I’ll edit this as I go, but this is day 1. I have a b17a1 with a bad piston. Very small nick. I have the original YS1 or whatever tranny. Installed is a B18B1 with a B16 transmission. (I don’t know the real terminology, sorry) Cam with some shitty MSD ignition that needs reinstalled. The valve cover is off and the timing belt is loose. I haven’t torn into yet.
What it has…
RS-R exhaust
Goodridge brake lines
Koni Yellows
Some random intake
3 intake manifolds, I don't even know...
Full gasket sets
Skunk2 or knock off type r shift knob
fancy speakers
Battery in trunk... looks like shit
Ordered and not install
Open Ended Lug Nuts (car came with a total of 14, and that aint right)
ARP Extended Studs (I don't trust 20+ year old bolts on the track...)
More to come! If you know anyone who needs DB2 parts, point them to me!
Updates: 12.16.14 The mess I’m dealing with and the car’s new/finished home and cell mate…
Fantastic come up man, great starting point for a track car, just sucks the paint is horrible. Sell the RS*R, spoiler, interior and engine and you’ll be able to get a good start on funding your build. If the shocks are good then you can just start tracking those, otherwise you can simply send them to Koni to have them rebuilt (possibly to the RACE spec valving + shorten them a little). If you have them rebuilt and go with the RACE valving you’ll basically be getting shocks for half what they’re worth.
There’s the one thing I can’t bring myself to tackle yet. My paint is horrible and the whole car needs a respray. I hate tha it looks so bad but don’t want to pay the $2-3k+ for paint. When faced with the choice of saving money for paint or just buying go fast parts and seat time the later wins every time. I’ll have to get around to it eventually though
The RSR is way too heavy and too quiet for a track car I’ve been wanting to get rid of mine for a couple of years now. A custom KTeller with Burns mufflers would be ideal I think
It’s huge and the car sits really low as is. We had a hell of a time getting it off the trailer. Also, what muffler? Why do I need a muffler? I checked the RTA’s and they look to be solid units. Every gasket set that I had sitting in my RockAuto shopping cart was found in the trunk of the car, so I consider that a win. I’m going to try to get it on the lift Monday, see if I can’t get it to the point where it will run. I need a couple dumb things, like a passenger side mirror glass, windshield, hood, probably new headlights, and once the timing belt is tightened up, I’ll charge it and see if she turns over.
Any idea whether the b18b1 (94) and b17a1 use the same distributor? I have an MSD one in the car, not installed. Not sure if I just throw it in and then adjust later on.
The B17 looks like it has an aluminum flywheel on it. I’m assuming that there is one in the transmission that is on the car. I’ll post up more pictures once I get it on the lift. Maybe some of you can help identify some of the parts. I also want to check the springs that are on it. Car also has a 4-1 (I think) header. Looks pretty different from what I’m used to. Also, looks like someone may have done the legend upgrade on the brakes. I’ll get pictures once I pop the wheels off. Has drilled and slotted rotors which will need to go for obvious reasons. I used to use Brembo blanks on these cars, but I’ve also heard good things about Centric lately.
Any recommendations on parts to mount the battery on the passenger side in the trunk? It’s just some standard junk battery. May go with a lawnmower battery or something. (Any recommendations?)
I’m going to need to find someone who welds in Houston. There’s a lot of small stuff I play on doing, but I don’t weld… Just design.
Muffler is totally optional, I drive my car to the track so I’d prefer it’s not insanely loud. I definitely want it louder than it is now with my RSR, but I’d like it quieter than no muffler or resonators or cat (I also run a cat on my car). Modified Buddy Club Spec II is another great option.
B18b and B17a do not use the same distributor, they’re both OBD1 (or OBD2 for 96+ b18b) but the dist housing is different. You can google for pics, but it has to do with the placement of the vtec solenoid. The guts are the same though, so you can use the igniter and coil from a non vtec dist and put them into a vtec dist. I’d get rid of that MSD unit immediately and I’d keep a spare coil on hand at all times.
Before you start doing anything with the battery I’d look at the rules. Some classes will not allow you to move the battery at all (ITA iirc). And others will require a battery box if you move it into the cabin (even for a sealed battery). All of that will obviously effect your plan of attack. I had an Odyssey PC680 and I really liked it. Any small battery like this though (and even a lot of full size ones) will require a trickle charger if you’re not using the car regularly. My odyssey finally died and I just replaced it but I’ve heard the new ones aren’t as good as the old, so I guess we’ll see what happens. There are also commercially available mounts for some of these batteries. Just google “PC680 mount” and a bunch should pop up.
