I’m making a final checklist for my turbo setup and I want to know if I’m leaving anything out and if I have stuff that I may not necessarily need on the list that I can take off to put the funds towards something else.
This is what my list looks like.
- Garrett 50 trim compressor w/ Stage III turbine 0.48 A/R
- Custom modular turbo manifold
- Custom 3" downpipe
- Custom dumptube
- 27x6.5x3.5 intercooler
- Custom intercooler piping
- Tial 38mm WG
- Tial Q BoV
- 580cc injectors
- Walbro fuel pump
- AEM Adjustable FPR
- AEM fuel rail
- GM3 map sensor
- BLOX Pro manual boost controller
- 1/2 radiator
- T3 Oil feed/return complete kit
- Boost Gauge
- A/F Gauge
- Oil Pressure Gauge
- P28 ECU with HondataS300
- OBD0 to OBD1 harness
- Odyssey PC680 battery and mount bracket
This is what I’m not sure if I need so they’re not on the list:
- Resistor box
- Traction bar
Am I missing anything, am I adding stuff I shouldn’t really need? I’m boosting on a stock LS motor that’s in good shape and no internal work was done besides ARP studs, and a new headgasket, timing belt, water pump and oil pump were changed.
Thanks,
Coz
-The traction bar is a good idea cause it gives you alot more room to work with your downpipe and a lil less weight than the factory front subframe…
-The resistor box all depends on the type of injectors you are going to use… high impedance (12-16ohm) no box… low impedance (2-6 ohm) you need to use the box!!!
-also depending on the boost you are planning to run… the stock honda map sensor is good to 11 psi…
-you will also need an aftermarket clutch depending on the power level you are looking for…ive seen stock clutches start to slip at about 220-240 horse power…
Ok cool, they’re high impedence injectors so I’m good on the no box. I got the aftermarket map sensor incase I can get higher than the 10-11psi the stock map sensor can hold. I’m hoping to be tuned to 12psi or in that neighborhood.
I have an aftermarket clutch, it’s a stage 4 competition clutch and a 12 lb flywheel so I’m good in that area I think.
Ok so I can put the traction bar on the list. Am I ok on those gauges? Some people say that having an A/F gauge is pointless and maybe an EGT would be better.
Anything else I may be missing?
Thanks.
Coz
Get rid of the a/f gauga and get yourself an AEM uego wide band there pretty cheap now!!!
Well if your trying to save money… I don’t see any need for A/F Guage, Fuel Rail, Map Sensor, I wouldn’t buy the traction bar unless you need the clearance (see how the car drives first). How much are you planning on boosting??
Looks good though except I don’t see anything about tuning…:shrug:
I’m not trying to save money. I’m trying to see if some of the things I put on my list are really a waste of money and therefore putting them towards other parts that I don’t even have on the list.
Why no A/F gauge? It’s good to know if you’re running rich or lean.
Fuel rail I need, I have a Skunk2 intake manifold and the adjustable FPR isn’t going to bolt on the OEM fuel rail.
Tuning I’m getting a P28 ECU with a Hondata S300 program, it’s on my list.
Okay cool. Well if your tuner does the tune on the car properly you won’t really need any kind of A/F Gauge. Good Luck with the project!
[QUOTE=IntegraC;2080002]I’m not trying to save money. I’m trying to see if some of the things I put on my list are really a waste of money and therefore putting them towards other parts that I don’t even have on the list.
Why no A/F gauge? It’s good to know if you’re running rich or lean.
Fuel rail I need, I have a Skunk2 intake manifold and the adjustable FPR isn’t going to bolt on the OEM fuel rail.
Tuning I’m getting a P28 ECU with a Hondata S300 program, it’s on my list.[/QUOTE]
The Autometer a/f gauges are junk, absolutely useless… get the AEM uego its an accurate a/f wide band…
Well really, would I need that gauge after it’s tuned? And really why am I going to get a gauge to help them tune. The whole dyno is supposed to help get the most of the car, and once that’s set it’s set, no?
So deff boost and oil pressure, still unsure on the 3rd gauge. And would I need more than 3?
Also, do I need a catch can? Or is that for if I’m planning on a high HP build. I really don’t expect to see more than 275-300 on this setup without further upgrading my internals.
honestly oil and water temp arent bad to have. a/f is great to have to keep an eye on to catch an on coming problem. as you know all it take is one moment going lean and BOOM. if you can see it start going lean or not running like normal, then you know to start investigating
That’s what the tuner shop where I’ll have it installed said about the A/F gauge and that’s why I have it on my list.
Here’s a question. What do you guys think of the Glow Shift gauges? They’re kinda cheaply priced, wondering if anyone heard any bad things about it? Also the tuner mentioned my oil pressure gauge should be mechanical not electric. Go with that?
Thanks.