Just want to have a few opinions basing on my needs…
I just got a set of Wiseco pisotns, 81.5mm.
Keeping stock rod/sleeve.
Now its time for head.
In terms of torque and HP, i don’t think this is much worth a vtec head keeping in mind the block would not like to rev pass 7-7.5k. But im pretty sure this is so much fun driving a vtec turbo car…
Anyone experienced a bult/LS vs LsVtec setup ?
it is worth it, but I would not use the stock rods. what are your power goals.
300whp is the maximum i wanna go
if you use arp rod bolts in your stock rods you will be fine. the rod bolts on ls rods are the weak link. if you put in a main gurdle you could rev to 8 or 8.5.
the best way to make power is getting air in the motor an out. a vtec head will out flow a an ls head bigtime plus you have vtec. a vtec head will also raise your cp in return more tq an power. if it was me i would bolt a stock b16 head on and for get dumping all the money in building an ls head. hope this help later
right, b16 was the way i wanna go, i just wanted to hear it from someone else’s mouth !
im pretty sure you need aftermarket rods if you are running aftermarket pistons. so you would not use the stock rods. eagle makes some nice rods. they even come with arp rod bolts already in it.
why someone would upgrade to forged pistons but keep the stock shit rods is completely beyond me.
stock LS bottom end can hold up really good, its all in the tune and how well you maintain it, check out evans-tunning he has some completely stock blocks making amazing power(like 450hp amazing). I had my ls/vtec on 75 shot of nitrous going to 8500 everytime I raced for a year no problem. alot of my friends boost there LS and b20 on stock bottom ends no problem. and b16 head is way more efficient and fun than a ls head. vtec heads get the job done alot quicker. (Efficiency)
pitt, while i don’t doubt the validity of your statement, you need to re-read his plans–specifically the part where he mentions his desire to use forged pistons on stock rods.
if it was all stock with ARP bolts, sure. but the forged piston/cast rod combo isn’t really all that compatible, what with the inherently different wrist pin engineering.
so your saying the 2 different materials will cause me trouble ? IMO this is not like an aluminium screw on a cast hole, only the wrist pin is in contact with the rod.
I’ve heard people saying the weak spot was the piston’s was its surroundings… ( i dont remember the name) this is why lots of them uses stock rod/forged piston combo, some shot peen the rods also…
this is what i’ve head, never really experienced it
it has absolutely nothing to do with metal differences, although that can/will cause some issues.
it has everything to do with your complete lack of reading comprehension, though.
go back and read my posts again. the answer is in there, you just can’t seem to see it yet.
humm… wrist pin could be the weak link ?? it came with the pistons i assume this is solid material, like the pistons are. i dont get your point, please explain
I’ve heard so much : rings land will fail, get pistons, stock rod holds 400hps…
i’ll run them in 2008 and see if i get my power/reliability goal. I thrust what i see, i ran an XS power turbo/manifold with minor issues for 2 years now
if your using aftermarket pistons you NEED aftermarket rods. aftermarket pistons dont not fit on stock rods.
this i didnt know
these i received are 21mm diameter ( 0.827’’)
whats stock spec
If you got pistons might as well get rods and done deal…rods are really cheap for the reliability they offer. why not get them? And keep your mind at ease.
its so simple to make stock rods fit after market pistons we do it all the time.
theres nothing wrong with stock rods at all. if they where not reliable i dont think Honda would let you twist a motor to 8 or 8.5 stock. an ls rod will to the same but just put better rod bolts in the rods like APR. if you are within hp handling spec of a stock rod then use them y go and spend more $$ when its not needed. yes eagle rods are nice but they also are a heavy rod so it will slow the rotating mass down that means less power. so if he going with a budget built than he can make a little more powder with a lighter rod.
WOW, how not informative at all. For the record typeR yes you can use stock rods, but how well they hold up in the long run is beyond me. Eagle rods heavy? do you know what heavy is? I guess lighter cast rods on a turbocharged engine are good. LS’s werent meant to rev to 8 or 8.5K with stock rods!!! theres alot more to them then the rod bolts!! Research more!!!
EAGLE rods are by far the cheapest priced rods out there next to stock. it’s up to you if you use stock or not. I just want you to post how it holds up to whatever your power goals so we can all learn from this.
as far as power goal goes, i was at 300whp maximum, this means probably reving to 7.5k on 15 psi ? i’ve followed a lot of discussion talking about R/S ratio and such, therefore my intention is really not to go over 7.5k (stock limit is set a 7.1 i think ?). If stock rod are fine, well i’m goin to used em, since i also need fuel pump, bearings, arp bolts, new tires and probably better suspension. 300$ for a set of rod that i may not need is something i really want to think about…
thanks for the input guys
[QUOTE=smokeintegra;1773191]WOW, how not informative at all. For the record typeR yes you can use stock rods, but how well they hold up in the long run is beyond me. Eagle rods heavy? do you know what heavy is? I guess lighter cast rods on a turbocharged engine are good. LS’s werent meant to rev to 8 or 8.5K with stock rods!!! theres alot more to them then the rod bolts!! Research more!!!
EAGLE rods are by far the cheapest priced rods out there next to stock. it’s up to you if you use stock or not. I just want you to post how it holds up to whatever your power goals so we can all learn from this.[/QUOTE
if he is not sure what head to use out of vtec or ls and wanting to use stock rods. sounds to me like he might not want to do a fully built motor. i have done many Na an turbo set ups before. i never said eagle makes bad rods or not to use them. but he sounds like he wants to do a budget build. i have seen fully built motors with the best parts last 1 year an 3 years before rebuild. you can spend all you want in a motor and it may last 5 min or 3 years it all in how you treat it. i have seen a faulty toda cam snap in hafe. i have seen eagle rods snap on Na setups. i don’t care if you send a million dollars on rods its man made an can break of bad tuning or even something in the manufacturing of it. i had a bad rev valve just break off at the face of the valve at the stem and i had $6000 in that typer build with 200 miles on it now its a paper weight. i have built lsv motors on stock parts with Minor up grades last all year at the track spinning 9 grand. you can go big and still go home with a broke motor.