could a slipping clutch cause vibration? i believe my clutch is going out, it slips fairly easily. but never thought that would have an effect as far as a vibration or wobble goes. being that all my problems are ONLY under load, mostly in 3,4,5 gear. i was asking because sometimes i can purposley slip the clutch and give it throttle, it goes away for like 5 seconds…
my car is possessed i swear. last few nights the low beam bulb on the pass. side has been flicking on and off at random. but it’s fine everytime i actually park and check it. the wiring is tight and the bulbs look fine. fucking second gen…:crazy:
LMAO, i was reading all the problems everyone has. I changed my axles a couple weeks ago and had a vibration probalem on my driver’s side. I couldn’t figure it out. I also have to replace my calipers pretty soon. Well 3 days ago, i notice more and moreo vibration from the left side. Til Saturday morning, I noticed a difference in my clutch feel from the pedal and where it was engaging. Well, I was on my way to work. I stopped at a light and had trouble getting it out of gear and into gears. My car was stuck in neutral, running at a stop light. So i ended up pushing it into the gas station that was right there byself. Turned it off and was able to move into and out of gears. I was able to start my car so i figured the clutch cable was still in tact. I ended up starting my car off in 2nd gear and driving it home so i can bus it to work. My friends says its my clutch. I honestly don’t know. I have to do a transmission swap and get a new clutch anyways so we’ll see what resolves the issues.
I’ve had quite a bit of clutch chatter in mine, not sure if it’s related or not. I’m going to do axles again and if that doesn’t help I’m going to part the car out.:mad:
aftermarket clutches can cause this problem, but it is usually not a defect in the clutch. aftermarket clutches have much stiffer damper springs in them. the damper spring is supposed to reduce the torsional vibration from the engine, stiffer ones reduce the vibration dampening effect. especially on puck style disks, because they usually don’t have any damper springs at all. this extra vibration is transmitted to the motor mounts. old worn out motor mounts can’t handle it. even new stock mounts may not eliminate the vibration. i am currently having this problem and have new left and front mounts installed and a new rear on the way along with the energy suspension inserts. this should get rid of it, i’ll let you know if it does.
as far as a clutch that is installed wrong, i highly doubt this would be a problem, because it is a pretty simple replacement procedure and isn’t easy to screw up. it is hard to misalign a clutch, because the tranny won’t line up right to install if the clutch is misaligned. and the clutch will align itself once you press the pedal in anyway.
i have recently graduated from a honda training facility, so i do know a bit about how a honda operates.
the axles can cause this problem also, but it is rare and if you buy new axles and it goes away temporarily then comes back. it probably isn’t the axles, just having new stiff axles can reduce the vibration because they kind of help hold the engine stiffer while you are on the gas, until they wear in.
an oil leak that creaps down onto the clutch or flywheel can cause this problem too.
then of course there is the possibility that your castor is out on your alignment, this can also cause a torque sensitive vibration. this usually only happens if something is bent or if you lower your car and don’t do anything to adjust the castor. good alignment kits compensate for this, otherwise, castor is adjustable on these cars.
Caster is not adjustable on 90-93 Integras. You can sort-of adjust caster with a front camber kit, but there aren’t any good “caster kits” for our cars. You can modify an old Accord (IIRC) adjustable radius rod to fit, but it’s not the right way to do it. The lower control arm on our suspension is supposed to stay in the same place more or less.
About caster causing a vibration… I’m not sure how that will cause a vibration on acceleration.
Also, your clutch theory doesn’t make sense to me. My vibration happens under load from 25-45mph, regardless of the gear it’s in. I’ve replaced the tie rods, motor mounts (went with Innovative Urethane mounts) and axles. The vibration went away partially but came back, so I’m going to try axles again. My clutch (Exedy Stage 1 Organic) is a few years old and hasn’t ever caused problems before. Also, if the clutch caused the vibration, the vibration would be engine RPM dependant, not wheel speed dependant. When engaged, the clutch always has the same rotational speed as the engine.
Theory - i think anything other than OEM Honda axles is whats causing the problem. i bought new GCK axles like 2 weeks ago, and one is bad already. it was OK for like 3 days and started vibrating. it gets more loose every few days i check it. (by hand, wiggles up/down/side/side). and the vibration is getting worse. and further proof - my buddy has a 99 EM1 which had oem axles with RIPPED boots that NEVER caused any kind of problems. last week we put new non-oem axles and his car feels like mine does now, just not as bad. and his is progressively getting worse. maybe its just the fact that almost all axles other than RAXLES or OEM do not have the rubber balancer on the shaft… lowered car, no balance may eat up the joints. fuckifiknow.
my friend has one good dam suggestion, wheel bearings!!!
I’ve noticed that my rim gets hot on the front driver side as of lately and it has the same symptons as when my rear wheel bearings went on me. I am going to change it this weekend and see. I got a new ACT stage 1 clutch and flywheel in my car now, same vibration on left side.
[QUOTE=chsscott;1684075]Caster is not adjustable on 90-93 Integras.
