Using full size radiator with cast manifold - *searched*

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
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I’ll be getting a cast manifold for my build, however, this ones flange isn’t rotated or tilted, it’s straight, and flat. I figure that this way, with the turbo rotated so the cold side is on the drivers side, it won’t be as close to the radiator as some manifolds make them.

I have an RS, so there’s no A/C in it, nor the extra fan which really is what eats up the room. So I’ve seen some people still runing full size radiators, so should this really be a problem? I’ll be using an E-bay cast manifold, as those aren’t problematic like the thin walled ram horns are. Here’s a link so you can see for yourself.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EMUSA-88-01-Honda-Civic-Turbo-Manifold-B16-B18-B20-/170693462577?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27be1f8a31

And please, I don’t need some lenghty talk about the horrors of E-Bay. It’s a cast manifold, and it’s only temporary to get the whole build started. I’ll slowly change to quality parts, and eventually go ram horn with a half size radiator. :wink:

Thanks in advance.

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I think 100% of people on this forum will tell you not to buy that anyway. Save your 61$ and get the “quality parts”, you will thank yourself later.

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Hmm, could have sworn I said not to mention that, as that’s not even the question. Cast manifolds don’t have to be expensive, “Brand name” companies to work. And anyway, will I have to worry about space if I have the turbo rotated so the cold side is on the drivers side?

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Aight let offer some insight to why when people rush to put a setup together using cheap shit(yes its cast but it still applies) quality they end up fucking themselves more in the end…

#1 wastegate placement is the worse

#2 w/e coating that is on that “cast” manifold curious to see that one.

#3 In cramped da bay what’s the really point if ur gonna change the setup anyway(hotside piping,downpipe and dumptube)

#4 with the stock crossmember good luck.
I can go into more details but,

Not into typing a lengthy response on my phone ,so in short its not so much about the money but the time thats gonna be wasted…there’s a reason for roads less traveled, save for a quality ramhorn and half size

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Well I already decided against that manifold for the reasons you said. I never noticed the wastegate placement.

So I’m getting a standard cast manifold, no coating, and the wastegate placement is directly above the turbo, and all 4 runners point right into the wastegate, that way it’s not just running off one runner, and getting uneven pressure.

Reason I’m just going this route, is why the hell pay 280 (215+ excuse me) or whatever Blox is asking for their cast manifold, when I can get one that’s gonna work not all that worse, for way less? And you’re automatically assuming that everything that I’m using is going to be cheap, which it isn’t. I just found a good deal, so why not?

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Skunk2garage sells a turbo cast Mani that I am currently running with a Garrett t3 and I have about a half inch of clearance between the turbo and radiator and my fans are mounted in front of the rad

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Hey, thanks for the reply. Which way do you have your turbo facing? Pics would be the easiest, but I can visualize quite well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-01-Honda-Civic-Turbo-Manifold-B16-B18-B20-/290605950183?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a976e4e7

This is what I’m leaning more towards now. Wastegate placement is perfect, and the ports look to be very smooth. My only concern is that perhaps, this might sit the turbo too close to the engine, so much that it might not even clear.

Anyone’s thoughts on the fitment would be really helpful, thanks.

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Looking at the one that you just posted, you might have some issues. It just looks like the shape is weird. Honestly I think most people who have built setups will tell that the headache is not worth it even if the material is “just as good”. What do you do when you try to bolt it all up and realize it’s some ridiculous design that won’t work? Good luck reselling it…waste of money ya know? It seems like you are just starting out with Turbo but most people would probably agree that cheaper parts really only make it worse. It takes a decent amount of time and effort to build a turbo setup so to put all the effort into something cheap, crappy and temporary will make you regret it later. You might end up spending twice as much and not be able to resell anything. Spoolin has a nice cast manifold that is pretty cheap. I mean you could prob keep that forever, never worry about it and it is guaranteed to fit.

http://www.spoolinperformance.com/bseries-cast-turbo-manifold-p-457.html

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im running a blox manifold,im not oppose to you buying a replica its cheaper & basically the same jus a name and different price…

my assumption was if your looking at a $60 manifold what is the rest of your setup gonna look honestly can you blame me for that one lol. that was my point being on buying cheap stuff.

