To boost or not to pleeeease

here is the dilemma: i am going to be getting a loan here pretty soon and do not know which way to go…i got an estimate for a turbocharger for my stock b18 non vtec (about 2000 complete-plumbing, stainless manifold, I/C, garret turbo, and wastegate), now this does not include any install, which i know a great deal can be done by myself with the exlusion of tuning…now here is where i am usure. should i take this deal? or should i just swap in a JDM b16 w/ LSD. i figure the two should run about neck and neck in pricing, so i figured i should ask my teg bros & sis’ for opinions. keep in mind that it is my everyday drive vehicle so i need facts on reliability (to take me everywhere i go: school, work, etc.), durability (to withstand the hot PHX, AZ summers!), and most of all…the COOLEST!!! any opinions, facts, and pics are more than welcome!!! thanks again.

In my opinion,

This will depend on how well you can maintain the car. The B16 is obviously a more maintenance-friendly engine than a turboed B18. If you have the resources, time, & know-how to properly keep a turbo healthy then the B18 (I think) is your best bet.



could you be more specific about the maintinance required with the turbo… for boost around 7 psi? thanks… josh.

Originally posted by integdrag
could you be more specific about the maintinance required with the turbo… for boost around 7 psi? thanks… josh.

I’m basing my experience on owning an Eagle Talon TSI. Same rules should apply to any turboed car. All normal preventative maintenance intervals such as…

  • oil change
  • fuel filter change
  • air filter change
  • spark plug change
  • coolant change

…are increased. So, if you were accustomed to changing your oil every 5000km, you now have to change it every 3000km (for example). A constant monitor on your boost level is a must, and pretty much every vacuum-type hoses (EGR, etc.). Intercooler needs cleaning now-and-again (at least once a year or every 24000km). Turbo itself needs to be rebuilt every 100000km for optimum performance. Proper turbo cool-down is a must to prevent oil coking (burning?). Please keep in mind that you are force-inducing an engine that is not technically built to handle any boost. So, every engine component is even more stressed and will wear faster.

The Mitsubishi 4G63 that is commonly found in the 1G DSMs were built to handle up to 400+HP with stock internals. The B18s are obviously not as strong.



Go with the turbo. After you get it you’ll wonder why you thought your car was fast without it. If you properly build your system it will be as reliable as if it were NA…

do a compression/leakdown check if you haven’t already and go turbo if your compression numbers are good. B16 is probably the most reliable upgrade but FI is a much better power upgrade. I would prefer a LS/VTEC to a B16 upgrade, not sure if that would put you over budget though.