ok its been awile but i read some where that you can put the type r tranny gears into the ys1 tranny i was wondering if anyone had done this and if it was worth it. also would you be able to use the itr lsd on the ys1
yes, i’ve done it. If you are going to use the LSD, you need to grind about 1mm off three of the ribs on your YS1 case. Just place the LSD into the case and spin it, you’ll hear (and feel) where it is making contact.
In my opinion its definitely worth it! It saves you the money of buying a hydro to cable conversion or the hassle of running hydraulic lines. Also saves you the money of buying the hydraulic tranny mount. Best of all the you get the direct feel of a cable clutch and the peace of mind of knowing that you have a good tranny (by doing it yourself).
I used this guide here for an idea of where to grind: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68655
You only have to grind a little bit.
Aside from the grinding, its a straight swap! However, make sure you measure thrust clearances and buy the proper shims for the main shaft. The differential has a specific pre-load that is adjusted by a shim as well. The procedure is in the honda service manual, which you may have to find. In my case, the clearances were spot on so it was a super easy swap.
IMO there’s no better trans setup. I hate the idea of 89-91 vtec transmissions as they are out dated and parts are hard to find. And I hate the idea of hydro conversion kits, they’re usually janky and I’ve heard way too many horror stories. And the idea of converting to a true hydraulic actuation setup sounds like a nightmare. Why not have the best of both worlds - ITR gearing with LSD plus the reliability of the original cable clutch actuation design? IMO you’d be stupid to go for anything else.
yep,yep,yep…
alright thank you guys for all your help
yeah I have a 91 Y1 lsd tranny and its a nightmare. I dont even have the original lsd since it gave out, I had to dish out big boy money and buy a wavetrac lsd wich has gear and clutch type of internals so its the best of both worlds. I can drag and auto cross with it.
I think that most of the advice that Dragon has given should be suffecient and the post he linked you to should work for reference. The pictures show quite a bit more then a 1mm of material removed and I usually recommend about 1/4" of material or 5mm, but that’s being anal. If you have any questions about what you’re doing, don’t assume, check and then recheck to make sure you are clear. And then check again…
Trans projects are scary but if you’re careful you can handle it yourself.
J.
[QUOTE=.J.;2199621]I think that most of the advice that Dragon has given should be suffecient and the post he linked you to should work for reference. The pictures show quite a bit more then a 1mm of material removed and I usually recommend about 1/4" of material or 5mm, but that’s being anal. If you have any questions about what you’re doing, don’t assume, check and then recheck to make sure you are clear. And then check again…
Trans projects are scary but if you’re careful you can handle it yourself.
J.[/QUOTE]
Ya, I was actually expecting to grind down more than 1mm, but in my case the diff was just barely touching the ribs on my case. At the time, I figured it would be better to remove the least amount of material. After finishing the swap, I thought about the metal expanding when it gets hot and causing potential contact. In the end, I decided that I didn’t want to break open the case again so I just left it. However, so far I have not run into any problems at all. Including during two track days in the summer (by far, the hottest my tranny will ever get)
Also note that I used a small angle grinder, so in no way was the grinding precisely 1mm all across the rib. More in some places, less in others. I basically just did it by trial and error.
Put diff in, spin it back and forth.
Try to locate point of contact and grind that point, kinda difficult because you can’t see it directly.
Repeat.
i transferred hydro internals into my ys1 case i didnt even need to shave down the fins but its an after market differential so thats probibly why . i believe the hydro tranny had b16 gears with an ls final drive and quafe lsd.really digging the short gears and the ability to cruise at a reasonable rpm on the freeway 
What timing on this thread, I have been mulling over the idea of doing this as my next major project!
what do you mean by wat timing on this thread. i have yet to do it still saving money for the swap
I ment that I didnt even have to search, it was right here on the first page 
if your looking for a B series cable tranny that comes stock with itr and ctr internals and lsd then you need to look for the jdm 92-93 XSI YS1 tranny with lsd… My buddy is selling his jdm 92-93 YS1 for $400 with itr and ctr internals and LSD.
Ok I know this is a old post but I have a critical update on the right lsd for your B series setup.
Ive used two (2) sir lsd diff’s in my Y1 tranny and they have both broken apart against my jdm 98 spec itr swap. My first diff lasted me 2 months and the second only 7 days. If yoiu pay close attention you will notice that the type r lsd is much taller and has bigger cogs/gears. The sir lsd is over all smaller. dont make the same mistake I did 2 times. No one ever told me the sir lsd was smaller…
here is a pic of the type r ctr/itr lsd
and b16 sir lsd
In case anyone is thinking of putting (non-lsd) hydro gsr internals into a ys1 case…it’s not going to work. I picked up a 93 LS YS1 case from the junkyard with hopes of installing gsr internals from a 98 tranny (couldn’t afford LSD hydro tranny). The diff on the gsr is too big and would require grinding to the point of making the ys1 case unsafe. I’m going to assume that the LSD diameter is smaller than the non-lsd diff. So I went to plan b and will be picking up the innovative cable to hydro actuator/conversion and hope for the best…Upset that I really wanted the stock YS1 case with the gsr gears and diff…Oh well.
cant u use the cable trans diff and hydro gears?
YS1 LS diff= 64 teeth, GSR/Hydro diff = 66 teeth. You can use gsr main and countershaft but the diff is too big even with grinding. I dont want to use just the gsr gears and not the diff. So I will be using the Hydro case on my DA9.
The non-lsd diff is definitely bigger than the LSD diff, but I don’t think that you would have to grind that much off the case. When I installed the LSD in mine I only had to grind like 1/8th inch off two of the ribs. I’ve compared the non-LSD and LSD diff’s before, but I definitely do not remember the non-LSD diff being That much bigger to the point where it would not safely fit into the YS1 case.
I grinded way more than the 1/8th that is required for the LSD diff and the nonLSD diff still didn’t fit. It is bulky and looks like a heavy duty unit. Trust me, I wanted this to work. I didn’t want to spend money on a cable to hydro actuator or the auto to manual hydro mount. But It wasn’t happening. If I have time, I’ll take a pic of how much grinding I did. I’m going with the hydro tranny as-is and already ordered the mount and just need the actuator. Anyone interested in a 93 LS tranny case ready for LSD diff?
I’m going to say this and try and sound as “un-insulting” as possible, but you must be doing something wrong.
It sounds to me that you haven’t shimmed, or found the proper size shim, for between the carrier bearing and the casing. If you’re confused as to what I’m talking about you’ll want to take a look at the Helms manual and follow the instructions for re-assembling a trans casing after any internal service. In the Helms the instructions for clearances and tolerances of the space between the casing and the diff carrier bearing are provided and you’ll need to remove between an 1/8" and a 1/4" of material from the webbing, depending on the thickness of the shim, in order to get a free spinning unit.
Hope this helps, and yes, I’ve done this hundreds of times first hand…
J.