The blox manifold angles the compressor housing facing foward at angle towards the radiator.(in its natural state comp facing passenger side) to allow a/c with space for a downpipe.

Now the second manifold you posted is setup the same exact way, notice the angle on the flange?

your plan is to flip the turbo around, comp closer to the block, exhaust housing closer to rad,no room for a fan there(remember this is a DA). dont forget the dump tube now also…

with this setup your going to have to run atleast one pusher fan on the front of the rad.

oh and one more if your running a vtec head and you’ll need a an elbow for the wastegate

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im trying to save you the headaches i went threw PLEASE JUS SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY A WELL TOUGHT OUT KIT YOUR NOT THE FIRST ONE TO TURBO A DA.no offense

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Lol, I know plenty of people have. I know it’s worth it to go with parts that have RnD, but to me it’s if it works or not, not who’s name is on it.

And I was only going to flip the turbo if I needed to. I can have a downpipe made for it regardless, so I have no problem with it mounting the standard, normal way. Reason I looked at that manifold, is that it moves the turbo flange further away from the transmission, so you have more clearance, unlike how some have to grind away material. Now I’ve hear what you’re saying, and you’ve made your point. So now you can’t feel at fault if something goes wrong, which honestly, I can’t believe it will.
I installed a small Air Research Garrett on a friends 99 Si, and he had an equal length ebay manifold, and the wastegate flange snapped off. We replaced it with a generic cast unit, and been 2 years with no problems.

But anyway, I don’t have air conditioning, so I don’t have to worry about the other fan getting in the way. And if I have to, I’ll sell my stock radiator to my friend, and get an aluminum half size radiator. But back on track. You said that manifold was the same exact way. Same as what? First manifold I posted or Blox? Because it’s nothing like the first one. Proper wastegate placement, slightly rotates the turbo for compressor clearance, etc.

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Well thanks to the good 'ol, non hater fellas over at RHMT, I might be able to just grab myself a better quality, but used manifold for less. So dunno, we’ll see.

And I know it’s not for really the FI section, but a question if I may.

Car smoked a little. Blue, not white. Mainly after start up after it’s been sitting for the night. Cruising, it never smoked, but under heavy acceleration above a certain RPM it would. Wasn’t sure if it really could be the rings, because compression test dry showed around 190 for all cylinders, and the sleeve walls were perfect with no scoring at all.

Exchanged it with another used head I had. Smoked even more than before. Old head had hardly any resistance on the valve seals when I slid a valve in it and up and down.
Got new valve seals installed, and you can definitely tell that they’re doing their job now, as you actually feel the spring giving resistance when you first put them in, and then just general resistance going up and down.

So in a nut shell, head smoked, replaced with other head and smoked more. Dry compression test is around 190 for all. Smoke isn’t even. Almost all the time after I start up the car for the first time for sitting for 10 hours or so, sometimes less. Goes away after a bit and hardly any if none while just cruising around town. Get on it hard and it smokes like a bastard.

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I meant comparison to the second one posted to my blox. My bad here’s pic of my setup for reference
Had to do a lot of grinding for this one.

3" vband downpipe just enough clearance

Clearance between my halfsize and comp housing.

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Ah, thank you for the image. So basically, it looks like it might fit with a stock radiator. I mean I don’t see why it’s impossible, as others have turbo setups in our cars with stock full size rads. You don’t have an up top view of the setup do you? That way I’d be able to see the orientation of the turbo, placement of the turbo flange, etc.

Thanks in advance.

