o.k ive been searchin this for a cpl of days now and i still cant fix the problem… i look at all the other thrads started on this subject and tried everything. hat i could think of… my prob is… i start the car and 1st of all it has trouble starting the 1st time… when it does turn on it turns right off… when i turn it back on then it idles like at 200 really really low sometimes it stays on and sometimes it juss falls and turns off…i tried driving the car like that and it revs fine while driving but when i come to a stop it juss dies… i know this could be something really silly but it’s taken me 4 days and i still cant figure this one out so i need some help…
3-bar map sensor has been tested
vaccum lines are correct and not leaking
TB gasket- no leaks
no FITV/ I have a blox manifold.
cleaned IACV and made shure it has been properly pluged in…
TPS is plugged in…
NO- check engine light.
are there any fuses inside or outside the car that shoud check or maybe a relay??
my car is turbo and my vacumm reads between 10&14 dont know if that’s how it should be… can someone tell me what your vacumm reads at idle… any suggestions to my problem… ive been trying to fix this for 4 days now and i cant figure it out. thanks…
o.k i think i narrowed it down to what it could be… it’s either my distributor or the valve on the brake booster…
can some 1 do me a favor and maybe just switch the brake booster valve to the opposite side that it is on and tell me if the car idles normal???
i recently removed the valve and im not sure if i connected it right… i may have connected it backwards… and that’s what causing my idle problems… since iv’e checked every other thing already…
this would really help me since i am troubleshooting and it would help if i see how another G2 reacts…
im at work right now si i cant go home and try it my self… but if some1 could juss take 1 min to do that it would be really helpfull… since ive been trying to fix this for days now… someone give me a hand and try that for me and tell me if the car idles like shit…
What are you using to tune? And has the car run properly yet with the 3 Bar MAP? I’ve tried to run a 3 Bar with uberdata several times and we can’t get it to run. The symptoms sound just like yours too.
my car ran perfectly with the 3bar… like i said all that is different now is that i have a new turbo and a blox manifold… but i thing my prob is something to do with the brake booster valve… because when i remove the brake cooster hose from the manifold the car idles steady at 1300rpm’s… check your pigtail on the 3bar make sure it’s hooked up correctly…
has anyone seen if the car runs different or idles different with the brake booster valve backwards… can someone try thi please it only takes a min… you dont even need tools to do this you can just pull it apprt with hands… it would be really helpfull…!!! im juss trying to trouble shoot here… somebady gimme a hand and try it… and let me know if the car idles different… anybody… thanks…!!
instead of waiting for someone to flip there check valve, why dont you just flip yours and see if it runs normal… and just to make sure, the valve has a E on it and that is the side that goes to the engine
and about the blox manifold on your other post, we are running it on my boss’s drag car, boosting fine on 20 pound, it shouldnt be a problem unless you have a defective one or it’s not Tq down.
dont forget to check your timing and your idle control valve
new manifold… prolly gasket issue.
when the car is running stomp the brake pedal and watch the vaccum (boost gauge) decrease and then go up again… thats one way to know if shes working or not…
guys thanks for the help but my problem is not solved yet… i reversed the brake booster valve the way it should be and still nothing… ,my car turns on and suddenly dies… now what i have noticed is that if i remove the brake booster hose from the intake mani my car idles fine @ 2k or so… but when i hook it back up to the booster with the valve the car wants to die like if the booster is not allowing it to suck enough air… and again i thought that might be because of the valve being backwards since it’s a 1 way valve but now its correct and still having the prob… my question now is could it be that my brake booster is blocked off or cloged inside somehow cause that’s honestly the only thing that comes to mind… i dont know what else to troubleshoot…
brake boosters leak/ break seen it… o and i didnt read all but is it a low lopy idle or just Low? how low? buy a 25$ mighty Vac and test the brake booster…
it cant be the brake booster. your car is low on idle either because the icv is not allow enough air in, timing or something along the lines of that, by unplugging the booster your simply allowing more air to enter keeping the motor alive. try starting your car with your foot on the gas, i bet it’ll do the samething as unplugging the booster line. i had a problem like this with a costumer, it was the throttle body.
The booster is leaking vaccum causing the motor to idle up. But my guess is something with the turbo setup (low end turbo lag?) is keeping it from idling high enough to makeup the diffrence.
Simple check to know if its a vaccum leak.
Let the car run untill warm.
Turn the car off.
30seconds later press the brake pedal.
If you still has power brakes, no leak. If you dont, theres definately a vaccum leak somewhere on the car.
open the idle bleed screw, just mark it with a paint marker soo i tan be put back perfectly… its ghetto but itll work check the Iac counts maybe its completly closed off…
im runnin crome on my jdm gsr turbo da. it also idled real low and would even turn off sometimes, my tuner and I had to turn the idle up to 1200 rpms on the chip so that it would idle at like 700 rpms.
maybe you could provide a picture of the IM, and TB. others may beable to look at how everything is hooked up… i have a few ideas but, they would not be valid without information, or a picture…
Should be 18-22 InHg…you obviously know you should be pulling much more vacuum.
Does your car run normal except when it is idling…I would guess no.
Have you done a compression or leak down test?
Have your valves been adjusted?
Do you have 4 million T’s in your vacuum lines?
Give the Map sensor its own vacuum source and T your guage in with that to see if that changes anything…