heres the one i mad earlier, i my GF rushed me to get hot wings. so i didnt have time to post it. because ABS is so damn hard to accommodate for, i’ve decided just to move it down all together.
yea, i noticed the flex at the front of the engine bay when i dynoed my car. i was like hmmm. Untill i was helping my friend work on his old bumble bee style camaro. and i saw it on his (they’ve been removed in this pic)
[QUOTE=Silchuki14;1778693]Cool!
One thing, some of Jdmb16b concept have bar on the front of the engine bay that link the shock tower to the upper radiator support. Any thougts about this??
I think the DA radiator support need to be strenghtened (sp?). Maybe we can gain stability or handling there.[/QUOTE]
the flex going on in the radiator support area is not occuring between it and the shock towers. there might be a twisting going on along the forward pointing, or “roll” axis if you can think of it as an airplane. that is almost certainly present and it exists all along the length of the car. you can completely stiffen the middle and rear of the car with a simple 4-6point rollcage (like the autopower im probably gonna buy). if you really want to make sure its as tight as possible you can get something like an x or a double z (em-racing) setup. on to the front… the side fender braces also assist in stablizing the car along that axis as the support the frame along that axis as well, on both sides at that. pat braced the front radiator support horrizontally to tie the very front of the frame together to finish the job. he is the only person ive ever seen do this. i refer back to his car a lot bc he has imho thoroughly braced the g2 chassis in all the areas we are discussing, and he did it first. i thought about bracing the front of the car like this but im not completely convinced that its worth adding the extra weight or clogging up valuable space in the intercooler area. if i were going to do it, i would probably do it like pat, as you cant get any simpler, or any more effective in that particular spot, than a straight line (bar). its the least weight possible to tie those two points together and more than enough in terms of strength. you can overengineer the shit out of that way to easily. imho the MOST beefy part of this 3-4 piece package should be the side fender braces. the v-links and the strut tower bar should be the smallest, lightest, yet sturdiest pieces possible. i already discussed the optional front piece.
jdmb16b-also a very nice design! simple and effective, with plenty of room to work around. look into abs removal. i did a writeup on it under my old name, turbogeekda6. the g2 abs sucks anyway and when it breaks its noisy. removal is easy so long as the motor is out. consider it bro! i think you will like non-abs with an abs mc a lot. have you or Silchuki thought about a location or a mounting solution for mounting the torque damper to the fenderwell… im pondering that at the moment.
this is my daily driver. i only take it to the track on weekends
so i have my wipers, ac, abs. the whole shebang, and im not planing on changing it
but no i have not thought about torque damper to firewall. unless you look at my designs earlier in the thread. but they were shot down as being “to heavy”
with it mounted to the tower it should be just as effective as the firewall. with a lot less weight.
but go ahead and show your design or what your aiming for
found this
^^ What’s special about it?? The bar??
I think the concept made here are just…better 
they are, i just wanted to show it
this thread is interesting. i hope something good comes out of it.
About the last pic JdmB16b posted. Look closely about the mounting plate.
Your thoughts? Now we have the bar, what’s about the mounting plate??
Something light, strong and easy to make.
Opinions?
MattyG2: Something will come out of it for sure. I’m painting my GSR wheels now, so I can’t start anything. Also, I’m not sure if I’ll do the front for the B-Series since I’m going K. I’ll see with the budget. Hope JDMb16b is making something soon.
i’ll try
im busy to
lets just make this perfect before we(I) make it.
i agree completely. thats the best way to do it imho. im just trying to figure out the best way to mount it. thats what i was sayin. i realized im gonna need to buy a damper and find a way to remount it. what do you think the best one on the market is? perhaps there are several good ones you could refer me to… i think we should take special note of which designs, if any, are mounted on the fenderwell like we are talking about doing.
