Yeah but it’s useless on a race track. An effective turbo will always be trumped by an NA motor, and on a B-series motor an effective turbo will only get you about 220-250whp. K-series will easily make that N/A. N/A > Turbo, always.
I love em both. Hence I got 1 of each. 
B-series is hotest on the streetz…the best motorout since honda release vtec.k-series is good too with i-vtec chain driven.both are potent realiable motors.
Does K-pro tune itself? If not, that’s like putting a “spoon” chip in an ECU for a B16 and saying that it is is tuned and going to improve performance. Anyway, the coversations I have heard involved it sounding like crap and everyone making fun of it, and the original owner stating that he had not done any tuning. If it was tuned, there probably would have been some dyno numbers floating around. He messed with enough parts to need a good tune. :shrug:
Another question to all:
Why would you want to swap a motor that:
A: is high priced
B: needs custom motor mount brackets
This is an all around motor discussion. Not which is more superior. Talking about practicality for all the G2 Guys.
I agree that the motor is a great platform to build from IF you have the time and money for it.
The stock B-series needs aftermarket mounts in my opinion. I’d gladly go H2B and swap a H23A VTEC (Euro R) with an ITR tranny in mine. A K24 with a Type R head and 6 speed would be nice, too. There is nothing better than a stock engine with some displacement. If my B20Z had VTAK, it could arguably keep up with a K20, but IMO, the B-series would not be worth me building when an H2B swap could get me the same or more power with more torque and better gas mileage and reliablity. If I didn’t have a budget, I’d probably be tossing a coin between the K24 swap mentioned above or being a little more unique with a K23 (turbo from the RDX).
A question that I have that can go along with topic that someone might be able to answer is what about the stroker kits that say they will bump the displacement up to 2.2 liters in a b18? Does anyone have any experience with them? Is so can you give a detailed review of it in the review forum? I have been contemplating this for a sleeper motor, but have not really read anything on it. If it is something that is reliable, they are alot cheaper then a k20 and have more displacement, but also a 6 speed would be fukin tits and win cool points in shows.
Have you ever heard of roller rockers, VTC, or the concept of a “square” engine?
What about reduced oil temperatures, a lighter overall engine, or better gas mileage?
The K-series engine is superior to the B-series. I mean, why wouldn’t it be? The newest B-series technology was developed in 1997. Technology tends to progress with Honda engines. With that said, it doesn’t mean that I think a K-swap belongs in a G2 Integra.
exactly!
when it comes to swapping motors into DA’s, nothing beats the tried and true B18C (PR3 ITR Head)
a K-Series engine is FAR superior, but considering the work it takes to get it to run correctly, you’ll spend almost triple the cost of an ITR B18C swap.
also, Patrick (tnd2gen) and his B18C powered DA was steadily stomping that DC2 Integra with the hybrid K24/K20 build (that made over 300WHP NA) that was in Honda Tuning last year.
the DA chassis just isn’t meant to have a K in it. i won’t flame those that do want to do it (for uniqueness etc.) and i will always admire someone for their work and dedication to get it done. but when its been PROVEN that a mildly built ITR swap in a DA can outrun a far superior chassis (DC2) with a heavily built K Frankenstein, on a circuit track, i think i’ll stick with the B in my DA 
perhaps if i had an EK hatchback :idea:
Ford never made a 289 straight 6. they did make a 289 v8 though.
The Straight 6 was a 300, and it put out really good torque, and was super reliable (for a Ford)
i havent read all 3 pages but i was looking at the times of track and i would like to say that the car was sold to a kid in Cleveland ohio. My freind has rode in the car and the guy had a 92 accord before he bought the integra. so you factor alot more power les weight car and right hand drive for someones first time isnt going to be a great number at the track. Now i have seen stock K20A2’s in eg chassis running mid 12’s. i like all honda motors and really dont care your opinions seeing im doing both a boosted B in my teg and an all motor K20 in my crx but the guy hasn’t got used to the car yet.
k20 (built right) > b20vtec (built just as right) Its not arguable. its like comparing d-series to b-series.
BTW, i’m not just a K-Series nut Hugger. I have one.
show me a B-Series that can make 220whp, 158TQ with just bolt-ons.* No internal work, reliable as any honda motor. Thats what i got mine for. I wanted to do simple bolt-ons, and make the power that the b-series guys make with high compression pistons and cams, port work, etc.
That moron with the K20 DA was clearly just a hardparker. he built that car for the nut huggers. not to drag race it. So the guy can’t drive, that doesnt say much about K-Series.
- 220 is with BOLT ONS ONLY! So don’t tell me about your friends that have GSRs with mugen head gaskets, nitrous, or CTR pistons…i didnt even have to open my valve cover to get this number.
I will also note that in a DA, i would go with a type r swap instead. It wouldnt be worth it in a DA. But when u compare the motors…you are wrong when u say that all they have is just the transmission.
All of what you say is true…but how would a K-swap in an ED Civic like yours be any different than the swap in the DA?
Other than the weight difference between the two chassis, the cost of the swap, the labor involved, and the rigidity of the chassis are the same. How is it not worth it in a DA, but worth it in your ED?
I understand the differences between my ED chassis or a DA and a EJ8 or DC2. But I built this car to have FUN and not ever worry about reliability. I want it to haul ass*, handle great, have badass interior and look good. I do plan on running at the drag strip once or twice this summer, and i also plan on running at a road race day also. But i am not competing, i just wanna have fun.
not worth it in a DA because it’d run 14’s. It wouldnt meet my criteria (noted above with a star). Plus i have an ugly ass DA that runs great, is reliable and gets me to and from work everyday. Then i picked up a CRX with a worn out engine, great paint/body. of the two cars, i picked what i thought was the best option for the powerplant. I’ll get more for my money, and still have an awesome 1.8l non-vtec daily driver.
if you have money to blow an get the k on good deal it’s worth it.da weigh less then rsx i don’t know what the guy is talkin about:lol:
i use to drive the k and the b compared it.they not much of differents.
Oh my god you’re an idiot.
you’re stupiid!!thats like comparin b18c againts the k20r and the b18c still cameout on top.like i said they not much of different.
Can you speak of english?
im comparing a CRX to a DA integra. i didnt mention anything about a DC5 RSX chassis.