stock K20a2 (RSX Type-S engine, had for ~$3500 with trans, longblock, harnesses, ECU) with K-Pro, header, and intake are putting down the same whp as the built B20, but with 150-165tq.

fully built B20-Vtec, with headwork, good cams, fully built bottom end, high end header, intake mani port, TB, basically the works will run you over 6k with hondata and tuning.

K series swap to do it right will cost you around the same.

But heres the catch, your just starting with the K, but the B is maxed out.

and you also have stock honda reliabilty.

i really dont understand why this is even being talked about, the K series BLOWS away the B in potential. Stock K series heads Flow as much CFM as competition ported B series cylinder heads. if any of you know what your talking about when making power with a Honda engine, youll know power is made with the cylinder head.

and throw out the turbo argument, any asshole can make lots of power on ANY engine with a huge turbo and a large fuel system, this point is strictly for all-motor.

also throw out the H22 argument, you have to do all of the K Series install mods, minus a header and minor fuel system issues. for what? alot less potential, minimal aftermarket support. talk about not being worth it anymore, H swaps are going to be a real quick thing of the past.

People…they are now making over 300whp NA with K24’s on PUMP GAS. if thats not impressive i dont know what is. No B-series has ever made over 300 on PUMP. yes they have on race gas but not pump gas.

Why is G2IC is the ONLY place I see the K-Series Engine flamed like that???

When someone come here with his DA that have 18inch wheels and giant aluminium wing. Everyone says:
“I don’t like, but if you like it that way, I don’t have any problems with that”

Now if some just ask a questions about K-Serie, the guy is flamed to hell and people start thread to say that K-Series suck!

What’s the point of it??? :bang:

The best of it is that there almost to no Da with a K-Swap… Nobody have true proof that it’s not worth it.

Edit: I’m sure this thread will be close soon anyway… there’s “K-Serie” in the title

[QUOTE=Silchuki14;1835618]
What’s the point of it??? :bang:

The best of it is that there almost to no Da with a K-Swap… Nobody have true proof that it’s not worth it.

Edit: I’m sure this thread will be close soon anyway… there’s “K-Serie” in the title[/QUOTE]

why not?

Its fun to see people get worked up over the almighty K…

:lol:

I dont think its worth swapping a K in such a flexy chassis as the DA. I can jack the front end of my car up and with that my doors wont close normally. You wont be able to get the full potential out of it unless you do some major chassis reinforcement.

Not the same with my friend’s 00 civic or my other friend’s Evo.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Nobody from what I see is gettign worked up. All that I see is you making a fool of yourself. Any person that can read the stats and then actually comprehend what they are reading can see that it is a better motor… Its like comparing the ford straight 6 (289ci) to the ford 460. Geez I wonder which motor will generate the most horsepower and be reliable???