check weaksauce-$90
optionsauto-spoon dampers like $200
thats EXACTLY what im talking about…
i checked out the weaksauce setup and it looks like a good unit that you would have to fab at most a few brackets for… if it comes with a bracket to mount on the engine then get the one for the civic because either one will be b-series. i found one setup done with an ingalls damper like that and it was kind of punkass, and weak looking. i think we can come up with somethin better! anyways, im tryptophallin’ asleep after gorging myself over the course of the day. i hope all you guys had a good holiday! goodnight…
thanks
yea, the reason i got spoon is because there the only one that made one to fit the b16b (CTR) i tried a one for a b16a and it didn’t fit right (just on the motor) but i’ll still have to make the other mount for the tower.
For myself, I’ll do the Bike Rear Shock Mod… 
If I need to upgrade, I’ll do it with a torque damper. I’ll make my braket to fit that things where Jdmb16b draw it.
i dont think either of you will be going wrong with your choices… i mean how much is there to really be gained from one torque damper to another. they will all be comparable weight. i need to do some research for sure to make sure that the civic one will fit. jdmb16b- can you send me some pics of how your tq damper is mounted on the engine? what is different about the ctr where it bolts up? is it on the intake, or the block? ive also heard that the avid racing torque mount will have about the same effect but at the expense of a harder motor mount transfering nvh to the chassis constantly. both the damper and the solid front mount both are constantly helping control motor motion, but the damper doesnt transfer nvh constantly, or as bad period. imho i think you are better off with the innovative mounts with the medium hardness and a damper. im using some place racing hard mounts and i still get a little bit of motor movement. thats why i want to switch to the setup i described. it will work better and feel better. even in an all out racecar thats appreciable!
al b series will fit, i just didnt know that at the time i bought it.
ok good. i was pretty sure it was the same. i thought i might have made an incorrect assumption there for a minute. i think we’ve got the front pretty well covered. crossmembers have been done, as have lower tie bars. the only area i can see room for improvement on is the lower tie. ive got full-race bars (installed) and a lower tie bar (cusco two point) which im currently not using as it interferes with the header ill be running until i go turbo. i dont think that a four point lower tie would be that big of a benefit as there arent too many forces bending the nose down, whereas there are many bending the nose up. if someone designed one that offered great ground and header clearance. id get the four point for that reason because none of the two point bars can say that. all of the four point bars are based off two point bars. all off the lower ties ive seen curve downward as well, when it could be as simple as a straight bar that would retain more ground clearance. does anyone else have any interest in this. perhaps icemans company could fab up something like this.
Someone want to do some of those mspaint looking mockups for inspiration, and I will see about making one. Same goes for this as does my tri bar, I will make the initial prototype, then need another car to perfect it.
It won’t be pretty but it will get the job done.
[QUOTE=operator207;1780532]Someone want to do some of those mspaint looking mockups for inspiration, and I will see about making one. Same goes for this as does my tri bar, I will make the initial prototype, then need another car to perfect it.
It won’t be pretty but it will get the job done.[/QUOTE]
i can do some mspaint mockups of what im talking about, but im telling you right now that “not-pretty” and functional isnt good enough, at least not for me. i respect your intiative and your work operator, so im in no way trying to put you down, but i am trying to establish a standard. if im going to spend money on something, i want it to look perfect, and very professional. i want the best materials used and pretty welds, with the engineering theory to back up the claims to function. i got that from my full race bars, autopower cage, neuspeed strut bar, and emr bars. they all look good and work well to boot. iceman says his fender braces wont disappoint, and i am eager to see them. the last thing i want to see anywhere on my car is square stock, the bars really need to be round to look good. cusco used an extruded piece of aluminium from what i can tell looking at my bar. i think a medium sized thick-well hollow tube will work well. the design shouldnt be radically different from a topical point of view of existing 4 point bars. just something designed with ground/header clearance in mind. man i need to get a welder…
Does anyone have a picture of how does the under front is done? So I can make something and a mockeups at the same time. Thanks