very nice.
The buddy who is sharing the car harassed me a little about my front camber, or lack thereof. I sprung for the hardrace kit up front. That should arrive in 3-4 days, so I’ll have time to install before my track day.
Working on a couple little things. Finally got my 5 panel mirror installed.
Also working out a little project on some headlights I have… (Ignore the wonderful rat’s nest… that’s addressed in phase 2 lol)
Until next time friends!
Nice headlight duct project! I’ve been wanting to do something similar for years but it’s low on the priority list. I can’t wait to see how yours turns out. Where’d you get that cf duct piece?
Some of my other friends bought an E30 WRL car and it was just randomly stuck somewhere useless. It found its way into my trunk while they were cleaning the car up, so I figured I’d use it. 
Score! 
Cuts and paint could have been better. I’ll clean this up for v2, but for now:
Sweet! saving weight is always nice :auto:
A few pics. I just zip tied the duct on for now since it’s the least of my concern for now. April 15, 16 I’ll be out at the track. A little work got done last night.
Removed 24 year old baked on tint with air craft paint stripper. (So much fun… No more fingerprints on my hands…)
Wired my Wideband, so I’ll at least know how the B20 is working with the P75.
Installed my headlight things.
Received my hardrace control arms / camber kit last night, but I was at the garage so I didn’t have them to install.
Ignore that ugly mug…
Until next time 
We got the strings and camber gauges out. All these numbers are with 8-9 Gallons of gas. Going to start off with the following this weekend:
f: 1* out r: .5* in
f: -4.1 r: -2.2
unadjusted crossweight with no one in it: 50.2%
rear dials in at 40.4%
fl: 678 fr: 693
rl: 465 rr: 465
Total: 2301
unadjusted crossweight with tubby (me) in it: 50.4%
rear dials in at 41.2%
fl: 743 fr: 719
rl: 537 rr: 491
Total: 2491
Not sure how we managed that close by eyeballing it. I’m sure most of this will change once the suspension settles.
Hardrace kit went on without a hitch. Just needed to press the plate on that connects the UCA bushing, but that wasn’t a problem. First time I test drove on the streets with them, one broke loose and went Doc Brown on me, so I’ll need to tighten those babies a bit more!
Not gonna whore the thread with many more pictures until we’re back from the weekend.
Car handles fantastic. Didn’t get many runs in. Turns in like a demon. Looped it once. The BFG Rivals ran great. i really liked them.
Problems:
Front suspension bottoming out really bad. I put an order in for extended top hats.
Found a fuel leak, replaced hose.
Battery either cracked or exploded. Doesn’t seem to be being overcharged. Thinking I may go lightweight and leave it in the rear.
For some reason, when I get to really hammering on the car, it’s getting a fuel or ignition cut. Car drops revs. Won’t rev past 3500, and then begins violently jerking. Eventually it will start working, but this just continues. I’m using a 1 year old Autozone distributor, and I’m not sure if all the wire colors match up so I’m going to dissect my old one to compare the two. No CEL so this makes it incredibly difficult to troubleshoot. Possibly a fuel pump? Going to check timing to make sure it’s still in shape.
If anyone has any thoughts, please please chime in.
I think you’re on the right track with troubleshooting that problem. The first thing that came to mind for me was an igniter or coil problem as they seem to be fairly illusive to track down and can exhibit different symptoms.
I had a problem like that once and it turned out to be an aftermarket fuel filter that was causing the issue. Your problem might not be the filter but it sounds familiar and could be a fuel flow problem. We figured it out by having someone watch the fuel gauge while the car was on the dyno (under load). It only happened under load at higher RPM’s but it felt like hitting a wall when driving it.
So, I have a video of it happening: https://youtu.be/KSbVBf4Ay94
Probably skip to 3:30 and listen to it if you want. Ignore my poor ass driving.
I’ve got a fuel pump on order. (Walboro 255… I dunno why I ordered that other than it’s affordable and I’ve read the name a thousand times…)
Going to inspect the wiring on the distributors that I have. (Page 2, note 2: http://www.locashracing.com/instructions/OBD0-OBD1.pdf )
Going to mount my fans a little more secure… the through mounting ripped right out during my off. 2 dangling fans… probably just go to 1.
