finally have it running and now I am getting a street tune in order to go 3 hrs to the dyno. Here are the specs of my current set up.
OBD 0 b16:
9:1 comp srp
eagle rods
450s and 87 teg resistor box(still have original box as well)
ctr valve train and underdrive
t3t4 turbonetics evolution wastegate
huge front mount 32x12x3
LM-1 wb
chipped and socketed ecu
uberdata basemap for boost and for stock internal b16
Here is my problem. I have played with many tuning programs and this is the one that I liked. I am about at 13.2 at idle and 11-12 in vaccuum. Then after 5 min the when I let off the throttle the car wants to die and idle erractic and real rich 9.5-10.3 and then dies. When I restart it it does the same thing. I know that I need a new battery because the one I have is always dead and never holds a charge. Is there any rule for changing the idle so that it doesn’t run so rich and foul out the plugs. I figure that the plugs are fowling out after 5 mins or so. I know that a map that is made for stock compression will run rich on lower compression motor. Should I change the IACV cycle on the program and which way should I go or should I concentrate on the low cam fuel map? If you need more info let me know.
anyone?
Increase the idle using the idle screw on the intake manifold
450cc injectors should idle steady and right at 14.7 AFRs just fine…
get that battery changed and make sure to set the timing before you go to the dyno
thanks xenocron
after your timing is checked I think you should get your car to idle at 20inhg. when i was running with 880’s using uber i got it to idle at 1100 rpm @ 21inHG 14.7 to 15.5 afr. You should add fuel to the columns of the higher numbers in vacum just around the columns where u idle for example
in/hg |- 27 | 24.7 | 22.7 | 19.7 | 14.3 | 9.39 | 6.32
rpm
500
648
750 add fuel here---------------
1000 add fuel here---------------| 4.56 | 6.10 | your idle for example
1250 add fuel here--------------
if your idling there add fuel to the left of the column and read ur afrs. it should start to idle better.
it would help if u bought an ostrich so u dont have to burn chips every time u make an adjustment.
I will try that to. I have been out since my last post and have not tried it yet but i am going to try xenocrons post first and hope that that is it. but then I will back and burn some more. thanks for the feedback
did both of what you all said and used a basemap supplied by xenocron. I still have excessive fuel. When at idle on start up it smokes gas fumes but once it is warm it leans out. As soon as I hit the gas it smokes again. I will take your basemap xenocron and lean it out in proportion to the vac and rpms and see what that does. Both maps got me between 11 and 13 at idle so you can imagine how rich the rest is. I refuse to give up on this and if you have anymore suggestions let me know. Thanks guys.
are u using stock fuel pressure regulator? from your orginal post u say your car is running obd 0. Uber runs on obd 1. Do you have the ability to burn your own roms? When your car idles at 11 to 13 afr what is your inhg reading.
I have Crome Uberdata and Turboedit and the closest I have gotten to tuning the car without smoke is with UBer. I guess I need to find out if it is obd O or not what is the easiest way to see that. Does it make a difference when burning chips. I guess it does since you are asking. JUst learning about all of this and I know the difference between the OBD2 and 1 but not 1 and 0 and how tha matters when tuning. I have an after market fuel pressure regulator on it and it is set at 40. It just seems like my injectors stay open to long or even open up twice. I had it leaned out with Uber one day last week then I forgot whick program it was and now I don’t remember where it is or what I called it. YEah I can burn chips and I have a LM-1. I just replaced the whole ignition system pretty much(cap ,rotor, and coi,l plugs, and wires). If there is any other info that I can give you in order to help me let me know. Thanks
if your obd 0 your ems should be BRE and obd1 crome, uber, neptune,hondata.
if u did the obd0 to 0bd1 swap u should be running a p28, pr4, or p30 ecu’s(all gray connector plugs on the ecu w/ a conversion harness.) and u put on an obd1 distributor.
if your obd0 you have black and a cream color plugs.
crome and bre bin files r different i dont think u can burn a uber bin and then plug it into an obd 0 ecu.
just need more info so i can help
thanks I will get back to you later today
alright i have some more info. the plugs from the wiring harness to the ecu are gray. Here is some more helpful hints for you to help you help me. Should I mess with the ign. timing or just put it at TDC dash. I set it two days ago. I jumped the plug under the dash and used a timing light to set it. I could not get it to advance enough to get on the last timing mark it seems. I think I got it but I had to rotate the distributor all the way towards the fire wall to get it to the middle of the three dashes. I also attach some bins that I have tried to your email and see what you think. I will also attach some of the bins that I have used and are going to try to use tomorrow
to answer one more of your questions. My idle is right under 20 Hg’s and the a/f is still at 13 or below. Thanks again
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