So, I got some time to look at the car again this weekend. Looks like a wiring nightmare. Has some sort of screw on fuel pressure gauge. I think I’ll just put the oem banjo bolt back in. Looks like more of a liability than anything. Found out it had none of the hardware necessary for getting the intake manifold or exhaust manifold on. I bought some standard hardware to get them in place. The exhaust has been bolted up. The header that I thought was so crazy looking is stamped HyTech. I’m guess that this is a pretty good one? May be a bit overkill for a stock internal B18B1. I think the next steps will be to remove the AC to make more working room.
Here’s the two extra intake manifolds. If anyone can identify them, or tell me if one would be better to use, that would be cool. Also, I’m thinking that this stray wire hanging off of the back of the block is a temperature switch or something. Can anyone confirm?
And one of the many wiring issues. I may look up those tuck threads to see what I can remove and what I can keep. Also need to try getting rid of some of the emissions junk.
Pic of the fuel pressure gauge? Unless there’s something messed up I’d keep it. A fuel pressure gauge is an invaluable troubleshooting tool and IMO something you shouldn’t go without (especially considering they are so cheap and easy to install).
Not sure about the first manifold, obviously it’s stock and that likely means it’s not anything that awesome. The second one looks like it might be an ITR manifold which is what you want if you run a vtec engine but it won’t fit a non vtec head.
Hytech is a good header manufacturer, whether it’s what you want is another thing altogether. You should be able to look at pictures online to determine what version it is. I think they make a couple different designs and possibly even a couple options for primary or collector diameters.
As for that wire, it should be for the Engine Oil Pressure Switch (which is for the oil light in your gauge cluster and has no other function). This pic is from a 90-91 block, the b17a would only have the oil pressure switch and the oil temp switch, a b18b would only have the oil pressure switch.
Didn’t get a pic of the gauge. It looks like it was liquid filled and is now just cracked. So, if there are other screw on ones, maybe I’ll get one. If there is a preferred setup, I’ll do that too. Figure a fitting and some hose to the gauge, shouldn’t be too tough…
I guess this will e considered a slow build, but last night I tore out the majority of the AC. The PS is already looped, so that’s ok for now. I saw a thread where they were tearing the guts out of the PS rack and then using it as a manual. May consider doing that, not for ease of steering but for the little bit of weight saved. I also pulled out some of the cruise control stuff. Really looking forward to getting her to ‘ls’ weight.
Also through in a picture of the Hytech header. It looks like it has a minor dent in the bottom, but I think everyone’s header does…
I’d 100% suggest getting a fuel gauge. No need to go fancy unless you want to, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the type that screws onto the fuel filter. They’re affordable and accurate, and considering how helpful they are I think it’s a mandatory item for any track car. I have the B&M on my car: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-46054
Saw that you’re posting some stuff up for sale… if you don’t get some offers quickly I’d drop the prices a bit. $500 is quite a lot for a non-R pr3 head. Also looks like the b17a was boosted at some point unless there’s some other explanation for the oil return line on the oil pan.
Tell me about it… more helpful than most. This old forum isn’t nearly as busy as it used to be. I’m going to throw the FP gauge on my shopping list, but obviously there are a lot of other issues that need to be addressed first. I’m glad you mentioned it was boosted at one point. I assume that’s why the B17 is in the condition it’s in, but the guy I bought it from swore it hadn’t been. I really want to get the B18 running to see what condition it’s in. If it’s no bueno, I’ll probably be on the hunt for another… At this point, there’s quite a bit of play on the timing belt, on top of the cam gears. Since I rarely trust those before me’s work, I will be buying a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner/spring. I will redo that and pray for the best. I’m likely going to throw the battery back in the front again. Just to avoid any potential class issues. Maybe leave the wiring for another day.
I’ve decided on a lot of the safety equipment. I know, everyone is probably hoping for Type R seats, or bride, or something hip. I’ll be going UltraShield, here in texas. They’ll custom build seats for my body type, gimme the webbing (apparently when it goes out of date, they reweb for like $50 or so, beats buying harnesses every few years…), and do the window nets etc… Cage will be done by Lucas in Houston. Very reputable shop, but the pricing isn’t for the faint of heart.
Anyways, enough with the future plans… Nobody cares, they just want pictures.
Yeah, like the guys over on H-T were telling you… a quality cage is gonna be $3k+. Seems like a lot, but it’s also a lot of work. I encourage you to work as closely as you can with your builder so they do it exactly how you want it. Try to think about as much as possible before you get it in their hands. And even then you’re gonna get it and want to make changes (although it probably won’t be worth the effort.
