i finally got the chance to put my wideband on , and its displaying live on my dashboard i made. Now that im setup, i would want not to program my chip 20 times because ive made wrong calculations on the injector duty cycle.
My question:
Is tehre a formula (or at least something to start with) that tells me how muuch fuel (on a 1 to 1000 scale) to take out to reach a certain set point ^
example.
my afr is 12.5 at 10inHg vacuum, current setting is 556 at 5000 rpm. how much should i lower the 556 to reach 14:1 at 5000rpm …
any guru in there???
well ive done 4 passes right now. FIrst pass with the basemap i had was a solid 12:1 everywhere on the map !!
now im around 15 crusing, 13 woot and 12 boosting
smell normal for once, im not gased anymore inside the car !!
cant wait to see my MPG right now, i may have spent hundreds of $$ this summer running this 12:1 basemap
of course, this is my problem , not yours !
got to xenocron’s site and buy ur self an ostrich. I think its around $185 it is well worth it. I ran uber for a while but i was getting a hesitation at idle. I then went with crome. Once ur done with ur map when using the ostrich then u can to a final burn.
in uber with 780’s my best afr in idle was 14:8 on a AEM uego 1150 rpm
crusing was 13:00 10inHG 3000 rpm, boost 11.5 psi according to my e-boost afr 11:1. i havent played with igniton tables just -.5 degrees for 1lb of boost
you should try and start to datalog your pulls so that u can see the changes that u have made to better adjust ur map
Hi Man
I have an emulator that I could lend you (my setup isn’t completed yet). Je suis à Trois Rivières, je pense que t’es de Québec non?. You could build you map on it and then do only one burn on your chip.
Just send me an email
hey ! of course, je suis de québec ! I actually made a pretty good basemap but im having hesitation when the engine is cold. When its warmed , it almost disapear. But yeah, shoot me you program if you can, ill appreciate !
my email is jpgagnon21@hotmail.com
thank you!
A little tuning tip that will help all…
Lets say you are trying to tune a specific cell lets say 2000 rpm @ 100kpa or 0 Psi. Lets say the number in that cell is 350 which would be the pulse width or VE. Now you have a Air fuel of 12.5 in that particular cell and you want 14.0. Well this calculation will work everytime… Its called the Have over Want calculation. Take the number you have which is 12.5 and divide it by the number you want which is 14.0. That number would be 0.892 Then you take the pulse width number of that cell which is 350 and multiply it by the 0.892 and you will get the number 312 to input in that cell. It will put your air fuel to 14.0. This will work everytime garanteed. If you have a dyno like the one we have at our shop a dyno dynamics it has a load feature that we can pinpoint each cell to tune them separatly. But you can do it on the street it is just harder.
so heres the calculation again… Have/Want = Number X Current Pulse Width
= New Pulse Width
I hope this helps…
of course, this is gonna help me a lot !
but one thing i’ve noticed is that when you look at the fuel grid (graph) the relation is not linear at all. I noticed there is a ‘smooth’ amount option in uberdata. is this recommanded ? also, my car is boggin when cold. hesitates all the time like below 3500. But as soon as it gets hot, it runs alright. DOes this have something to do with the cold enrich option ? it’s set at 70 and tps is 50. wondering why i’m having long start also (cranking about 3 seconds before it ignite)
You can use the smooth function but what it will do is take the number you are pinpointing and it will interpolate between all surrounding cells. Like i said before if you dont have a dyno it is hard to get it exactly right. I have had good luck with just making the numbers surrounding a particular cell close to each other. You mainly just have to play with it alot to get it right. The cold start could be attributed to the fuel enrichment in shich case i would say if it is hard to start what are the air fuels when it starts? If they are in the 14s it will be hard to start so i would richen it up to at least 12 to even 11s. And the starting after more cranks you can play with the timing move it up and down like 2 points and try it untill you can get it to start the way you want it to, truth is sometimes it just takes longer there are so many variables it is hard to get every one. I hope this helps good luck
Tommy
thank you
Great thread. Copy/Pasted.
MantisX
it bogs when cold because it is lean, i have trouble with my car running lean until the coolant starts to come up to temp. ive been using uberdata for like 3 years and tuned a handful of cars along with like 4 of my own motors. cold start (real cold temps) should be in the 11’s, and within a min or 2 it should go up to the 12s. it can wash your rings running rich at idle for long periods of time. a good idle is probably between 14.5 and 15.5:1.
the vacuum stumble is normal, probably around 10" vacuum. it stinks but you get used to it i guess.
what are you running for timing on this just out of curiosity
well actually my timing is stock for the vacuum portion of the map
as for tuning, i’ll have to retard my projet cause im having a code 8 on the sensor, too hot. ill have to seal my bung on the downpipe and use the stock one … im wondering how much is another bosh sensor.
i realized something today
Im using ecucontrol to read all the gauges , ECT, tps, boost, air/fuel MAP etc… i bought myselft an electronic boost controller (blitz)
all the vaccum lines are thigthen correctly but on ECUcontrol im reading about 10 psi and 18 inHg at idle. But on Ubderdata (which should be very accurate since people using this as a tuning tool) it reads 6 psi and maybe 19 inHg at idle. Also, my electronic controller reads about the same as uberdata. THe question is, should i trust ubderdata or ecucontrol for my boost reading ?? also, does anybody have another software that allow MAP readings to be displayed on a laptop ?
thank you
i answered my questions myself…
i spiked at 18 psi, but this is according to ECUCONTROL
beware at these readings, cause my MAP is stock, shouldnt go above 12-13 psi. Uberdata is much more reliable, which goes to 10 psi in my case.