turbo build, how is this so far

i have a B18A1 that i am building.
right now i have a turbo setup, on stock motor with fuel setup and ignition setup, chipped ecu, apexi SAFC, HKS hipower exhaust, and a few other little things, but i am goin to build my other motor then just swap out.

so far for the head i have

Crower stage ll turbo cam shafts
Crower dual springs and titanium retainers
Ferrea valves
AEM Cam gears
Skunk2 Intake manifold

next things to get.
any recomendations on what manufacture or company.

head gasket
head studs
throttle body

and not sure on what to get for the bottom end

crank
pistons
rods
bearings
piston rings

not looking to get knocked just opinions please

Headgasket: Cosmetic
Head Studs: Guess…ok ARP.
Throttle Body: I have a DHR 75mm and it’s great. But you can use BBK, Skunk2, whatever.

Crank: Have it knife edged and balanced. Maybe polished…but seriously…
Pistons: JE, Arias
Rods: Crower, Eagle
Bearings: Whomever
Piston rings: …The ones that come with the pistons.

Originally posted by Boosted_90Teg

Crank: Have it knife edged and balanced. Maybe polished…but seriously…

Originally posted by neouser quoting Texan here

yes, DO NOT knife edge a Honda 4 cylinder crank. That modification is primarily for shallow crankcase, 90 degree balanced V8’s, meaning domestic small and big blocks. A little backrgound here is in order, in case you wanted to know why I say this…

First off, shallow crankcase motors are pretty much a thing of the past, but those older designs have a lot of crankshaft to oil interference at the bottom end. Whipping a crank counterweight through a viscous fluid at 6000 RPM is not a good way to acheive rotational efficiency, so it makes sense to minimize the interaction of the crank with oil in the sump. Secondly, domestic V8 motors are traditionally 90 degree balanced, which gives them that nice sound but also a very heavy crankshaft and lazy revving (notice Ferrari V8’s are 180 degree balanced, the so-called flat plane cranks, to prevent this problem). To counter this, the knife edging is also brought into play to minimize crankshaft inertia problems, and it works great on these meaty counterweights if done properly and for specific applications.

Since your motor has neither of these things to deal with, knife edging only does one thing: cause balance issues and remove some strength from the crank itself. For a high RPM motor needing a solid bottom end, this is definitely not the way to go. Hope this helps explain things, peace.

And about bearings…I suggest using OEM bearings.

-Hoots

i have seen new cranks by eagle, they are a little exspensive
but is it not worth it to get one, since i guess cutting one is out of the question. what bout just a new oem crank.
or one of the kits that i found for example
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-ACURA-Integra-B18A-B18B-Eagle-Crank-Rods-Pistons_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33616QQihZ019QQitemZ7980137602QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

I have a the lightened knife edged one and I like it.

Personally I think its pointless to get that package. If you are going for a high horse power motor Eagle H beams are not the rods to use.