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Trial and error, I built a $300 turbo kit using local U-Pull-It yard, Ebay and Craigslist! I got a Ram Horn for $30. I have had to weld it many times. I am sure the casted manifold will serve you fine. Buying other peoples abandoned parts can sometimes score you high quality parts on the cheap. However, to answer you question, I converted to a Civic half radator for cheap and it is not hard to do. I got a cheap Ebay “Racing” radator for $60 shiped to my door, Harbor Freigth spot weild cutter for $3, and Self Tapping Metal screws from Lowes $2. Ebay is my friend! I know that I am taking chances, but I have come out on top for most of my build.

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Right, I know everyone says that it’s all hit or miss. And I’m just trying to have a little fun with my stock engine before I change it out. I’m not looking to push the stock internals to their limits. I’ll only be shooting for around 200whp or a bit more. Hell, that’s twice the whp the B18A makes, so I’ll be more than happy with that. Besides, I have a B16 that’s built to handle up to 450 with no problems as long as the tune is spot on. But that’s when I come back from Cali. I’ll be doing it better that round. Tial, Garrett (or a Holset) half size radiator, OBD-1 conversion and tuned on Hondata.

However, for now, I’ll just be doing what I’m doing.

Thanks for the input. And does anyone have any pics of full size rad setups? I’m running a stock radiator, so that gives me a tad more room than lets say a 3 core radiator. But as you said, if I have to, I’ll just go grab a heap hapf size aluminum rad off ebay. Two of my friends are using them and they work just as intended.

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There are some great quality cast manifold in the market, InLine Pro being one of them, what you posted not so much!
What I don’t think most people understand is the fitment and customization it takes to make things work with EACH and EVERY turbo manifold. Items such as the down pipe, the oil drain, the feed line, the intercooler piping etc. These are things that you are going to have to change once you get a new manifold.

Your idea and product of choice are a waste of time and money, no sense in doing things over and over again for no reason. Save your time and money and just wait and do it right!

As for the radiator question, they do make some manifolds that will work in our chassis with a full core rad however I haven’t seen many and don’t know which way to point you, Spoolin Performance maybe.
There really have been no issues with people running 1/2 core civic rads so I see no need to run the full core radiator, it will just make things that much worse to fit and work on.

Good luck!

Here is a shot of my bay, it’s clear to see I HAD to go with a 1/2 core radiator for wastegate and fitment issues:

200314_10150123599878070_588768069_6409520_4001016_n.jpg
200314_10150123599878070_588768069_6409520_4001016_n.jpg720×407 79.8 KB

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Yes Mother, you’re right and I should have known better. You’re older and much wiser than I, for I am a child and know nothing of the world.

Anyway, look man I personally think that making your own pieces, or modding other ones to fit, just makes one persons car stand out from another. I don’t know about you, but I have no problem cutting up something to make it fit, or just make my own pieces. It’s more fun that way. :wink:

But DAYUM! I love how people just come in and get all “spend more money and do it right” rather than be positive and say go for it, but you might have to do a bit of cutting and modifying to get it to fit. This hobby used to be about being original, and getting the best bang for your buck. Now it’s all about spending that money on some JDM dodad, and high name, high dollar this. I suppose I come from the old school way of thinking. If you want something done right, do it yourself. Shit, I can buy the material and make a stainless steel Log manifold for less than even the E-Bay cast units, and make a downpipe for less than what you probably paid for your wastegate. AND IT WOULD NEVER BREAK.

But then again, it won’t say Full Race on it or something like that, but at least I can take pride in something I made.

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[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2230153]Yes Mother, you’re right and I should have known better. You’re older and much wiser than I, for I am a child and know nothing of the world.
Anyway, look man I personally think that making your own pieces, or modding other ones to fit, just makes one persons car stand out from another. I don’t know about you, but I have no problem cutting up something to make it fit, or just make my own pieces. It’s more fun that way. :wink:
But DAYUM! I love how people just come in and get all “spend more money and do it right” rather than be positive and say go for it, but you might have to do a bit of cutting and modifying to get it to fit. This hobby used to be about being original, and getting the best bang for your buck. Now it’s all about spending that money on some JDM dodad, and high name, high dollar this. I suppose I come from the old school way of thinking. If you want something done right, do it yourself. Shit, I can buy the material and make a stainless steel Log manifold for less than even the E-Bay cast units, and make a downpipe for less than what you probably paid for your wastegate. AND IT WOULD NEVER BREAK.