That’s interesting about those seats, I’d never seen those before. I don’t have the experience to make a real judgement but I’ve never really liked those metal frame seats. But I guess I’ve basically only seen the Kirkeys and the Ultrashields look a lot nicer. I’d also encourage you to check out Cobra seats. IMO, best seats for the money. I bought a Suzuka a year or two ago to replace my Monaco and it’s a great seat so far. I’ve also used Sparco which I would not recommend.
Still yanking out the AC/PS/Cruise. I also pulled the front bumper, removed the intercooler mounts and basically everything from the driver side of the car. I figured I wouldn’t half ass this. Starting to pull some of the interior/HVAC stuff out now.
In other news, got a wink mirror for free, just need to fab some brackets. Also, getting a race seat for free from one of my ‘race buddies’. Just a group of 20 or so of us who are in the Porsche club. Hoping it’s decent. If anything, it will make a good passenger seat (if I need one)… Pics soon.
Hoping from the 17th to the new year I can get some more done. All that time off… yay!
Lots of questions. Service Manual is only helping me a little. Need a mix of the 94 LS and 92 GS-r I guess…
Okie Dokie… So the seat is an oldish Sparco Corsa. I do not care how old it is, it’s in good shape and the thing fits me like a glove. I will probably hold off on mounting it for some time because I want to get the B18B running.
As I said, I want to get the B18 running. I’ve made some moves, including stealing the crank pulley from the B17. (Dewalt electric impact, no. Air, no. Some other electric impact with 700lbs, ohhhh yeah) I still need to try to adjust the tensioner. The belt is tight everywhere but above the gears. I’m hoping that once I have a helping hand to help guide it on it’s way, and hold down while I turn the crank, that I’ll be able to get that out with the tensioner. I also pulled the two HVAC boxes from the passenger side. I think that was the blower and the AC core or something.
So… I have questions now, as to what goes where. I’m running into a bunch of oddities, including stray coolant hoses, wires, and of course vacuum hoses.
First thing to note, my incredibly incomplete fuel rail. :-\
I know I need a stock fuel pressure regulator. What’s the name of the mushroom tip looking thing on the passenger side? I have a banjo fitting on the end, but I don’t see how that’s going to work, being that there’s no openings. I assume through some special washers that I don’t have? (This beast is nickel and diming me to death)
Now, I believe that this is a fuel return hose? Looks like it was cut. Am I right? This is on the driver side, looks like it goes back to right in the middle of the firewall. Also, not sure what this should connect to. I assume the bottom of the FPR that’s missing.
No pictures of this, but the PCV -> Breather Box -> Wherever, they snapped the bung off the breather box. Is there an alternative route I can take with a catch can -> PCV -> Whatever, so that the PCV is not in such a PITA spot and ditch those hard plastic lines?
Lets see, WIRING.
[X] This is from the transmission. What is it? Does it need to be plugged in? Above it, you’ll see another random plug that I just assume doesn’t need to be plugged in for Air/Fuel/Spark to wake this thing up. I think this is the reverse sensor, maybe it lines up with grn/blk & yellow wires found further down…
Green and Red wires from the fuel rail. Are these for AFR? If so, can I take em off and call it a win?
Then we have this mess… Thankfully, they used red and black wires accordingly. (Sarcasm) But, I can figured that out easy enough. Question here is, what are those odd ball green/black and yellow wires. I’m looking through my diagrams, and one says Air conditioning, and I say BS. Also, there’s a random butt connector floating in this same general area, but it’s properly sleeved and what not as if Honda did it, not the previous hack job. Any input here would be appreciated
Anyways, making good progress. They notched the subframe to put the Hytech in. I don’t think it should cause any issues.
Any help is greatly appreciated as always.
Pretty busy today but hopefully I can give some sort of help on some of this…
Shoot me an email.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
Okie Dokie… So the seat is an oldish Sparco Corsa. I do not care how old it is, it’s in good shape and the thing fits me like a glove. I will probably hold off on mounting it for some time because I want to get the B18B running.
[/quote]
Great seat to start with!
