Thats just plain sick…
:crazy:
Robbie, sell me your set of mooganz soz I can be like duy 
Are they no longer available from King?
BTW, I haven’t heard from Darren yet, maybe I’ll swing by later today.
Schu the T/a i have are for the 94+ integra not the 88-91 civic
Robbie, I’m pretty sure its the same thing. I ordered the Integra ones but EF ones showed up.
crap i need to find that box!!
Excellent thread guys.
The reason why you want to orient the bushing downward when reinstalling the bushing on a lowered car is so that you avoid putting any more strain on the bushing than necessary. From factory, the bushing is oriented in a way so that it “rests” naturally for the intended stock height of the vehicle. When you lower the car and keep the bushing in the same position, it twists and now has an extra load on the bushing even when the car is straight. By repositioning the bushing downward after lowering, you are in effect compensating for the car being lowered, and thus taking out this extra preload on the bushing. This makes the bushing last longer because there is less stress and wear on the bushing. The degree you turn the bushing depends on how much your car is lowered and is more logrithmic than linear.
Since it is a hassle for most people to change their trailing arm bushings - let alone reposition them, most people don’t bother doing it when they lower their cars. It’s kind of like using camber kits after lowering - everyone can benefit from utilizing them after lowering their cars, but not everyone does - whether it’s time, money or effort.
This is a fairly obvious observation… the question is not weather this should be done, it is by how much and how did you descern this figure… on board now?
The original question stated ‘why’ and not ‘how much’ if you read carefully, although I’m “on board” to what you are asking now. Which figure is it that you say I descern? Without mesuring, one possible method of figuring out how much is by testing it with a free turing bushing, then putting the car on the ground an detecting how much it turned. After that, press the real bushing to that same degree of the detected turn and you should have a good estimate of where it should be. Kind of similar to leaving sway bar suspension bolts loose until after it’s already on the ground and then tighten them so you can eliminate that preload you normally wouldn’t notice with the suspension in droop.
I think we can all agree that would be an natural way of doing an orientation, but were beyond that… What we’re saying is perhaps there maybe a way determining the amount of preload you want on a given corner before you take the time to press that sucker in there and bolt it back on the car. No one is saying neutral/zero preload is where you want to be, perhaps a little positive load is a bias that is good for the type of driving we do… Perhaps it is even a negative load on the bushing, it is an adjustible feature that should not be automatically assumed that zero is perfect. And how are you determining zero anyway when your lower and raising your ride height for varying driving conditions?
I am not continuously determining zero (I only drive the integra on occasions now) and would only speculate some slight positive preload would benefit depending on driving style, even if wearing out the bushing faster. Again, if read correctly, it was not my intention to convey to what extent, but rather ‘why’ as was originally asked by integralude.
If only it was easily adjustable…
I hear ya IVE, I wasn’t trying to bust your balls… well maybe a little, but your points are all well taken. I have ther same sneaking suspicsion that a positive load will yeild a better situation back there… and perhaps even a ferw degree’s more twist in the passanger side to compensate for driver weight sagging ^_^… but the best would be a huge friggen spherical bearing
Schu
Duy, whats the exact ID for the DA TA? I think I just found 80mm spherical bearings :rockon:
:lol: Its 80mm on one side and 82mm on the other
Sorry for the off-tangent, but I just noticed that Energy sells a rear trailing arm bushing kit ( 16.7107 )!?? Wassup wit dat? Any body got pics or details of it? Its cheap too. ~$25 from Lightning Motorsports. It this the same part that this thread is discussing?
Yeah yeah, a n00b question, but this suspension stuff is new to me aight? 
~Brian
Hey Brian, the differrence is that the ES bushing is polyurethane and the OEM and Mugen bushings are rubber. That makes the biggest difference in response.
Later,
BR
i remember a member having trouble with his es bushings cause they would slide out of the arm and rub on the body and problems with binding cause it’s to stiff
BR, its more than that. Its in design more than in durometer. The design of the ES bushings limits movement where as the mugen and oem do not. Whether this maters for most people still remains to be seen… but IMO its a good idea to stick w/ oem or mugen just to be safe.
Brian, read thru the TA bushing thread here on g2ic and on honda-tech, there is a lot of background info that will help to make this thread more informative for you.
Schu, darn, I didn’t even think about the bushing orientation when I installed it. I installed it just like it was meant to be from the factory… now that I think about it, what you’re saying makes total sense. I just wish I would have thought about this during install… doh!!!
52385-SK7-N02 is $57 each
52385-SR3-000 is $50 each
These prices are from my local honda dealership…FYI
So it really looks like the best option is to get the Mugen EF Bushings for $115 shipped, melt out the inside of the DA Metal Bushing Case and press in the EF Bushing.
There has been a lot of talk here…but has anyone actually DONE this mod? Successfully? …besides the guy that Ben Ogle first posted in the thread?
Well, I just picked up a set of used TAs and my Mugen bushings will be here Friday. I’ll prob’ly hit Dan up for help and everything will be documented. Should be fun. 
But its going to take time.
~Brian