But then again, it won’t say Full Race on it or something like that, but at least I can take pride in something I made.[/QUOTE]

I didn’t equate to spending money as doing it right but why buy some junk, jagged on the inside of the cast manifold that will most likely cause more problems to save a few bucks? I was also saying how doing it time and time again will leave the car down more, less time to enjoy it while your redoing parts you could have be done with in the first place.

Your rant really shows your ignorance and how much you really do need to learn… DO tell what exactly is this old school you speak of?

Actually you buying stainless steel and making a manifold would be a tubular log and yes those break quite easily.

It’s funny how you throw out these ASSumptions as well about stuff on my car, the work in it, etc. I’ve had my car for 10 years and put in the wrench and fab time, in that time I’ve learned some things. Of which I was trying to pass on to you and help you out.

fyi, my WG is a Tial 44 that I paid $200 for used because it is the best unit out there IMO. Why settle for less? Give your idea a try and let us know how it turns out!:goyou:

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[QUOTE=mattb16teg;2230159]I didn’t equate to spending money as doing it right but why buy some junk, jagged on the inside of the cast manifold that will most likely cause more problems to save a few bucks? I was also saying how doing it time and time again will leave the car down more, less time to enjoy it while your redoing parts you could have be done with in the first place.

Your rant really shows your ignorance and how much you really do need to learn… DO tell what exactly is this old school you speak of?

Actually you buying stainless steel and making a manifold would be a tubular log and yes those break quite easily.

It’s funny how you throw out these ASSumptions as well about stuff on my car, the work in it, etc. I’ve had my car for 10 years and put in the wrench and fab time, in that time I’ve learned some things. Of which I was trying to pass on to you and help you out.

fyi, my WG is a Tial 44 that I paid $200 for used because it is the best unit out there IMO. Why settle for less? Give your idea a try and let us know how it turns out!:goyou:[/QUOTE]

Oh, I’m not doubting the quality of name brand parts. Most of the time the money is because of better quality materials and RnD. My assumption was based only off your comment. You made it sound as if having to modify parts to get them to fit is a bad thing. I just don’t mind it is all. I realize things will have to be changed around if I change manifolds, that’s not a problem. And downtime doesn’t bother me as I have other things to do to utilize my time.

And what I mean by a more old school way of thinking, is that… if you have the skill, patience, and time, why not just make something yourself? Now granted, I can’t exactly make a turbo or wastegate and what have you, but things like exhausts, intercooler piping, downpipes, etc, that’s not a problem. Remember, you’re the one that said, “What I don’t think most people understand is the fitment and customization it takes to make things work with EACH and EVERY turbo manifold.” Which sounds like you making an assumption that I don’t know anything, as well as capatalizing the ASS in assumption, very mature. Yes, I know these manifolds are cheap. Yes, I know if I change to a different one, the orientation will be changed and I’ll have to modify my downpipe, and probably one single piece of intercooler pipe. I used to have a 700 dollar Neukin manifold about 6 years ago, now THAT was a nice piece, but I don’t have that kind of money to spend right now, and I don’t feel like waiting. =P

But you’re welcome to your opinions, and most of what you said is true, however. Don’t you dare begin to tell me what I should or shouldn’t do with my own time and money, as I wouldn’t dare tell you what to do.

And FYI, try to find one assumption I made about your car in my post. I also never called you names, besides being sarcastic and calling you “Mommy” which was well deserved as you were telling me what to do. And if you read I said, “I don’t know about you, but I have no problem… etc.” That’s not me saying that you don’t do your own work, that is me saying that I will not make assumptions, but I myself have no problem modifying things if I have to.

But yet I’m the immature one.