Begin rewiring the fuel system and checking the ignition bits.
Need to get a temp tag on this thing again and make sure I can replicate the issue on the streets, so that I know when it’s fixed. Kind of sucks…
I had a similar intermittent issue in the past and it was the ignitor.
Replaced and it ran perfect.
Could be one of many possible issues, but its a pretty cheap part to replace.
When you have the problem does the tach bounce around at all? If the tach bounces then I’d lean more toward ignition vs fuel. I couldn’t see/hear much from the video.
It didn’t seem like it bounced. It was tough to pinpoint when it would happen; however, when it did, the tach seemed ok. It was a linear decrease in RPM, regardless of how deep into the throttle I was. It would then either recover, or it would begin bucking. Upshift or Downshift wouldn’t help.
I did order a coil and ICM, and am making a couple more grounds for the engine in case there’s any issues there. I’m also not ruling out fuel. I pinched the FPR hose and reduced pressure to about 43lbs. Once it’s there and I let the hose free, the pressure hits high 30’s or so.
One other thing to note, and I really don’t know if this would cause it, I don’t have my Speedo cable connected, and thus no VSS input to the ECU. Anyone have thoughts on that?
Edit: so, I mentioned the battery leaked. What would the likelihood be that the alternator is goofing up? I have alternator to fuse box, then battery to starter, starter to fuse box. We tested revving it and measuring battery output and at high rpm it’s not any higher than expected at 14.x.
Every time I’ve had a coil/icm issue (other than a complete failure where the car won’t run at all) it has been paired with irregular tach movements. But that’s just my anecdotal experience.
I would assume that the VSS definitely could be part of the problem, actually I thought that you’d be throwing a CEL with that disconnected. It’s been a long while, so perhaps I’m mistaken, but I thought that without the VSS signal you’d throw a code and the car would go into limp mode and not really work well in higher rpm.
What’s your battery setup again? I browsed through the thread real quick but didn’t find anything. Not sure what you’re running, but if it’s not a sealed one I’d get rid of it immediately. I’ll never run another old school battery again. I only use Optima in my main vehicles and an Odyssey in my Integra. I’ve never had problems with either - other than the Odyssey dying regularly if it’s not hooked to a trickle charger, they really need to be used regularly or hooked to a trickle charger/battery maintainer otherwise they drain very quickly.
[QUOTE=Colin;2333653]I would assume that the VSS definitely could be part of the problem, actually I thought that you’d be throwing a CEL with that disconnected. It’s been a long while, so perhaps I’m mistaken, but I thought that without the VSS signal you’d throw a code and the car would go into limp mode and not really work well in higher rpm.
[/QUOTE]
So, this will throw a code; but it’s intermittent. It’d similar to the ELD code I’ve found. ELD doesn’t throw the light on, but it does exist. The VSS stays in the ecu, but it will only pop the light on occasionally. Previously, when I first blew up the old cable, this took about 30 minutes of driving before it popped up. From what I’ve read, this causes VTEC not to engage which isn’t an issue for me, but I believe it could be a problem.
Battery setup is simple, and I am using a traditional battery. I figured that this was a great way to get weight to where I needed it, as opposed to ballast in the future. I’m now reconsidering…
As it stands, I have the big battery in the pass rear. I run a ground to the rear wall with the tail light grounds. I run 0 gauge (was already in the car) from the battery to the starter. The Alternator runs to the fuse box, the battery wire from the fusebox to the starter.
I plan on rewiring shortly with 4 gauge and something similar to the following:
Let me know how that layout works for the battery relocation! That is comparable to what I was looking at, however my car has been down for a rebuild for a while!
Where is your master battery switch going to be located?
As for batteries, I bought an X2 Power one from Batteries and Bulbs, and it blows the Optima out of the water for CCA and CA (820) in a battery that fits in the OEM location. I’ve had it for almost two years now, in a car that has seen 25 miles, and is started MAYBE once every two weeks. Has ever even hesitated to start the car. I had a YellowTop before that with the same CCA/CA and it didn’t start the car nearly as quick, and it went dead twice in a month.
Do you have a link to the battery? I’ve been looking at the AGM batteries for snow mobiles and maybe even lithium ion.
As for the kill switch, it will go where one of my dash vents are; either far left or far right.