Also, your clutch theory doesn’t make sense to me. My vibration happens under load from 25-45mph, regardless of the gear it’s in. I’ve replaced the tie rods, motor mounts (went with Innovative Urethane mounts) and axles. The vibration went away partially but came back, so I’m going to try axles again. My clutch (Exedy Stage 1 Organic) is a few years old and hasn’t ever caused problems before. Also, if the clutch caused the vibration, the vibration would be engine RPM dependant, not wheel speed dependant. When engaged, the clutch always has the same rotational speed as the engine.[/QUOTE]
i just graduated from a honda training program. and i have adjusted the castor on my 92 gs. the radius rod was adjustable, it works just like a tie rod adjustment. there is a slight posibility that it is not the stock rod for that car, but as far as i know it’s stock. positive castor causes torque ramp up, which produces a wheel hop on acceleration.
also… the clutch does not always move the same speed of the engine. there is a torsional vibration that can be caused, because the engine has four points at which it speeds up as the pistons are in their power stroke, and slows down until the next power stroke. the wheels need to be a constant speed, so the springs in the clutch compress and absorb each power stroke acceleration. so at these times, there is a difference in speed between clutch and engine. if the springs aren’t absorbing this, then the only other thing to absorb it is the motor mount. this is how you can have a bad vibration feeding through the motor mount into the frame shaking everything all to hell. as far as it being vehicle speed dependant, well… that is a little harder to explain. basicly, the torque transmitted back from the wheels will decrease as you go faster. therefore, the torque feeding back into the engine will decrease at higher speeds. i am not going to delve into the full explanation of how this works, because honestly, i understand the basic theory, but was never taught the whole reasoning because it was not important to go into that much depth in the training program.
Radius rods are NOT NOT NOT NOT adjustable on the 90-93 Integras. If you mean you tightened your radius rods, that just means they were loose to begin with. Caster isn’t specifically adjustable on the DA, trust me.
Here’s the factory service manual picture of the front radius rod.
No adjustment.
The vibration is only wheel speed dependant. The vibration doesn’t change in different gears. Using your theory, the vibration would change with respect to what gear the car is in.
[QUOTE=shoppingcart003;1684538]my friend has one good dam suggestion, wheel bearings!!!
I’ve noticed that my rim gets hot on the front driver side as of lately and it has the same symptons as when my rear wheel bearings went on me. I am going to change it this weekend and see. I got a new ACT stage 1 clutch and flywheel in my car now, same vibration on left side.
i’ll keep you guys posted.[/QUOTE]
I thought about wheel bearings also, but I just can’t imagine why it would only vibrate on acceleration.
i think mine may be inner tie rod + alignment + axle now. i notice now that i have wandering steering at higher speeds, but it’s once i reach that point to where the vibration stops. or if i’m just cruising at a low speed, it wanders slightly. i’ve always checked my bj’s & tie rods all that crap when i’m under the car but i guess i wasnt putting enough force on it. the other day i had the car jacked up, and with the passenger side front wheel i can make it pop in and out…? when i pull the front out and push the back in(grabbing the tire itself, like grabbing a clock at 9 and 3) but it takes some force and its a ‘pop’ in and gets popped back out because i’m not strong enough to hold it there.
that make any sense? sound like a inner tie rod?
and i do get the infamous click or pop upon accel/decel and its dependant on throttle position. also upon accel/decel the car tends to drift left on accel and right on decel. just taking my foot on and off the gas can cause the car to go from one side of the lane i’m in to the other side.
[QUOTE=chsscott;1685644]Radius rods are NOT NOT NOT NOT adjustable on the 90-93 Integras. If you mean you tightened your radius rods, that just means they were loose to begin with. Caster isn’t specifically adjustable on the DA, trust me.
Here’s the factory service manual picture of the front radius rod.
No adjustment.
The vibration is only wheel speed dependant. The vibration doesn’t change in different gears. Using your theory, the vibration would change with respect to what gear the car is in.[/QUOTE]
ok… under closer inspection, it appears that the rod on mine is not the original and has been modified, plus the bushing in the front looks pretty new. but, i didn’t say the vibration would change from different gear ratios. what i mean is that the faster the tires are spinning, the less torque will be transferred back up the drivetrain from the torque of the tire pulling the car. it has nothing to do with the torque the engine puts out or the transfer of that torque to the wheel. only the torque coming back from the wheels.
anyway, i’m done arguing. i admit i was wrong on the tie rod, only because this car had been modified a little bit before i got it, but my other statements are sound.
damn I’m having a horrible vibration after changing axles and ball joints. I thought it was the loose tire rod end, but now I tightened it up and it didn’t go away. Still bad vibration. I wanted to try the axle again, but I don’t really know if that is the problem. my rack and pinion sounds funny when shaking the wheel. ALso hear a click while turning. I heard it before the axle was bad and after changing it. Hell I don’t know, but I am very aggravated by this.
Bad inner or outer tie rods will give you play in the 3 and 9 oclock position when grabbing the mounted tire. They are fairly cheap, but you will probably need an alignment after install, it is hard to rely on counting the threads for the adjustment. If you have play in the wheel everywhere, you might have a bad wheel bearing. If you don’t have experience with suspensions, you could go to an alignment shop for a diagnosis, then fix the problem yourself.
yeah I think next time I will get some decent axles. Right now though, I just want it to ride without shaking. I really think it’s the inner tire rod, but I’ll be changing it out tomorrow to see. It doesn’t have too much play in the wheel, but I can definently hear some noise coming from the inner joint area. We’ll see when I take the boot off.