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
As I said, I want to get the B18 running. I’ve made some moves, including stealing the crank pulley from the B17. (Dewalt electric impact, no. Air, no. Some other electric impact with 700lbs, ohhhh yeah) I still need to try to adjust the tensioner. The belt is tight everywhere but above the gears. I’m hoping that once I have a helping hand to help guide it on it’s way, and hold down while I turn the crank, that I’ll be able to get that out with the tensioner. [/quote]
A bit of slack is normal and it depends on the rotation of the engine. If you rotate the engine and test the tension of different parts of the belt by pressing on it with your finger you’ll see that the amount of slack changes dependent on where the engine components are. I think the primary reason for this is how the valve springs put pressure on the cam lobes. I can’t say whether what you’re seeing is within what is normal though. As long as you do the tensioning procedure and the belt isn’t off by a tooth then the slack you’re seeing should be fine.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
I know I need a stock fuel pressure regulator. What’s the name of the mushroom tip looking thing on the passenger side? I have a banjo fitting on the end, but I don’t see how that’s going to work, being that there’s no openings. I assume through some special washers that I don’t have? (This beast is nickel and diming me to death) [/quote]
You said mushroom tip :lol:
Fuel Pulsation Damper. I’d try to get as much of this stuff from a junk yard or spare motor if possible if you’re just trying to get it running. I wouldn’t buy new OEM stuff unless you’re planning on keeping this engine long term.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
Now, I believe that this is a fuel return hose? Looks like it was cut. Am I right? This is on the driver side, looks like it goes back to right in the middle of the firewall. Also, not sure what this should connect to. I assume the bottom of the FPR that’s missing.
[/quote]
That’s what it looks like to me as well. And yes, it should connect to the FPR. Google image search and you should be able to find what you need. I have a ton of pics on my flickr as well that could be helpful if you need, I just don’t have time to dig thru them now.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
No pictures of this, but the PCV -> Breather Box -> Wherever, they snapped the bung off the breather box. Is there an alternative route I can take with a catch can -> PCV -> Whatever, so that the PCV is not in such a PITA spot and ditch those hard plastic lines? [/img][/quote]
You can run generic rubber hose instead of the OEM custom stuff, it just looks shitty. The OE stuff is not plastic, it’s actually a nice supple rubber but over time it turns brittle. I still use the OEM stuff because the fit/finish is nice. But I may run a “breather” setup down the road. In your position I’d just mock up whatever you can for cheap - again, because you’re just trying to get this car running.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
Lets see, WIRING.
This is from the transmission. What is it? Does it need to be plugged in? Above it, you’ll see another random plug that I just assume doesn’t need to be plugged in for Air/Fuel/Spark to wake this thing up. I think this is the reverse sensor, maybe it lines up with grn/blk & yellow wires found further down…
[/quote]
Hmm, this is strange. That connector is not the correct connector. It’s for the reverse switch that threads into the transmission case. That style connector was used on the EG/DC but not the DA. Seems odd they would have used that instead of using the original one from the DB2. How many wires are there for the other “random plug”? I’m assuming that this will be a leftover connector for the VTEC solenoid and that’s why it’s just dangling.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
Green and Red wires from the fuel rail. Are these for AFR? If so, can I take em off and call it a win?
[/quote]
I can’t see from your pics but my first guess would be that those wires are for the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
Then we have this mess… Thankfully, they used red and black wires accordingly. (Sarcasm) But, I can figured that out easy enough. Question here is, what are those odd ball green/black and yellow wires. I’m looking through my diagrams, and one says Air conditioning, and I say BS. Also, there’s a random butt connector floating in this same general area, but it’s properly sleeved and what not as if Honda did it, not the previous hack job. Any input here would be appreciated
[/quote]
Most likely these two wires are your reverse switch, the connector style looks correct and those wire colors are also familar - you should double check the Helms though. The easiest solution here would be to pull the reverse switch from your b17a and install that then just plug it in. Otherwise you’ll just need to cut one connector off and splice on another in order to get your reverse switch to connect to the engine harness.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2322756]
Anyways, making good progress. They notched the subframe to put the Hytech in. I don’t think it should cause any issues.
Any help is greatly appreciated as always.[/QUOTE]
From previous pics it looked like they did a really good job notching the crossmember, most of the time it’s much more of a hack job than that.
I’ve been wanting to get rid of mine for a couple of years now. A custom KTeller with Burns mufflers would be ideal I think 
I checked the RTA’s and they look to be solid units. Every gasket set that I had sitting in my RockAuto shopping cart was found in the trunk of the car, so I consider that a win. I’m going to try to get it on the lift Monday, see if I can’t get it to the point where it will run. I need a couple dumb things, like a passenger side mirror glass, windshield, hood, probably new headlights, and once the timing belt is tightened up, I’ll charge it and see if she turns over.
and basically everything from the driver side of the car. I figured I wouldn’t half ass this. Starting to pull some of the interior/HVAC stuff out now.
