I have a set of Skunk2 upper control arms that were made for 88-91 Civic/CRX, and it was also said that it can be used for 90-93 Integras. Now it says its coming soon for our cars. Is their any differences on the Skunk2 Upper Control Arms from the 88-91 Civic/CRX to our STOCK Upper Control Arms. When I look at it, it seems the same. :bored:
Also, would you guys consider using SPACERS to adjust the camber? I drive my car everyday and my tires lasted me for 1.5 half years. I did alignment every 2 weeks and tire rotation every month. Please proved any pics of how you did your spacers on your car.
And lastly, I was wondering if anyone can fill me in on the SPC Performance Adjustable Ball Joints. Are they any good for track use / daily Driving(I’m pretty sure they are good, but IDK) Give me some info and some pics.
Please feel free to provide me with any information along with pics so that I know what you guys are talking about along with other people on this thread know too. Their are a lot of confusions around here about this, and I want to get the RIGHT answer.
i use washers for the rear camber adjustment. seems like a “free” way to adjust it. have had no problems doing that. as for the front. i have the upper control arm type. have it adjust all the way corrected, but still have negative camber. my gs-r is sitting right above the tire. with no gap between the fender well and tire.
oh they upper control arm type camber kit for the front. like you have pictured. the back camber i use the washer as spacers. to space out the rear UCA.
It is said wirh the crx /civic 88/91 kit you have you get a neg. caster on the da do you have the print out from the aliment shop that you can post a pic? as I wold like to see how far out it puts the caster thanks
see how your caster is off? It seem it from the arms (from what I am told) you can get 86/89 accord radious rods an mod them to work an fix that caster problem I have them on my car. an set your front toe to zero…Who did the aliment? an two weeks is way to much I was going like ones a month till i got it dialed in as my car would wonder the road because of the caster
yea, my stearing is off too. I can’t keep my steering wheel straight. I have to tilt it to the left to go straight. I had wheel works do my alighnment. So my caster suppose to be zero. Would it be best to use my stock upper control arms?
I cant seem to find it I think it in the car that in the shop but here is what i think it was at
left front right front left rear right rear
-3.2 camber -3.4 1.1 camber 1.1
1.9 caster 1.9 0.6 caster 0.6
0.0 toe 0.0
I had mine done at two different wheel works an walnut creek did the best like I said it took a long time to get it done right I say go to walnut creek as you have a year on the aliment
Looking at the pics you have posted your right rear toe is out I would say replace the trailing arm bushing an that should fix that one as it did on my db1. Now the front your camber not really that bad makes me think you are not to low like around a 2 inch drop? Your caster being 2.8 on the left an cant see it clear looks like 3.0 on the right That is why you have to hold the wheel to the left to go stright you might have something bent in the front to be off like that was the car in an accident?
no car accident, but I have to say that my bushings are shot. I had wheel works and Daves Auto Repair shop check out my front suspension. Wheel Works told me that my suspension is okay, but my bushings will need replacing. Daves Auto Repair Shop said that my left kuckle needs to be replaced because where the tie rod conects to the left the kuckle has been tapered. I bought the kuckle so I am going to replace that. Bushings can affect the settings right? I notice that my front fright wheel is kindve set back. I look at other integras and some of them are like that too. Also when i reverse my car, then go foward, I here a sqeake noise like ruber against metal. So I have a feeling that everything is way off because of my bushings.
I would replace the bushings I bought most of mine thru rockauto.com but i did buy some thru acura as they were cheaper but I did inner an outer tie rods an my lower ball joints…I dont know if your front bushings would be that bad on the front tho here an idea maybe your radious rods up front need to be tighten you should try it as I did that on one car an it helped a lot…side note you should go to the meet in dublin this month i think it will be on the 16th
you could first do you still have the free aliment there (i know mine was good for a year)? if so I would take it off put the stock one on an see if it fixes it (the caster) before you buy need upper adjustable ball joints
That a tuff call if you put on the stock ones an pay for another aliment an it fixes the caster probley cool if not then it like a waste of money you know…As far as the dc kit I dont know you can always get the spc ball joint or the ingells one as I have the ingells on my db1 an I might use it on the blox kit I have to get more positive camler
the spc ones are decent. joint and boot is pretty good quality. unlike skunk2’s. plus, they actually work proper on your car. again, unlike the skunk2’s.
i have the spc 3* balljoints and have no complaints. they’ve been put through rough times. with about a 3.5" drop i was able to set the camber at -1.5* which is perfect for a street setup.
