Hello, i have a '93 Integra LS-Special Edition that i am boosting with a InlinePro .57trim. I have a mildly built LS head port and polish, bc stage2 cams, crower valvetrain. My question is should i keep the ls head or get a vtec head. I heard this head is very similar to a stock b16 head wtih the port and polish and cams, but the b16 head can be modified itself to produce more power down the road. So what do you guys think built LS or LS/Vtec? Oh and the block is stock for now, until i can get enough funds to finish it, I have a micropolished knife edged crank for it jsut need the rods and pistons. Thanks
if budget isnt a problem a vtec head will outflow a non vtec head any day. if budget is a problem. keep your ls head since its already pretty well moded and finish off that block and get boosting!
you knifed the crank? if its a DD, i am sorry…
anywho… i would stick with the LS, since its pretty well done up already. if the car is not a race car, then the benefits of going with the bigger port vtec head is not going to be worth the hassle. the LS head will flow enough that you will make enough on the street for proper approval.
also, i would ditch the BC cams. get something more inline with a one off build. your head now flows at different rates then the one BC used to “design” those cams. even though i doubt he actually designed the cams, probably off the shelf specs anyway. your also boosted, when boosted you need specific specs to make ideal power. if you have the specs on the head (flow chart, etc), theni would suggest you call someone and have custom cams made up. bisi comes to mind when it comes to cam designed special for your engine needs.
Yes the crankshaft has been knife edged and micropolished. The car is a daily driver. I am really wanting to go LS/Vtec and boost it. I have heard that ls/vtec and boost can cause lots of problems, but the guy that is building my car has a lot of experience in building and tuning. Just trying to hear from people who have experince with boosted ls/vtec with a good tune and how it ran and if they had any problems. Thanks for the responses.
its not hard:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/just-racing/93971-not-d-series-but-its-turbo.html
tuning is the key to the build up you want to do.
knifing the crank is a bad idea for DD use. balancing is what you wanted to do. balancing to 10k rpm would have been more then enough for what you can drive on the street.
i went from ls turbo to ls/vtec turbo. its really not much more complicated and the gains are well worth it! all you need iis an extra external oil line and some adjustable cam gears and the head…
Why is a knifed crank a bad idea for a dd, yes it will be balanced. Sorry dont really know a lot about building the block thats wh i have all the questions. Thanks again.
[QUOTE=93TegLS-Special;2089496]Why is a knifed crank a bad idea for a dd?[/QUOTE]excessively light rotating assembly. same side effect as a super light flywheel.[QUOTE=93TegLS-Special;2089496]yes it will be balanced.[/QUOTE]other then the spec differences between the gsr crank and the ls crank, this is the biggest difference. honda balanced is vtec cranks, including the sohc cranks, pretty high (9k, iirc) so you really only need to balance the ls/non-vtec crank higher to make it able to maintain good balance at high rpms.[QUOTE=93TegLS-Special;2089496]Thanks again.[/QUOTE]sorry, but i dont give away everything. just give the step stones. i have found people learn more from hints rather then the info on a platter.
lsvtec is def. the way to go if budget is not an issue. think about it. a b18a puts out 130hp, but a b18a lsvtec, stock will put out 170 to 180hp. i a have even seen a few at 185 on stock eveything. so the 40 to 50 hp gain, well worth it. thats what i run and i’d never go back.
Ok, i do know about lighter flywheels and how it will shorten the life of the motor. So even if the crankshaft is balanced to say 9k or 10k its still a bad idea? Maybe i can try to get rid of it and get some eagel rods and a set of pistons. Any other tips or things that i should beware of on this build? Definatly going turbo LS/Vtec after reading through alot of forums. The guy building my motor and tuning is really good and is well know in our town.Thanks
the lifespan of the engine is not what i was referring to. more along the lines of how it effects drive-ability.
knifing is for dedicated race cars. street cars NEED the counter weights.
i agree that you should go back to stock crank. knife edged is only good when you need that little extra edge in racing and your n/a.
also, if your engine is all apart, throw some arp rod bolts in so you can actually rev your engine to 8 or 9
I’m not too sure on knife edging but Ive always been told that’s it’s not a good idea for turbo guys. would that also have something to do with strength of the crank seeing how material is taken away from it?
about the rods. I have always been told on Ls’s that side load on compression and decompression affect added stress on the rods. more so the stroke on our counterpart Vtec engines are almost at a vertical on compression and decompression, the Ls is at a diagonal, so with that in mind and the added RPMs of the Vtec I would look for a stronger rod. I never quite understood this fully as I’m still learning but it makes sense.
most have had success with eagle rods but some have also snapped them but don’t know why. this is why I think it happens on LS’s. I am running pauter rods and am looking into going LS vtec myself. these rods are strengthened to withstand side to side loads and front and rear flex so I think I’ll be OK. as for my LS I am making 400HP. with the addition of a vtec head, my tuner can do that plus with ease, and somewhere about 500hp on race gas possibly.
I have no idea what your trying to do or what your goals are, so I’m just throwing that out there if your looking to go crazy on it. my engine is built built. I can do no more but throw bigger turbos at it, but the rods i mentioned are not for everybody. there really for bigger power that I’m not making but more of a piece of mind for me. just my .02.
[QUOTE=smokeintegra;2090370]
about the rods. I have always been told on Ls’s that side load on compression and decompression affect added stress on the rods. more so the stroke on our counterpart Vtec engines are almost at a vertical on compression and decompression, the Ls is at a diagonal, so with that in mind and the added RPMs of the Vtec I would look for a stronger rod. I never quite understood this fully as I’m still learning but it makes sense.
most have had success with eagle rods but some have also snapped them but don’t know why. this is why I think it happens on LS’s. I am running pauter rods and am looking into going LS vtec myself. these rods are strengthened to withstand side to side loads and front and rear flex so I think I’ll be OK. as for my LS I am making 400HP. with the addition of a vtec head, my tuner can do that plus with ease, and somewhere about 500hp on race gas possibly.[/QUOTE]
yes that deals with the rod to stroke ratio and i believe you want to shoot for .66 for an even balance of longevity and efficiency…and majority of honda motors are right around that number so i wouldnt think that the bottom end would be a huge factor. i know the stroke on the LS is longer than the vtec which is great for torque and the minimal difference in the rod/stroke ratio isnt that much different to matter…hence why LS-V’s are so great.
to the OP, personally id build the LS head jsut to be different as there are alot of vtecer’s out there. (nothing wrong with vtec though)
^^there’s also a lot of non vtec’ers out there. that wouldn’t stop me from getting the better of the two heads thats for sure.
understand that
without personally looking into it…
can you just put the non vtec cams on the vtec head and make a ‘killer cams’
so remove the vtec off the head and just reuse the b18a/b cams will this work?
i dont see y it wont, and if it will wouldnt that be the best of both worlds you could get the good flowing head, no vtec, a bolt on head, no mod to wiring etc.
(provided non vtec cams fit the vtec head once the vtecs been removed)
no it wont work as the cams are mounted differently as shown in these links
non vtec
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/attachments/parts-classifieds/22582d1080076780-for-sale-b18-head-b6_1_b.jpg
vtec
http://is.rely.net/1-85-91682-l-0C2SMn37kSRMen4TTt6ZQ.jpg
aw k worth a try.